m50 radiator hoses?

[loganhopeless]

Cant find a clear answer anywhere, so might as well post it here..

I'm in the middle of swapping in an m50b25 single vanos into my 88'. I'm going to be using the e36 radiator, so do I need to get all the hoses for the m50? Or use e30 hoses?

Also, do I NEED to convert to an electric fan? This is a budget swap.

Thanks.

[Yezus_Krys]

E36 Hoses. I've seen an S52-318is person and the guy had the stock fan on. I can't remember if he used S52 or M42 radiator but shockingly it all fit. I haven't concentrated on cooling system yet for my swap but I plan on using a 16" Spal efan.


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[mtech325]

I just finished up a similar swap into my 91 318 (m50 w/e36 radiator). Here's what I used for hoses:

-e36 m50 coolant/spider hose

-late model e30 m20 hose from the back of the head to the heater core (has correct bends to fit)

-e36 m50 head to throttle body warm port (I believe I cut a bit of length out of this hose)

-expansion tank hoses can be from stock late model m20 (overflow to radiator is pretty generic, while the larger hose feeding into bottom of overflow tank has right contours to fit best

-Lower radiator hose use NAPA part #8484 and cut it to fit (just a standard 90 degree radiator hose)

-Upper Radiator hose you can use a stock e36 m50 upper radiator hose, or NAPA part #8484 trimmed to fit


For the fan setup there's 3 options that I have seen:

-stock m20 fan & m20 fan clutch, but clearance is going to be tight! (to change serpentine belt requires radiator removal)

-e36 diesel fan & e36 fan clutch. This is a slightly better fit and pulls a lot of air, but also requires radiator removal to remove the fan & belt if needed.

-Electric fan conversion. This wasn't as tough as I would have thought. You remove the stock pusher aux. fan on the front of the car and salvage the resister and connector plug. Then you splice it on to the SPAL fan wires (just two of them. The fan sits in front of the radiator and I mounted mine to the actual core support so the radiator can be removed independently. This is the cleanest setup and allows for more room up front should you need to work on the front of the motor.

Here's the parts I purchased to get mine working:

FAN

SHROUD

BRACKETS (QTY 4)


e30 91/99 degree fan switch for radiator

In terms of price, the fan clutch style is a cheaper option if you have the parts, otherwise the electric fan option is more affordable if you're planning to buy everything brand new.


-Joey

[loganhopeless]

I just finished up a similar swap into my 91 318 (m50 w/e36 radiator). Here's what I used for hoses:

-e36 m50 coolant/spider hose

-late model e30 m20 hose from the back of the head to the heater core (has correct bends to fit)

-e36 m50 head to throttle body warm port (I believe I cut a bit of length out of this hose)

-expansion tank hoses can be from stock late model m20 (overflow to radiator is pretty generic, while the larger hose feeding into bottom of overflow tank has right contours to fit best

-Lower radiator hose use NAPA part #8484 and cut it to fit (just a standard 90 degree radiator hose)

-Upper Radiator hose you can use a stock e36 m50 upper radiator hose, or NAPA part #8484 trimmed to fit


For the fan setup there's 3 options that I have seen:

-stock m20 fan & m20 fan clutch, but clearance is going to be tight! (to change serpentine belt requires radiator removal)

-e36 diesel fan & e36 fan clutch. This is a slightly better fit and pulls a lot of air, but also requires radiator removal to remove the fan & belt if needed.

-Electric fan conversion. This wasn't as tough as I would have thought. You remove the stock pusher aux. fan on the front of the car and salvage the resister and connector plug. Then you splice it on to the SPAL fan wires (just two of them. The fan sits in front of the radiator and I mounted mine to the actual core support so the radiator can be removed independently. This is the cleanest setup and allows for more room up front should you need to work on the front of the motor.

Here's the parts I purchased to get mine working:

FAN

SHROUD

BRACKETS (QTY 4)


e30 91/99 degree fan switch for radiator

In terms of price, the fan clutch style is a cheaper option if you have the parts, otherwise the electric fan option is more affordable if you're planning to buy everything brand new.


-Joey

Thank you so much! Another question.. Do I NEED to buy a modified transmission brace? Because in videos that I watch, I see stock as well.

[pazi88]

Thank you so much! Another question.. Do I NEED to buy a modified transmission brace? Because in videos that I watch, I see stock as well.

It depends what gearbox you are running. ZF or Getrag from m50 engine and the stock brace is fine. If m20 gearbox, you need to have modified one (and also modify the shifter linkage).

[Yezus_Krys]

Yea my stock brace with S52+ZF fits fine. I bought the garagistic double forked linkage and a shifter arm delete kit from eBay. The ones from my M42 would've had me shifting from the back seat lol.


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[mtech325]

As everyone else has said, if you end up using the stock Getrag 260 from the e30, then you'll need a modified trans brace such as this, but a handful of people make them. I do advise that if you end up going with the stock e30 trans, that you drill the bell housing, otherwise you won't be able to pull the oil pan without removing the transmission since the rear bolts will be covered. Post #26 of this link will explain the situation here. If your 325 is a manual car, this is probably the most cost effective route.

If you are using the ZF trans, then the stock e30 trans brace works just fine. But you have to use the ZF driveshaft, guibo, slave cylinder, & shift linkage from an e36 328 manual or 4 bolt e36 M3 manual. This transmission is deemed to be a little stronger, but adds expense to your swap. The ZF is made for a 24v engine though, so everything bolts up and the oil pan can be removed as it normally would be.