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    still wont start

    E30 S52 swap with OBDI conversion:

    I checked the wires that get 12v at ignition and the one that gets 12v at crank for the fuel pump, those are fine, the relay works fine. I grounded it well with a wire from the front back to the battery, I just replaced the crank sensor which was not working. The fuel pump still will not come on (i jumped the pump before and yes it does work).

    I'm kinda lost now...any suggestions?
    sigpic

    #2
    The DME grounds the relay thereby sending power to the fuel pump.

    Not sure what exactly you wrote as it doesn't make a lot of sense.

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      #3
      Are we supposed to guess the rest or just give random suggestions, like add fuel?

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        #4
        Ha ha true a little more expination would help alot for these guys.

        Question though, when you say the DME (meaning the computer) grounds the relays. Does that mean you need to mount the DME some where with a good ground. Im not quite this far in the swap yet and was having trouble getting the harness to fit through the little hole that old one went through. Is there some trick to it or do i have to make it a little bigger?

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          #5
          Yeah, it's a little tough to get the DME connector into the bulkhead hole, but it fits without modifying (enlarging) the hole

          Originally posted by whysimon
          WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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            #6
            Are you getting spark?

            I would also double check the fuel lines to see if they are reversed.

            Keep in mind that the fuel pump will not continuously run if the car doesn't start.

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              #7
              I think it gives you about two seconds or so.

              I don't recall if EWS allows the fuel pump to run or not, but that could be an issue also.

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                #8
                Sorry for the confusion, I grounded a wire coming from the harness near the DME (which would be the DME/relay ground right?) to the strut tower and from there have a wire running back to the battery ground.

                There is a solid green wire and a green with purple stripe I was told to check that has to do with the fuel pump/relay. one is supposed to get 12v at the turn of the key, and the other 12v while its cranking. I tested those and it is fine. If they werent showing 12v at the right time, I was told it would be a problem with the grounding, so im positive my grounding is good.

                Yeah I'm pretty much all ears at this point, yes there is fuel in the tank lol.

                I have a red label 413 DME, so I shouldnt have any issues with EWS right?

                I don't know if I am getting spark

                I know the fuel lines aren't reversed because I had them reversed the first time around I tried starting the car..lol
                sigpic

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by shopkeep View Post
                  Sorry for the confusion, I grounded a wire coming from the harness near the DME (which would be the DME/relay ground right?) to the strut tower and from there have a wire running back to the battery ground.
                  The car is the battery ground, there's no need to run any more wires anywhere. So you actually ran a wire all the way back to the trunk (or the battery is in the engine comp?)? I also hope you didn't reverse those wires. There are two wires coming out of the harness at that point (at the diagnostic plug). One is the harness ground, one is the harness power. If you reverse them, you'll fry something.

                  The wire with the red cable tie is to be connected to the battery junction, the other one is to be grounded. DO NOT reverse these:

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                    #10
                    actually i used a jumper cable to try it out and it didn't seem to make any difference. I see what ya mean though, I was just doing what this guy was telling me I needed to do.

                    Yeap I got those wires hooked up correctly.

                    On the coil packs and injectors I am getting between 11 and 11.5 ish volts when the key is turned one knotch, is that acceptable?
                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      try taking out the fuel pump relay and and jumping pin 87 and 30 on the harness with the ignition on, if youre pump runs you might wanna go back and check your wiring

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                        #12
                        I have tried that already and yes the fuel pump does turn on when i do that...that's what im thinking...time to take the intake manifold back off...eh.
                        sigpic

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                          #13
                          What does it do when you turn your car over are you sure you got the fuel lines hooked up corectly..... Idk if your running your Charcoal canister or not but i found it easier to just run the feed line to the front of the rail then run the line from the back of the rail directly to the retun line and just plug the port on the bottom of the TB and delete your canister,,, if its not fuel then yes your wiring is suspect re-trace and match thats the only thing i can think of....

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                            #14
                            Ok, just found out it isn't firing. I am 100% positive the fuel lines are on correctly. Yes I have the charcoal cannister hooked up. Whatever is causing it is not turning on the fuel pump, and not allowing the engine to fire.
                            sigpic

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                              #15
                              Someone correct me if I'm wrong but there aren't an awful lot of possibilities here. If the relay is fine and the pump turns on when jumped, then it's just your wiring... (ie the C101 interface is screwed up or the DME itself is messed - either way check that the pin at C101 that is supposed to send the fuel pump signal... sends the signal, and trace back).

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