s50 soft valve retainers

[gazellebeigem3]

fact or fiction? I know pre 10/95=dead car...but really? Ive read plenty of speculation on bimmerforums and whatnot, but i havent seen a motor drop a valve and it be attributed to this. thoughts?

[Bimmer335is]

one of my exhaust valves dropped because of soft retainers, and my lead foot. So I am almost done with full rebuild with upgraded retainer, and 3 angle valve job.

[FredK]

Speculation? People on bimmerforums have experienced dropped valves, with the keepers pulling through the upper spring plates. There's plenty of fiction as to how to replace them, including pulling the head, using rope, using compressed air, etc.

You don't need any of that. Just bring 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4 to TDC, confirm with a drinking straw or wooden dowel, and have at it. The VP Design spring compressor makes quick work of this job, and I believe it's a $72 tool.

[gazellebeigem3]

wow, good input very quickly! I did some searching and i guess i just didnt see the ones where it had happened, just where people asked and they were bumrushed with yes's. I see now thats for good reason. I already bought the updated retainers and i have the vp tool on order. What are the other specialty tools needed? Cam lock, vanos tool, anything else?

[FredK]

Ya know, I didn't even end up using the Vanos turning tool.

I used the cam lock. The TDC pin is optional, and if you're running a lightweight flywheel it's useless anyway. I used the Vanos test fitting with compressed air to check the Vanos travel.

Aside from that, just get some cam lube so you're not running them dry (actually I think some heavy motor oil will be fine, but eh, do as you please) upon startup.

A cheap set of calipers for measuring the Vanos travel is useful. Maybe a low-value torque wrench so you can dial in the cam caps to the right value (they take very little torque).

I also used a dummy chain tensioner. People have used the hydraulic tensioner and haven't had any problems, but I figure, eh, why not, it's like $30.

[gazellebeigem3]

Ya know, I didn't even end up using the Vanos turning tool.

I used the cam lock. The TDC pin is optional, and if you're running a lightweight flywheel it's useless anyway. I used the Vanos test fitting with compressed air to check the Vanos travel.

Aside from that, just get some cam lube so you're not running them dry (actually I think some heavy motor oil will be fine, but eh, do as you please) upon startup.

A cheap set of calipers for measuring the Vanos travel is useful. Maybe a low-value torque wrench so you can dial in the cam caps to the right value (they take very little torque).

I also used a dummy chain tensioner. People have used the hydraulic tensioner and haven't had any problems, but I figure, eh, why not, it's like $30.

awesome man, thanks. I was going to do this either way, i was just wondering if anyone had first hand experience, and unfortunately, some do.