S52 w/ AC cooling problems

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  • Strelok
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    The clutches are all going to be in the same position regardless of brand.


    ...and I don't know why you insist your car is running too hot. 195-205 is normal operating temp.



    If you want your car to run cooler than normal, you need a lower temp switch for the fan, and a cooler thermostat. Put an 80°c switch and matching thermostat and your car will run cooler (which is almost as bad as running too hot). Your ECU will leave the car in open loop which will give you poor mileage, it will run rich as the engine will always be in "warm up enrichment" mode unless you change the maps in your ECU.
    Should have clarified - I took some more readings, this time I actually brought the IR reader with me and got the car as hot as possible - AC on full blast in stop and go. Took a reading when it was near the red and it was close to 220. Those initial readings I took were in the garage right after a drive and I think it had started to cool a bit. I'm not comfortable with getting anywhere near 220.

    Originally posted by Mwishlist
    I run the same fan on the back side of the clutch. It's only close to the vanos at the top, I trimmed the blades where they were close to the vanos and have been running it for a few years now with no issue .
    I tried this and found it to be all up on the Vanos, I don't think a trim would help unfortunately. I'm currently planning to notch that tab on the radiator, I think that will clear things up for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mwishlist
    replied
    Originally posted by Strelok
    Alright, so I got the euro fan in the mail today and had no luck with fitment:



    The blades are fine the ring hits the top of the rad. I tried mounting it on the other side of the clutch but that pushed it into the front of the engine.

    Any suggestions? Is there a thinner clutch I can run? The one in the kit I got is "vemo" brand.

    Thanks!
    I run the same fan on the back side of the clutch. It's only close to the vanos at the top, I trimmed the blades where they were close to the vanos and have been running it for a few years now with no issue .

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Strelok
    Alright, so I got the euro fan in the mail today and had no luck with fitment:

    The blades are fine the ring hits the top of the rad. I tried mounting it on the other side of the clutch but that pushed it into the front of the engine.

    Any suggestions? Is there a thinner clutch I can run? The one in the kit I got is "vemo" brand.

    Thanks!




    It's my understanding that lower temp switches don't actually make the car run cooler? Considering the fact that my car can't even cool itself down to normal temps when I turn the AC off, I don't expect lower temp switches to help. I could be wrong though. Also, not sure what Portland summers are like but I have a feeling they're nothing like what we get in Atlanta

    The clutches are all going to be in the same position regardless of brand.


    ...and I don't know why you insist your car is running too hot. 195-205 is normal operating temp.



    If you want your car to run cooler than normal, you need a lower temp switch for the fan, and a cooler thermostat. Put an 80°c switch and matching thermostat and your car will run cooler (which is almost as bad as running too hot). Your ECU will leave the car in open loop which will give you poor mileage, it will run rich as the engine will always be in "warm up enrichment" mode unless you change the maps in your ECU.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30335i
    replied
    Originally posted by Strelok
    Alright, so I got the euro fan in the mail today and had no luck with fitment:



    The blades are fine the ring hits the top of the rad. I tried mounting it on the other side of the clutch but that pushed it into the front of the engine.

    Any suggestions? Is there a thinner clutch I can run? The one in the kit I got is "vemo" brand.

    Thanks!




    It's my understanding that lower temp switches don't actually make the car run cooler? Considering the fact that my car can't even cool itself down to normal temps when I turn the AC off, I don't expect lower temp switches to help. I could be wrong though. Also, not sure what Portland summers are like but I have a feeling they're nothing like what we get in Atlanta


    You need an earlier temp switch so it starts to cool the car earlier and make it more consistent. It’s easier to cool a car off earlier then when it’s almost too late. You know when you turn off a car it still gets hotter even when it’s off so you can kind of get the idea when the fan turns on, it doesn’t cool it off right away when it turns on either.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • e30austin
    replied
    It will kick the high speed fan on earlier (before half way), in an attempt to cool the car down before getting too warm. Just a suggestion from a guy who's done this a few times. Best of luck to you.

    Leave a comment:


  • m3boost
    replied
    Cut some of the lip from the radiator. You should be fine after that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Strelok
    replied
    Alright, so I got the euro fan in the mail today and had no luck with fitment:



    The blades are fine the ring hits the top of the rad. I tried mounting it on the other side of the clutch but that pushed it into the front of the engine.

    Any suggestions? Is there a thinner clutch I can run? The one in the kit I got is "vemo" brand.

    Thanks!

    Originally posted by Austin!
    Here's my setup that I run with every swapped car I assemble. Some have had air con. Some have not. NONE have overheating issues and have very efficient air conditioning (if so equipped).

    S50/S52
    80c tstat with 1/8" hole drilled to allow air to escape
    Stock water pump
    E36 or Z3M radiator and stock E30 expansion tank
    STOCK E30 A/C FAN (loud but move a lot of air and you already own it, SPAL is unnecessary in my opinion)
    E30 M3 82c fan switch, installed on side of radiator, wired to high speed fan

    Best of luck to you. The above is what I would suggest.

    It's my understanding that lower temp switches don't actually make the car run cooler? Considering the fact that my car can't even cool itself down to normal temps when I turn the AC off, I don't expect lower temp switches to help. I could be wrong though. Also, not sure what Portland summers are like but I have a feeling they're nothing like what we get in Atlanta

    Leave a comment:


  • e30austin
    replied
    Here's my setup that I run with every swapped car I assemble. Some have had air con. Some have not. NONE have overheating issues and have very efficient air conditioning (if so equipped).

    S50/S52
    80c tstat with 1/8" hole drilled to allow air to escape
    Stock water pump
    E36 or Z3M radiator and stock E30 expansion tank
    STOCK E30 A/C FAN (loud but move a lot of air and you already own it, SPAL is unnecessary in my opinion)
    E30 M3 82c fan switch, installed on side of radiator, wired to high speed fan

    Best of luck to you. The above is what I would suggest.

    Leave a comment:


  • m3boost
    replied
    Originally posted by Strelok
    Thanks, I actually ordered this fan last night! I got the kit though that has a Vemo clutch, hopefully it works OK. While my temps aren't terrible, my AC really doesn't work well and I like my cars to run cool so I think having this plus the big electric fan on the condenser will get it running where I want it.

    I personally like the meyle clutch.. Its a little tighter and pulls more air at idle than most other clutches

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by ZekeTheSneak
    Stupid question but you are using the e30 brown coolant temp sensor? Obd1 or 2? Obd2 you still need to use the brown coolant temp sensor and cut two of the wires going to the stock ond2 sensor



    Brown is for the gauge. The resistance on the e36 sender does not match the e30 resistance and the gauge will read wrong.
    Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 07-09-2018, 08:55 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ZekeTheSneak
    replied
    Stupid question but you are using the e30 brown coolant temp sensor? Obd1 or 2? Obd2 you still need to use the brown coolant temp sensor and cut two of the wires going to the stock ond2 sensor

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Strelok
    I like my cars to run cool

    It's actually not good for an engine to run too cool. Keep it in the 170's at minimum. I have found that they actually make the most power at 195....


    also, I hope you didn't order from ECS. Not sure if you heard what's going on with the company, but they just did a hostile takeover at Turner Motorsports parts division. That listing says it will ship Sept 10th, expect at least 60-90 after that...

    Leave a comment:


  • Strelok
    replied
    Originally posted by m3boost
    Use this fan blade with a Meyle e36 fan clutch..
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...522243303~geb/
    Thanks, I actually ordered this fan last night! I got the kit though that has a Vemo clutch, hopefully it works OK. While my temps aren't terrible, my AC really doesn't work well and I like my cars to run cool so I think having this plus the big electric fan on the condenser will get it running where I want it.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by m3boost
    Use this fan blade with a Meyle e36 fan clutch..
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...522243303~geb/



    Nice find! Members here years ago would use the Audi diesel fan, but it was made for counter clockwise rotation (blew towards the radiator). I bought one years ago, and actually just threw it in the garbage last week.

    Leave a comment:


  • m3boost
    replied
    Use this fan blade with a Meyle e36 fan clutch..
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...522243303~geb/

    Leave a comment:

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