ebay headers

[e30_kid89]

If you don't have a lift and want to run the ebayz headers just drop the motor in with the headers ON the motor. Saves you this headache with another when you have to fight and massage the motor in with these on.

[Rev Engineer]

Good tip! This might work for me. I've already got an engine hoist connected up to my motor, but the motor is still in the bay. I did this to facilitate getting the transmission out. I think I'll bolt my trans back in and then put the headers on while I've got the motor lifted 1/3 up out of the engine compartment.

If you don't have a lift and want to run the ebayz headers just drop the motor in with the headers ON the motor. Saves you this headache with another when you have to fight and massage the motor in with these on.

[etxxz]

i have no spacers on my engine mounts and was considering putting a few mm but what effect will that have on the life of the engine mount?!

i might just put a rubber sleeve to keep vibrations on with the subframe at bay, and hopefully the O2 sensor will not fail from being against the firewall's heat shield...there's a reason i paid $120shipped for this thing.

the reason i didnt run the OBDII headers (which i still have in the garage) is 'cause its kinda convinient to have the headers end under the car and be able to hook up a stock e30/e36m3 exhaust or straight pipes whenever i want and not have to fabricate a downpipe...idk i made the headers work so prob be running straight pipes untill further notice ($hortne$$)

If you don't have a lift and want to run the ebayz headers just drop the motor in with the headers ON the motor. Saves you this headache with another when you have to fight and massage the motor in with these on.

i dont think its possible to drop the engine and tranny along with the ebay headers attached....no way its possible. and bolting the transmission once the engine is in the car will prob be harder if not impossible.

fk i have to run to class sorry if what i typed is hard to understand!!

[golde30]

uhh, a bunch of ppl here have dropped the engine in w/ headers + tranny connected...thats how im going to do it.

[etxxz]

damn, i can see how it can be easily done with the stock headers, just not the ebay ones with the long downpipes...maybe i'm a noob at dropping engines that i even removed the a/c tensioner to clear the front/condenser and then how tight it still is with the firewall. idk good luck to you!!

[e30_kid89]

damn, i can see how it can be easily done with the stock headers, just not the ebay ones with the long downpipes...maybe i'm a noob at dropping engines that i even removed the a/c tensioner to clear the front/condenser and then how tight it still is with the firewall. idk good luck to you!!

I've seen/assisted a buddy drop in his s50 with the ebay headers, intake mainfold and transmission. Yes it took a wee bit longer mostly becuase he was lazy and didn't want to take off the manifold but eventually the bay swallowed the motor headers and all. Are you keeping A/C? If you're gonna drop in the motor with the compressor its gonna be a lot more of a bitch but i still think doable.

[MR 325]

I dropped the motor in without the intake or ehaders... so easy. :) It had a tranny on it too.

[dougsic]

Is anyone using the massive block thingy which shims the motor up? I've received mine, but I haven't installed them yet. Any other tips!?

What's the best way to determine where to cut the stock e36 midpipe?

BTW - My stock e36 s50 midpipe got dimpled to clear the subframe and sway bar. I'm hoping that I wouldn't have to dimple the ebay headers, but I'm not so confident after reading that last post. Sounds like a terrible experience! If it gets too hard, I'll give up and reinstall the s52 stuff. But, I need to make that decision before my existing midpipe gets cut.

I only needed a thin washer (.097") to clear the subframe - the massive block was WAY too thick. I didn't have to dimple the headers at all.

I installed the headers, then I reconnected the exhaust from the muffler forward and it was easy to see where to cut the e36 midpipe.

My stock e36 s50 downpipe was crushed to clear things but all of that got cut away because the headers extend so much further back.

Installing the headers and cutting the downpipes wasn't a hard job at all BUT - I do have a lift.

Be prepared to have the car up pretty high, support the engine, remove the motor mount, drill out the heat shield rivets and cut the stainless steel downpipes. I have no idea how anyone could do this without a lift, though many have.

[Rev Engineer]

I installed the headers, then I reconnected the exhaust from the muffler forward and it was easy to see where to cut the e36 midpipe.

My stock e36 s50 downpipe was crushed to clear things but all of that got cut away because the headers extend so much further back.

This makes sense. Glad to hear that the crushed sections on the e36 midpipe goes away. Cool!

I should have no problem getting the headers installed, but mating up the cat and exhaust section could be the hardest part for me.

I've got a friend with a hoist that could help me out. Would it be a very good idea to finish up my clutch job, bolt the trans and headers in and then take it a lift to fit/cut the midpipe/cat and install the rest of the exhaust? Might have to drive it with headers only, or maybe I can get it towed to the lift.

[etxxz]

^^ you can pry the rivets with a screwdriver and minimal force. i think a spacer to clear that subframe might be necesary in my case though. i'll make something with the contour of my engine mount at work tomorow...and i hate you, my lift = craftman jack and 4 stands

I've seen/assisted a buddy drop in his s50 with the ebay headers, intake mainfold and transmission. Yes it took a wee bit longer mostly becuase he was lazy and didn't want to take off the manifold but eventually the bay swallowed the motor headers and all. Are you keeping A/C? If you're gonna drop in the motor with the compressor its gonna be a lot more of a bitch but i still think doable.

i dropped with both M50 intake manifold on and the A/C attached since i plan on keeping it...although i had to remove the intake mani anyways to do the heater lines pfff...Now, i did remove the A/C tensioner since it was the only thing that didnt clear the condenser, i can see how removing the A/C and intake mani would've made a world of a difference, but your buddy and you have some mad tetris skills there, i just don't see it :D

mr 325 has the right idea if you plan on keeping the heater/A.C. i dont think by any means that getting this engine tranny into the e30 is difficult at all...its not, i just found the headers a bit too complicated for what it would be or for what the stock headers would've been. To be honest, i didnt see much difference in either header and doubt any actual rains from them, but having the downpipes already there is a huge + for me.

[dougsic]

This makes sense. Glad to hear that the crushed sections on the e36 midpipe goes away. Cool!

I've got a friend with a hoist that could help me out. Would it be a very good idea to finish up my clutch job, bolt the trans and headers in and then take it a lift to fit/cut the midpipe/cat and install the rest of the exhaust? Might have to drive it with headers only, or maybe I can get it towed to the lift.

If it were me, I'd get the car as is to my friends, THEN install the tranny, headers and exhaust. But, I'm 46 years old and sliding under a car to bench press the transmission into place is just a memory of something that was a PITA when I was fit! Not any more!

I don't think you'll have any problems cutting the exhaust. It's much easier than getting that transmission up in there and it sounds like you're prepared to do that.

You'll be fine.

[dougsic]

[quote=etxxz;900634...and i hate you, my lift = craftman jack and 4 stands[/quote]

:bow:

[tjcm3]

Has anybody used the Ebay headers from gmotogarage? It's a little late for me since I just ordered a set, but looking at the pictures you can see the header tubes have been welded inside the flanges in addition to the outside. The inside welds do not look great but with a little grinding I'm hoping to wind up with smooth transitions w/o the need for a welder. I'll post an update once I receive them.

[BDSax]

should be the same. they are all made in tawain

[BlackE30]

Does anyone make an adaptor that goes from the dual 2" to a single 2.5"?

Thanks,
Jeff