Shopping for an engine. Seeking input.

[bdi_fc]

I have a 1989 BMW 325is that I'd like to swap a DOHC motor into.

Having read/searched these forums for the past few months, I've come to the conclusions that:

• An S50 is the easiest and most straight forward swap
  • When going with the S50, ensure that it is manufactured after 10/95 for the improved valve retainers
• Using the e36 transmission, you can bolt up the e30 m3 driveshaft
• An S52 costs more, requires more work, but might be easier to source with greater performance
• The Treehouseracing harness adapter makes wiring plug-n-play

I called bmrparts.com, Bavarian Auto Recycling, and was quoted the following:
S50 Motor, 2 year warranty, no core charge, with the transmission, shipped to my house for $6,076 (tax included).

After seeing some of the pricing quoted on this forum, that seems expensive to me. Furthermore, isn't 10/95 a late s50 motor? Wouldn't that severely limit the number of eligible S50s for swapping?

If the above is true, wouldn't it be better to go S52 and get a blown M50 donor motor to complete the OBD1 swap?

I appreciate your input! Thanks in advance!

[bdi_fc]

I called Harout's in Sunvalley:
S50 or S52 with transmission
$5,000
if S52, would be willing to swap OBD1 parts from an M50 to perform the OBD conversion.

No e30 M3 driveshaft available.

[hugh jass]

If you use a standard e36 325i tranny (Getrag S5D) you can use your stock e30 driveshaft. This has been documented and is what I'm planning on doing. YOu can find a lot better prices on motors than that. Check out the classifieds here and on bimmerforums.com. I picked up my s52 for $2000 and had to buy all the obd1 stuff separately, which was another few hundered $$.

[bdi_fc]

If you use a standard e36 325i tranny (Getrag S5D) you can use your stock e30 driveshaft. This has been documented and is what I'm planning on doing. YOu can find a lot better prices on motors than that. Check out the classifieds here and on bimmerforums.com. I picked up my s52 for $2000 and had to buy all the obd1 stuff separately, which was another few hundered $$.

Thanks for the response.

How does the 325 tranny compare to the M3 tranny, though?

Is this write up (http://homepage.mac.com/aceves/OBDI/OBD_ONE1.htm) a good guide for what parts to source for the OBD swap?

And what about Zionsville's temp sender manifold for the OBD swap? Does this allow you to skip tapping the head? Any opinions?

[FredK]

The Getrag 250 (325) cannot take as much abuse as a ZF 310/320 (328, M3).

You don't NEED an E30 M3 driveshaft to use the beefier ZF transmission. You can use a 96+ 328i or M3 driveshaft, though you'll need to swap out the center bearing and support to an E30 unit.

You can reliably pick up a 328i/M3 driveshaft for $100 - 150, or sometimes less (especially in the case of the 328i driveshaft).

I have no experience with tapping the head or using the temp sender manifold. Sorry.

If you choose to source an S50, the available pool of engines is even smaller if you want a 10/95+ engine. I'm not sure if the 10/95 is even a guarantee, I think the actual parts succession was in 3/96...

[bdi_fc]

The Getrag 250 (325) cannot take as much abuse as a ZF 310/320 (328, M3).

You don't NEED an E30 M3 driveshaft to use the beefier ZF transmission. You can use a 96+ 328i or M3 driveshaft, though you'll need to swap out the center bearing and support to an E30 unit.

You can reliably pick up a 328i/M3 driveshaft for $100 - 150, or sometimes less (especially in the case of the 328i driveshaft).

I have no experience with tapping the head or using the temp sender manifold. Sorry.

If you choose to source an S50, the available pool of engines is even smaller if you want a 10/95+ engine. I'm not sure if the 10/95 is even a guarantee, I think the actual parts succession was in 3/96...

Thanks for the input.

With the driveshaft, can I use the existing E30 center bearing and support from my car with the M3/328 driveshaft?

With the S50 route, how much would changing the valve retainers add to the total project cost?

[FredK]

With the driveshaft, can I use the existing E30 center bearing and support from my car with the M3/328 driveshaft?

Yes, in theory you could. If the CSB support and bearing come loose very easily, then you can definitely reuse it. If it's stubbornly stuck, and you either tear the rubber surround, or damage the bearing, then you're gonna have to shell out another $45 for a new CSB and bearing.

With the S50 route, how much would changing the valve retainers add to the total project cost?

$80 24 spring retainers / plates
$32 48 valve collets
$80 VPD spring compressor
$25-75 Cam lock tool (there's a cheap one someone makes, I forgot who)
$30 Dummy chain tensioner
$30 (optional) TDC pin
$35 Valve cover gasket, sparkplug gasket, valve cover grommets

$312-362. You'll also need some inexpensive calipers to measure the Vanos advance, and a good torque wrench capable of measuring small torques.

Of course, you can turn around and resell the tools for probably 80% of what you paid. If you do that, you can probably get away for around $180 or so. You'd probably redo the valve cover gaskets anyway, even if you didn't have to change the retainers.

[equate975]

Thanks for the response.

How does the 325 tranny compare to the M3 tranny, though?

Is this write up (http://homepage.mac.com/aceves/OBDI/OBD_ONE1.htm) a good guide for what parts to source for the OBD swap?

And what about Zionsville's temp sender manifold for the OBD swap? Does this allow you to skip tapping the head? Any opinions?

That thing look like crap

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=76333

We just covered the options there. TMS has a wiring harness they swear will work in an e30. I dont believe them but they claim it does.. so it must I guess lol.

[bdi_fc]

In the process of purchasing the following setup:

• S52 100k mi
• ZF transmission with same mileage
• matching driveshaft with 4 bolt flange
• E36 M3 steering rack w/tie rods, reservoir, and hoses
• OBD I conversion parts
  • HFM
  • Intake Manifold
  • ECM
  • Harness
  • Misc. sensors

Total: $4,050 + shipping

[Teaguer]

Total: $4,050 + shipping

That sounds like a pretty decent deal coming from a shop .
While you/they are at it tell them to throw in the ft. struts & brakes for cheap .

You can always source the rear parts later and go 5-lug with M3 brakes or just put them up FS and recoup some $$ .

Also I'm assuming the rack is from the same car , you should see if they have a '95 M3 rack available .

You might also want to ask some Q's about that OBDI swap stuff too .
Mainly about what exactly is the DME and HFM out of .

[bdi_fc]

That sounds like a pretty decent deal coming from a shop .
While you/they are at it tell them to throw in the ft. struts & brakes for cheap .

You can always source the rear parts later and go 5-lug with M3 brakes or just put them up FS and recoup some $$ .

Also I'm assuming the rack is from the same car , you should see if they have a '95 M3 rack available .

You might also want to ask some Q's about that OBDI swap stuff too .
Mainly about what exactly is the DME and HFM out of .

It's actually private party. He bought a wrecked car (rear end impact) to do the swap into an e36 325. So he pretty much had everything I needed. Moreover, he ran the engine before he bought it in the car and said it ran great. He's accepting credit card so I'm not too concerned about recourse if necessary.
Everything is sourced from the same car, except the OBD I stuff obviously.

I was thinking the same thing about the suspension, but I think he already sold the car and those items.

Does it matter which rack I use? 95 M3 steering rack or 96+?

[CarsSuck]

the 95 rack is 3.0 turns lock-lock and the 96+ is the regular 3.2 or 3.5 from the rest of the e36s.

[bdi_fc]

the 95 rack is 3.0 turns lock-lock and the 96+ is the regular 3.2 or 3.5 from the rest of the e36s.

either way, it's better than stock e30.

[bmwpower]

$80 24 spring retainers / plates
$32 48 valve collets
$80 VPD spring compressor
$25-75 Cam lock tool (there's a cheap one someone makes, I forgot who)
$30 Dummy chain tensioner
$30 (optional) TDC pin
$35 Valve cover gasket, sparkplug gasket, valve cover grommets

$312-362. You'll also need some inexpensive calipers to measure the Vanos advance, and a good torque wrench capable of measuring small torques.

Of course, you can turn around and resell the tools for probably 80% of what you paid. If you do that, you can probably get away for around $180 or so. You'd probably redo the valve cover gaskets anyway, even if you didn't have to change the retainers.

Didn't know you could do it without pulling the head. Learn something new everyday. :)