Pulling out Cams

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  • btec116
    Advanced Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 131

    #1

    Pulling out Cams

    Can somebody please enlighten me as to why the BMW special tools are necessary for pulling cams out (or in)?
    I've grown up with bike motors (fairly high-strung, hollow cams, and very high tolerances) and have never seen a similar tool being used. Ever. Its always been a case of undoing bearing caps slowly and evenly. Emphasis on slow and even. Then assemble, time them properly and you're good enough for well over 150bhp/litre and north of 12000rpm.
    I must be missing something. So whats the go?
  • matt
    No R3VLimiter
    • Oct 2003
    • 3731

    #2
    Long cams bend and break more easily. It's also an ease/convienience thing.

    Comment

    • e30 gangsta
      No R3VLimiter
      • Jul 2004
      • 3877

      #3
      I got a question has anyone done the swap without the tool? And if they did what parts would you replace while your already in there?

      Comment

      • FredK
        R3V OG
        • Oct 2003
        • 14739

        #4
        I did not use the cap compression tool during removal or installation.

        If you want you can swap out the hydraulic valve adjusters. You could also replace the springs with S50 valve springs and swap out the valve stem seals if you were a glutton for punishment.

        Comment

        • Van Westervelt
          R3V OG
          • May 2006
          • 9365

          #5
          Plenty of people have swapped them out without the cam tools. However, everyone I know of that has done it, including myself, will recommend the timing tools at the minimum.
          sigpic

          Comment

          • mazur
            Mod Crazy
            • Jan 2006
            • 731

            #6
            It's not as simple as just loosening all the caps slowly. What you have to do is position the cam strategically so that there's no to little force on the lobs from the springs. Otherwise it will snap without warning.


            There's a right up on pelicanparts.com somewhere how to do it without the tools and provides many pics.

            Comment

            • turboeta
              E30 Addict
              • Aug 2007
              • 571

              #7
              Yeah, get the timing tools atleast

              635csi Euro/Alpina B7S

              Comment

              • Van Westervelt
                R3V OG
                • May 2006
                • 9365

                #8
                Putting them in untimed, and then timing them is the way to go.
                sigpic

                Comment

                • e30 gangsta
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Jul 2004
                  • 3877

                  #9
                  Originally posted by FredK
                  I did not use the cap compression tool during removal or installation.

                  If you want you can swap out the hydraulic valve adjusters. You could also replace the springs with S50 valve springs and swap out the valve stem seals if you were a glutton for punishment.
                  I plan to install the springs and seals once the head goes off to the machine shop. Is it really that difficult? Also let me guess the springs and hydraulic valve adjusters are expensive.

                  Comment

                  • FredK
                    R3V OG
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 14739

                    #10
                    Springs are cheap ($5?), HVAs are like $18 each.

                    This job is not difficult in retrospect, but when I took everything apart I was a noob so everything took 10x longer.

                    Groupie, mazur, and turboeta are all correct. You can't just loosen cam caps willy-nilly, you have to position them carefully. Also, it's easiest to put them in the same way you removed them--with the least amount of pressure on the cam, and the pressure on adjacent lobes. Get them installed, then time them.

                    Comment

                    • 94is
                      Member
                      • Feb 2004
                      • 90

                      #11
                      Replace the retainers with the '96+ M3 ones, upgrade the keepers with Ferrea ones, and lifters tend to get noisy at 125k miles. You may only notice the ticking while autoxing tho. But if you're in there, you may as well replace them.
                      '90 325i SterlingSilver/Black 5spd
                      '94 325is #94 IP

                      Comment

                      • e30 gangsta
                        No R3VLimiter
                        • Jul 2004
                        • 3877

                        #12
                        So we have retainers 96m+
                        Keepers ( is that the correct term? ) ferrea ones
                        lifters
                        hydraulic valve adjusters
                        valve springs
                        valve stem seals

                        Anything else while we are in there? timing chain / tensioner anything that should be replaced when valve cover or head is off.

                        Comment

                        • 94is
                          Member
                          • Feb 2004
                          • 90

                          #13
                          Originally posted by e30 gangsta
                          So we have retainers 96m+
                          Keepers ( is that the correct term? ) ferrea ones
                          lifters
                          hydraulic valve adjusters
                          valve springs
                          valve stem seals

                          Anything else while we are in there? timing chain / tensioner anything that should be replaced when valve cover or head is off.
                          Lifters are the hydraulic valve adjusters. If you pull the head, and you plan on tracking the car a lot, you may want to put in an MLS gasket and ARP head studs.
                          '90 325i SterlingSilver/Black 5spd
                          '94 325is #94 IP

                          Comment

                          • ZiMMie
                            E30 Modder
                            • Jun 2004
                            • 968

                            #14
                            since on the topic on heads,
                            has anyone done the following without removing the head?
                            ie. valve springs/seats and seals.

                            www.stancefactory.com

                            Comment

                            • PiercedE30
                              R3V Elite
                              • Apr 2005
                              • 4220

                              #15
                              When the head is off. PLEASE!! PLEASE replace the oil check valve in the bottom of the head. It's only a 20 dollar piece (if that) from the dealer and will help keep the lifters from leaking down and causing first start up ticks.

                              edit:
                              #2


                              Part number: 11 12 1 735 180
                              My 2.9L Build!

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