euro engine wiring......anyone?

[Jason89i]

ok, the euro engine is installed. ews2 installed. engine fires (yes it does sound awesome) but, i need some help.

problem: at c101 pin18 (blk/yel), i am getting voltage at both the "start" and in the "run" position. i have noticed the k5 and k7 unloader relays are not functioning correctly, no power sent to pwindows.....blah blah. so, obviously the starter cranks in both the "start" and "run" position.

wiring differences:

typically (88+m3's), the c101 pin15 houses a blk/grn wire that goes from the k5 and k7 chassis relays (through the c101) and to the starter terminal 30h. blk/grn wire is energized in the "start" position and turns off the relays. c101 pin 18 (blk/yel) is the independant "start" request wire.

on my early 3/87 m3, the c101 does not house a blk/grn wire. the "start" request goes directly from the "start" position, to the c101 pin 18, to the inst cluster, to the k5 and k7 relays (takes the place of the blk/grn wire) AND goes to the starter. the "start" request should power the relays and turn them off.

i had an 86 325es that had the exact same wiring, but i did not have this problem. am i chasing a the wrong phantom? anyone else with an early car want to chime in?

cheers, jason

[Jason89i]

problem solved.

typically (88+m3's), the c101 pin15 houses a blk/grn wire that goes from the k5 and k7 chassis relays (through the c101) and to the starter terminal 30h. blk/grn wire is energized in the "start" position and turns off the relays. c101 pin 18 (blk/yel) is the independant "start" request wire.

on my early 3/87 m3, the c101 does not house a blk/grn wire. the "start" request goes directly from the "start" position, to the c101 pin 18, to the inst cluster, to the k5 and k7 relays (takes the place of the blk/grn wire) AND goes to the starter. the "start" request should power the relays and turn them off.

i made the chassis fit the motor. i had to isolate the "start request" blk/yel wire away from powering the k7/k5 relays. (of course bmw put the START wire splice in the middle of the DOOR SILL . . . i still cant believe i had to pull the seat out and pull back the floor carpet to fix the "start" wire that goes to the starter )

all is good now. "start" goes only to ews and then to starter. black/grn wire off e36 starter now energizes the k7/k5 relays like a newer body style.

cheers, jason

[FredK]

Glad to hear you figured it out! Thanks for charting unknown waters and sharing the info.

I had to read that a few times to understand what was going on!

[Jason89i]

thanks fred. its even difficult to understand with 4 wiring diagrams sitting under your nose.

ive swapped US spec motors in older cars (with similar wiring as my 3/87 m3) without any difficulties. however, the wiring and relays on the euro motors are ENTIRELY different. and the 88+ cars is simply not an issue. hope this helps someone down the road. cheers, jason

[equate975]

I didn't even know you were swapping a euro in, thats badass. Too bad Lake Geneva is super far away ;)

Do you do this just for shits and giggles? Or do you own/work at some shop?

[Jason89i]

no shop. i call it "stress relief." some people go to the taverns to unwind.... personally, i like the sound of a straight 6 winding out. cheers, jason

[DEV0 E30]

You are probably starting to rival some shops in terms of how many swaps you've done. How many 24v cars you have these days? Be sure to let us know how your brake booster setup works when you have that thing moving. You're using the Geo Metro booster right? I thought I read that on here awhile ago.