......help
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I dont think you have conclusive evidence that the injectors arent clogged. Are you positive your ecu has ground? -
Are the injectors trying to fire? (as in, is the computer grounding them to pulse them?) Check with a test light.Leave a comment:
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yeah, thanks. that had crossed my mind.
its probably something really f***ing stupid and easy to fix, i just dont know where to look. I've been doing searches on the forums trying to trouble shoot this and i've tried everything i've found so far and haven't gotten anywhere yet.
GOD DAMMIT, I JUST WANT TO DRIVE THE FRIGGEN THING!!!!Leave a comment:
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maybe the ecu has crapped out? If the fuel pump, relay and whatnot are all in working order, the injectors aren't clogged, I think thats the last thing to be stopping fuel from flowing and your injectors to be firing.
Either that, or something isn't wired up right, but if you had it running before it wouldn't make sense if the wiring was screwy...
I'm not an expert (not that far along with the swap, just starting to get the engine in), but I can throw that out for an idea.
MattLeave a comment:
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Wish I could help you, but it sounds like you've found the culprit. With the knowledge on this forum it's just a matter of time until your car is running like a top. :)
Bump!Leave a comment:
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why aren't my injectors firing?
i tried searching and found a possibility of a bad ground. So i ran a wiring from one of the coils to the top of the strut tower (like someone else did) but it still didnt fireLeave a comment:
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problem seems to be at the injectors. pulled the rail off and cranked it over. Nothing! no fuel flowing.
with the help of my roommate, we took off the fuel rail and pulled all the injectors out. cleaned the injectors the best we could and put everything back together and tried it again (just for sh*ts and giggles) still nothing.
so it seems like my problem is the injectors aren't firing.
for what its worth, i have a red label 413 ecu. I tried unplugging it and plugging it back it, but that didn't do anything.
anyone have ideas on what i should do now? How do I fix a "no injector pulse" problem?Leave a comment:
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clogged injectors maybe, take the rail off, then try and crank, see if theyre squirting.Leave a comment:
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yeah, its facing the right way
just finished changing the plugs from platinum to copper plugs, but still didn't have any effectLeave a comment:
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Is your MAF installed correctly? Is the flow arrow facing the right way. I dont know if it will create a no-start condition, but I know that a backwards MAF will make the car run like shit.
Just a thought.Leave a comment:
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UPDATE:
I changed the relay ($16). I am getting a humming and can feel slight vibrations on the fuel lines, so my fuel pump is working. I pulled one of the lines off and i do have pressure.
I haven't done it anymore since i started this thread, but the fact that the car would start for a few seconds on starter fluid, makes me think that i'm getting spark. Is this an incorrect assumption?
I just found it funny that once i hooked up the MAF sensor that it started to bog down and stalled out. since that moment, i haven't been able to get it started again. even after taking it off, putting it back on, disconnecting the battery, disconnecting the computer, ect, ect. I just can't get it running again. it turns over fine (no funny sounds like a bent valve or anything), it just wont fire.
any suggestions... please be gentleLeave a comment:
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Dude I'm impressed you've gotten this far but you really need to do some troubleshooting before you burn out your starter. If you were getting fuel but no ignition you'd know it, with open headers you'd be dumping raw fuel out and smell it. If it doesn't smell like gas and the plugs aren't drenched you definitely have a fuel problem, either fuel pump relay or fuel pump. Jump the fuel pump relay wires and see if the pump hums. If it doesn't get a test light or multimeter and see if the fuel pump is getting power. If you jump the relay and the car runs that's your problem, either ignition switch, wiring, or the relay itself. If you jump the relay and get no power at the pump then the problem is on the wiring on the other side of the relay. And finally if you get power at the pump but no humming its new pump time. It's not $400 either.Leave a comment:
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#1, stop using that ether. it kills engines.
#2, get everything hooked up before you try to run it. much easier to diagnose.
#3, change your oil before you go drive it. a no start will dump fuel into the cylinder, not burn, leak past the rings into the oil. then break down your oil and you can kill main bearings.
simple check. with the car off, just pull the supply side of the fuel line. cover your eyes, check for built up pressure. or, better yet, install a fp inline gauge. $30 max.
cheers, jason
no more ether, got it.
I called the stealership today for new relays and the guy was being a pain in the ass, asking me for a vin, and not clearly answering questions that i had for him. I've got a bently at home for the car, so i'll go through and check which relay is the fuel pump relay and go from there.
I will also see if i can pick up an inline gauge for the fuel pressure. that's a good idea.
thanks for the help.Leave a comment:
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Um, this is probably unrelated to your starting problem, as it relates to the charging system, but how is the alternator hooked up? There should be a long cable from the starter that hooks up directly to a 8mm lug, and there's a wire with a ring on it that hooks up to the D+ lug on the alternator.
fred,
I bought a new alternator from autozone (140amp) for a 93 325is, since that is where the wiring is from (the car, not autozone). I also bought a new red top optima battery. thanks again for the help. I owe you some beers for that day....Leave a comment:
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Um, this is probably unrelated to your starting problem, as it relates to the charging system, but how is the alternator hooked up? There should be a long cable from the starter that hooks up directly to a 8mm lug, and there's a wire with a ring on it that hooks up to the D+ lug on the alternator.Leave a comment:

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