m50/m52 hybrid

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  • ///mza
    Member
    • Feb 2008
    • 47

    #1

    m50/m52 hybrid

    Hey everyone! I'm looking for some information on the buildup involving an m52 block and a non-vanos m50 head. I've searched everywhere to no avail. Here, e30tech, e3024v, and even bimmerforums (bleh), but I just can't find anything on it. If anyone has any documentation of a swap done like this shoot it my way please, I'm wicked curious to see what kind of numbers these things make and what is needed to run them.
    Do you use the m50's engine management? Which harness, manifold, exhaust, etc. Also, I've read that my 318's getrag 240 bolts up to the m50 and m52, but some people don't recommend it due to the short gearing, would this be cured with a low ratio diff, IE a 3.25 or something along those lines?

    Thanks in advance!
  • smonkbmw
    Professor
    • Jun 2006
    • 4549

    #2
    not so much the short gearing. its the capability to handle the power output. a 260 is a lil more stout of a transmission.

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    • 02stu
      E30 Modder
      • Jan 2005
      • 872

      #3
      I am running that setup now, non-vanos head and m52 2.8L block. I used the non-vanos head electronics manifolds etc, and just bolted the m52 bottom end on. Wasn't complex at all everything bolted right up. Make sure you plug the oil line that is supposed to run to the vanos unit. I am also using a getrag 240 with a 4.10 rear end, it kinda sucks on the highway but then again I have a two hour commute everyday.

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      • AL GReeNeRy
        Advanced Member
        • Nov 2006
        • 136

        #4
        Originally posted by 02stu
        I am running that setup now, non-vanos head and m52 2.8L block. I used the non-vanos head electronics manifolds etc, and just bolted the m52 bottom end on. Wasn't complex at all everything bolted right up. Make sure you plug the oil line that is supposed to run to the vanos unit. I am also using a getrag 240 with a 4.10 rear end, it kinda sucks on the highway but then again I have a two hour commute everyday.
        hmmm so all you really need is the engine/ecu parts? driveline and everything else is the same right? what clutch and flywheel are you using?
        Last edited by AL GReeNeRy; 02-12-2008, 12:31 AM.
        1991 318is nv m50 : brilliantrot

        Comment

        • 02stu
          E30 Modder
          • Jan 2005
          • 872

          #5
          Originally posted by AL GReeNeRy
          hmmm so all you really need is the engine/ecu parts? driveline and everything else is the same right? what clutch and flywheel are you using?
          When I said pretty straight forward I meant straight forward compared to a normally m50 swap. You will still need all of the swap bits like the e28 motor mounts, and 320 brake booster, etc. For the drivetrain if you use the 240 you need a e30 325i shift linkage and carrier, an e36 325i driveshaft w/ e30 center bearing, an m20 clutch flywheel and pressure plate, and a m20 starter. As far the ECU goes get the ECU that matches your non-vanos head. In fact use all of the electronics from a non-vanos.

          Comment

          • alexbaby88
            Wrencher
            • Feb 2005
            • 219

            #6
            Why not just drop in a crank from the S52/M54 and get the full 3.0L instead of just 2.8L?

            Comment

            • ///mza
              Member
              • Feb 2008
              • 47

              #7
              Does the m52 block with the m50 head still make the same 2.8 liter displacement? If I did this swap and was feeling peppy enough someday, would it just be a matter of replacing the head and electronics to gain the function of the vanos?

              to 02stu, do you have a build thread or anything like that of your car?

              And the big question, is an either with an m50/2 swap too much to daily?

              Comment

              • FredK
                R3V OG
                • Oct 2003
                • 14747

                #8
                Originally posted by alexbaby88
                Why not just drop in a crank from the S52/M54 and get the full 3.0L instead of just 2.8L?
                Because dropping in a crank isn't as easy as undoing a few fasteners and tightening them again. There are pistons to shave, pistons rings to file and install, bearings and bearing tolerances to check, etc.

                If you go with a known good M52 2.8L bottom end you can bypass all of this work.

                Originally posted by ///mza
                And the big question, is an either with an m50/2 swap too much to daily?
                Why would it be too much to daily? It's not like it's an uncontrollable deathtrap widowmaker, it's an E30 with 210 whp or so.

                Comment

                • AL GReeNeRy
                  Advanced Member
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 136

                  #9
                  Originally posted by 02stu
                  When I said pretty straight forward I meant straight forward compared to a normally m50 swap. You will still need all of the swap bits like the e28 motor mounts, and 320 brake booster, etc. For the drivetrain if you use the 240 you need a e30 325i shift linkage and carrier, an e36 325i driveshaft w/ e30 center bearing, an m20 clutch flywheel and pressure plate, and a m20 starter. As far the ECU goes get the ECU that matches your non-vanos head. In fact use all of the electronics from a non-vanos.
                  if you had the option of vanos or non-vanos m50 which would you pick? juss wanna swap in the m50 as a budget replacement for my m42 with blown HG. itll stay that way until i can stack money to build it up with proper tranny/driveline and engine work ie, s50/52 internals.
                  1991 318is nv m50 : brilliantrot

                  Comment

                  • alexbaby88
                    Wrencher
                    • Feb 2005
                    • 219

                    #10
                    Originally posted by FredK
                    Because dropping in a crank isn't as easy as undoing a few fasteners and tightening them again. There are pistons to shave, pistons rings to file and install, bearings and bearing tolerances to check, etc.

                    If you go with a known good M52 2.8L bottom end you can bypass all of this work.
                    Its the same thing using an M54 bottom end - crank, rods and pistons from M54 AND you get the full 3.0L 84mm bore and 89.6mm stroke, basically an iron blocked M54.

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