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trick to removing crank nut???

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    trick to removing crank nut???

    I think this would be much easier if the motor was still installed in a vehicle, but of course it isn't.

    Anyone know any tricks, or is it just brute force? I know I almost broke my 1/2" breaker bar last night. On the other hand, I was trying it by myself, and was having a hard time holding the engine in place while I was putting pressure on the bar. I'm going to stop and get a 3/4" bar tonight. Anyone ever have luck with an impact?

    #2
    Impact works wonders :)
    BimmerHeads
    Classic BMW Specialists
    Santa Clarita, CA

    www.BimmerHeads.com

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      #3
      Yeah, I have a 36V Dewalt cordless one that will twist the nuts off of just about anything, but the battery wasn't charged up when I decided to mess around with it last night. I also have a 1/2" air impact, but it is junk compared to the Dewalt

      One of my coworkers offered up his 3/4" electric impact. I might stop and pick that up tonight on the way home. If that won't do it, I'll try heating it up a little.

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        #4
        if you have an impact, you probably won't need air. it should come off in just a few minutes. i've got a IR 231 1/2" impact and it zipped the crank bolt off very quickly, same with the rear axle nut. go air tools!
        ______________________
        ex-Chief Operating Officer
        Blunt Tech Industries
        West Coast and Pacific Rim

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          #5
          I had the same problem trying to remove a crank nut from a NV M50. I had a 1/2 3ft break with a cheater bar and 2 guys wailing on it and it wouldn't budget.

          We sprayed from PB Blaster penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 20 mins. Came back and the bolt came off using just the 1/2 breaker easy. The PB helps break down the red loctite they put on those things.

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            #6
            Originally posted by RobertK View Post
            I had the same problem trying to remove a crank nut from a NV M50. I had a 1/2 3ft break with a cheater bar and 2 guys wailing on it and it wouldn't budget.

            We sprayed from PB Blaster penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 20 mins. Came back and the bolt came off using just the 1/2 breaker easy. The PB helps break down the red loctite they put on those things.
            LOL....thanks..... I hadn't resorted to the wailing quite yet. I messed with it a little last weekend, but didn't get anywhere. I sprayed it with PB blaster then and let it sit. Since then, I have sparyed it a few times more when I have randomly walked through the garage. I'll probably take another crack at it this weekend.

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              #7
              The last I did was the worst ive ever known, had the block on the floor with near on a tonne on a pallet lowered onto it with the fork lift to stop it moving while me and a mate jumped on the end of a 3/4 bar with 4 ft of scaffold tube on the end.
              Best method though is to crank the engine over with the bar and socket attached, let it run for a few seconds if your really lazy:D

              Best to avoid heat as the sprocket is part plastic

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                #8
                damn....nice tips, i was asking a co-worker about this today....
                My 2.9L Build!

                Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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                  #9
                  put a block of 2x4 between the crank and block then use a pretty decent breaker bar

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                    #10
                    man mine was a PAIN IN THE ASS! its on the engine stand, had to put one of the flywheel bolts in, and wedge some steel in it, then had a breaker bar on the nut and then put a 4 ft go kart axle on it, it was like 200 ft/pounds
                    NEED SOME VINYL STICKERS???

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