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Starting problem - One crank

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    Starting problem - One crank

    After realizing I had switched the alernator excite wire and the smallest wire on the starter (on/off wire i think?) now my car has power to the starter. When I took out the engine I did label the coils, but didn't label the sensors but I'm 97.9% sure I have them where they need to be after stealing my friend's E36 bentley.

    Now my car cranks only once. My question is why, my grounds are all hooked up, I replaced one that didn't look like it would last much longer, but still only one crank.

    Is this a sensor problem? Did I switch one? Could it be camshaft or crankshaft position sensor? It won't continually crank so it seems as if something is stopping it.

    Thank you, working a full week lately leaves me little time each day before I don't have much light to work on it.
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    #2
    Bueller.
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      #3
      Shitkakka, I have a feeling I didn't shave enough off the oil pan baffle. Shitkakka.
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        #4
        my friend accidently swapped the 2 little wires from the alt. and the starter on his e36. he tried starting it and nothing happened and then switched them back and got 1 crank and nothing. wound up being that the main relay under the dash got fried from those wires being switched.

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          #5
          Originally posted by mentaleeill
          my friend accidently swapped the 2 little wires from the alt. and the starter on his e36. he tried starting it and nothing happened and then switched them back and got 1 crank and nothing. wound up being that the main relay under the dash got fried from those wires being switched.
          Which relay? If you recall anymore of a description that would be great.
          One of the 3 main relays for the M/S5x? Or is it located still under the dash on the E30?

          I was gonna pull the engine today after work so please let me know.
          Last edited by DEV0 E30; 08-07-2006, 06:29 AM.
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            #6
            maybe it's hitting a bad tooth on either the starter or flywheel??

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              #7
              it was under the dash on his 1995 e36 m3. im not 100% on where it would be on the e30. it was not part of the engine harness which was the weird thing. the dealer called it a main relay and it was like 100 bux.

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                #8
                Just for reference for anyone with this future problem.

                I missed a centimeter of the oil pan baffle to shave.

                It shall never happen again.
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                  #9
                  Turns out I was wrong.

                  Flywheel was hitting the back of the motor not allowing the starter to spin the flywheel. I searched and saw Jason89i (I think) had this problem with an E Getrag 260, and an I flywheel/clutch(?). Well my transmission is from an I, but it was still resting on the block. I will get the half inch of material shaved in the future from the back, but it only needed a few MM of clearance so I got some 8.8 grade washers to sit behind the flywheel.

                  Added this post to remind you, to turn over the motor by hand!!!
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                    #10
                    thanks for the update. its always nice to see problems and solutions on the same page. it helps archive the solutions and makes it much easier for others to "search' for solutions!!!!

                    Originally posted by DEV0 E30 View Post
                    Turns out I was wrong.

                    Flywheel was hitting the back of the motor ....... I will get the half inch of material shaved in the future from the back,
                    sounds about right. shaving the flywheel or shaving the oil pan bolts are the only options. you should have no trouble with the "i" flywheel with the "i" getrag trans. i ran into trouble with the "i" flywheel with the "e" getrag trans.

                    Originally posted by DEV0 E30 View Post
                    ...... but it only needed a few MM of clearance so I got some 8.8 grade washers to sit behind the flywheel.
                    do not move the flywheel out. it will change the geometry of the fork to bearing to pressure plate dimensions. your clutch may not engage and you will have premature t/o bearing failure. it might also create a larger sheer force on the clutch bolts....(that part is speculation.)

                    cheers, jason
                    Last edited by Jason89i; 09-05-2006, 08:51 AM.

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                      #11
                      Jason,

                      You think it could really be that hazardous? I played with the clutch pedal after hooking it up and it feels ok. I was worried about the force, that's why I got the highest grade I could find. It's only a few milimeters. I'm certain I have an I flywheel, I transmission. Which confused me aswell when I read your post.

                      Again, I'm not sure why it decided to rest on the block now I drove the car for months before taking it apart, only reason it came off was because I busted my oil pan, and was replacing it. It appeared that the first time I took it off the bolts for the flywheel weren't to spec, loose. I vaguely remember a time when I drove the car that I felt a sort of rotating mass and heard it vaguely over my loud exhaust... it may have been the flywheel in retrospect.

                      Yes, I agree posting the solution will greatly add to what a forum is used for.

                      I haven't started it yet, I'm waiting to get new exhaust manifold gaskets and put my exhaust back on. Wish me luck.
                      Last edited by DEV0 E30; 09-05-2006, 01:57 PM.
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                        #12
                        i had a familiar problem with the starter not wanting to spin the flywheel. It turns out it was the crank pulley instead of the flywheel like Devon's. When i took off the A/C pulley off the crank pulley it made the bolts too long and it when through the pulley and into the block, which clamped the crank to the block so it was stuck. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=73824

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