Torque spec for studs that hold cam trays

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  • dude8383
    Forum Sponsor
    • Jan 2005
    • 10387

    #1

    Torque spec for studs that hold cam trays

    In the process of putting the head together I realized that I can't find any torque specs for these studs!

    They were removed when the machine shop did some work for me.

    Anyways, what is the correct torque spec and should add some kind of thread locker to them?

    Last but not least...where the hell do you guys get your torque spec info?!
    IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
  • PiercedE30
    R3V Elite
    • Apr 2005
    • 4220

    #2
    Here's what I do. Put the ratchet in your balled up hand (like a fist) with the extension/socket coming out between your middle and ring finger. Then get the nut as tight as you can that way. It usually works out to being somewhere around 25-30 in lbs I believe.
    My 2.9L Build!

    Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
    There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

    Comment

    • dude8383
      Forum Sponsor
      • Jan 2005
      • 10387

      #3
      Originally posted by PiercedE30
      Here's what I do. Put the ratchet in your balled up hand (like a fist) with the extension/socket coming out between your middle and ring finger. Then get the nut as tight as you can that way. It usually works out to being somewhere around 25-30 in lbs I believe.
      I think you may have misunderstood. The studs were removed from the head when it was bead blasted. I'm trying to figure out what the torque spec is for the stud itself.

      http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...1&fg=15&hl=117

      #9

      If you're saying that I need to get the nut on the stud (going to need two in order to tighten it) then obviously I'll do it like you said :)

      Not sure we're on the same page but hopefully the the pic on realoem will help.
      IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

      Comment

      • jlevie
        R3V OG
        • Nov 2006
        • 13530

        #4
        There's isn't a torque spec for a head stud, no is thread locker needed. You each stud in until it bottoms out
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

        • matt
          No R3VLimiter
          • Oct 2003
          • 3731

          #5
          You don't torque a stud, you torque the nut installed onto it. Thread in the studs by hand until they bottom out. Don't tighten them against the bottom of their hole.

          Comment

          • dude8383
            Forum Sponsor
            • Jan 2005
            • 10387

            #6
            Originally posted by matt
            You don't torque a stud, you torque the nut installed onto it. Thread in the studs by hand until they bottom out. Don't tighten them against the bottom of their hole.
            Cool.

            Thanks man!
            IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

            Comment

            • PiercedE30
              R3V Elite
              • Apr 2005
              • 4220

              #7
              Oh, my bad. Yea. Like Matt said, make sure they don't bottom out in their hole. If you try and just get them as even as possible, you should be good.
              My 2.9L Build!

              Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
              There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

              Comment

              • matt
                No R3VLimiter
                • Oct 2003
                • 3731

                #8
                Get a bootleg copy of the TIS for torque specs BTW.

                Comment

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