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    Pulling out Cams

    Can somebody please enlighten me as to why the BMW special tools are necessary for pulling cams out (or in)?
    I've grown up with bike motors (fairly high-strung, hollow cams, and very high tolerances) and have never seen a similar tool being used. Ever. Its always been a case of undoing bearing caps slowly and evenly. Emphasis on slow and even. Then assemble, time them properly and you're good enough for well over 150bhp/litre and north of 12000rpm.
    I must be missing something. So whats the go?

    #2
    Long cams bend and break more easily. It's also an ease/convienience thing.

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      #3
      I got a question has anyone done the swap without the tool? And if they did what parts would you replace while your already in there?

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        #4
        I did not use the cap compression tool during removal or installation.

        If you want you can swap out the hydraulic valve adjusters. You could also replace the springs with S50 valve springs and swap out the valve stem seals if you were a glutton for punishment.

        Originally posted by whysimon
        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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          #5
          Plenty of people have swapped them out without the cam tools. However, everyone I know of that has done it, including myself, will recommend the timing tools at the minimum.
          sigpic

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            #6
            It's not as simple as just loosening all the caps slowly. What you have to do is position the cam strategically so that there's no to little force on the lobs from the springs. Otherwise it will snap without warning.


            There's a right up on pelicanparts.com somewhere how to do it without the tools and provides many pics.

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              #7
              Yeah, get the timing tools atleast

              635csi Euro/Alpina B7S

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                #8
                Putting them in untimed, and then timing them is the way to go.
                sigpic

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by FredK View Post
                  I did not use the cap compression tool during removal or installation.

                  If you want you can swap out the hydraulic valve adjusters. You could also replace the springs with S50 valve springs and swap out the valve stem seals if you were a glutton for punishment.
                  I plan to install the springs and seals once the head goes off to the machine shop. Is it really that difficult? Also let me guess the springs and hydraulic valve adjusters are expensive.

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                    #10
                    Springs are cheap ($5?), HVAs are like $18 each.

                    This job is not difficult in retrospect, but when I took everything apart I was a noob so everything took 10x longer.

                    Groupie, mazur, and turboeta are all correct. You can't just loosen cam caps willy-nilly, you have to position them carefully. Also, it's easiest to put them in the same way you removed them--with the least amount of pressure on the cam, and the pressure on adjacent lobes. Get them installed, then time them.

                    Originally posted by whysimon
                    WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                      #11
                      Replace the retainers with the '96+ M3 ones, upgrade the keepers with Ferrea ones, and lifters tend to get noisy at 125k miles. You may only notice the ticking while autoxing tho. But if you're in there, you may as well replace them.
                      '90 325i SterlingSilver/Black 5spd
                      '94 325is #94 IP

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                        #12
                        So we have retainers 96m+
                        Keepers ( is that the correct term? ) ferrea ones
                        lifters
                        hydraulic valve adjusters
                        valve springs
                        valve stem seals

                        Anything else while we are in there? timing chain / tensioner anything that should be replaced when valve cover or head is off.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by e30 gangsta View Post
                          So we have retainers 96m+
                          Keepers ( is that the correct term? ) ferrea ones
                          lifters
                          hydraulic valve adjusters
                          valve springs
                          valve stem seals

                          Anything else while we are in there? timing chain / tensioner anything that should be replaced when valve cover or head is off.
                          Lifters are the hydraulic valve adjusters. If you pull the head, and you plan on tracking the car a lot, you may want to put in an MLS gasket and ARP head studs.
                          '90 325i SterlingSilver/Black 5spd
                          '94 325is #94 IP

                          Comment


                            #14
                            since on the topic on heads,
                            has anyone done the following without removing the head?
                            ie. valve springs/seats and seals.

                            www.stancefactory.com

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                              #15
                              When the head is off. PLEASE!! PLEASE replace the oil check valve in the bottom of the head. It's only a 20 dollar piece (if that) from the dealer and will help keep the lifters from leaking down and causing first start up ticks.

                              edit:
                              #2


                              Part number: 11 12 1 735 180
                              My 2.9L Build!

                              Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                              There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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