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    #31
    Most likely as the US S50 is really a stroked M50 with camset.

    Hey, I got my booster in. i ended up using a 325ix booster because EAP had it in stock new where nobody else seemed to be able to get the 320i one. It looks just like a regular booster except the mount on the back is offset a pretty good deal. I wonder how that actuator works inside that bend?
    Im now E30less.
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      #32
      Originally posted by Ryan Stewart
      Most likely as the US S50 is really a stroked M50 with camset.

      Hey, I got my booster in. i ended up using a 325ix booster because EAP had it in stock new where nobody else seemed to be able to get the 320i one. It looks just like a regular booster except the mount on the back is offset a pretty good deal. I wonder how that actuator works inside that bend?
      does the 325ix booster require no modifications unlike the 320 and 2002 boosters?

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        #33
        I have been told that you need to trim off some extra plastic off the manifold.

        It should fit without modifications because it has the E30 shaft. On the other boosters the mod is the shaft, you have to shorten it on the 320 and change it completely on the 2002 booster.

        The offset on this lowers the booster a bit. Hopefully that is enough because its a full size booster. I am going to install them this weekend in preperation of the swap. I will post if I think I can tell a difference with the 3.5 MC.
        Im now E30less.
        sigpic

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          #34
          your ix booster has a single chamber? Mine is like two little brake boosters stacked on each other. I don't believe that it's offset either :?
          I'm still trying to get the chart working for you, too. I need it for mine as well :evil: :?:

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            #35
            no its like two boosters. the one in the front being slightly smaller. The neck that mounts to the firewall makes the booster sit lower by about 1/4"
            Im now E30less.
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              #36
              I have the 320i booster. Before I attempted to install it I did not know the shaft was too long. I suppose I will have it shortened and retapped, or just have the conector welded on.

              The last three things I have to do are mod the booster, do hoses and wiring, and find the right drive shaft

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                #37
                If you're looking for an e30 m3 driveshaft, cheades has one i think hes letting go for 200, but i cant remember for sure.

                Any ideas on where to get the software for the m3 cam swap?

                I'd rather not spend 300, but i will if i have to i suppose

                also, where the hell are you guys getting your tranny and motor mounts? I'd rather go for new ones just because, i cant really find them anywhere.... i suppose i should go to bmw though... heh

                Can anybody hook me up with some part numbers for the radiator mounting, what all do you need?

                http://rust.mine.nu/bmw/showparts.do...05&x=273&y=172

                is it just part numbers 6,7,9 that you need or what?

                Doing something M50 related? -> http://www.addissimo.com
                On Myspace? ->http://groups.myspace.com/r3vlimited
                BF2142 SN = BillyGoose

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                  #38
                  Thanks for bringing back this thread.

                  FYI, I just bolted my Getrag 260 up to the m50 and found out that the bottom 4 bolts don't even come close to lining up. I'm sure people have run into this before, I'm just suprised that I've never seen it mentioned.

                  I'm probably dropping the motor in tonight or tomorrow, then comes the fun stuff with wiring and whatnot.

                  Is the in-tank fuel pump sufficient enough with the M50?


                  As far as cost goes, I'd recommend setting aside at least $2k to do the M50 swap, I've spent a lot more than I originally expected, but I think it will be well worth it in the end. I'm also replacing all my brakes and brake lines
                  '91 318is
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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Brew
                    I'd recommend setting aside at least $2k to do the M50 swap, I've spent a lot more than I originally expected, but I think it will be well worth it in the end. I'm also replacing all my brakes and brake lines
                    I have spent almost 4 k on mine.

                    Get the 84/85 318i driveshaft, be sure it was one from a car with an automatic, this for the guys using the e36 five speed, not the Getrag 260, I am not sure if it would be the same. For the e36 trans guys, the front section of the driveshaft should be 26.25 inches from the back edge of the trans flange to the mounting hole of the support bearing. As for the rear section i think it is th same for all e30 cars, at 33 inches.

                    Wiring on my early 318i was easy becasue there are only aboutu ten wires to handle, if you have a car that has an engine-to body plug, unlike the early 318i, I would call AKG or Zionsville and see how much an adapter would be, I know AKG has them, but dunno how much for.

                    As for the fuel system, just check your pressure and the e30 pumps should be fine.

                    If you are using the e30 m20 transmission and flywheel, you must use the m20 starter. If you do this you will notice that the e36 starter has two small connectors, where as the e30 m20 starter has only one. Just combine the two smaller connectors on the one, you will have to change the little connector end, because the post is made for the larger of the two.

                    On my car there is a single wire, aobut 10 guage I guess, that comes from the fuse box to the positive post of the battery. just leave this connected as normal and open up the black casing for the waring harness, the rectangluar box. You will see a large red wire that comes from the battery side and splits into two wires, one goes to the starter and the other would normallly go to the e36 body-power-supply. You can just nip the one that does not go to the starter and tape it off

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                      #40
                      Holy crap, the early 318i automatic driveshaft is good for something?

                      I have one lying around.

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                        #41
                        yeah that is the shaft I used.

                        If you use the e36 transmission the e36 shifter carrier and all will work, just be sure the connector arm from the selector to the trans has the bent part going upwards, I found out the hard way that the clearance is tight, it knocked all the DS bolts off!!
                        I am also going to replace the e36 selector with one that has a bend, the shifits are tight and quock, but I have to reach forward too much. the 318i selector is the same length and has a bent shaft, so...


                        So far I have not installed a fan, but you can use the e30 one, the four bolt one. I will mostlikely use an electric fan though, every pony counts.

                        A Magna flow SS muffler alone has prvoen to be far too loud for my taste. I installed a high flow cat to try to make it a little quiter, but that did nothing but kill a few horses. When the VANOS retards the intake timing not only do you get a nice push you will also hear a very raspy exhaust note.

                        All in all the 3.73 LSD I have feels nice, I have redlined in fifth a few times and it feels like there should be five more gears, pulls very strong.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by kylebes1
                          If you are using the e30 m20 transmission and flywheel, you must use the m20 starter. If you do this you will notice that the e36 starter has two small connectors, where as the e30 m20 starter has only one. Just combine the two smaller connectors on the one, you will have to change the little connector end, because the post is made for the larger of the two.
                          both the m50 and m20 starters have the 3 different sized threads

                          For the oil pan not lining up with the tranny, on the swaps I've done, I drilled a hole in the oil pan and just bolted it to the bellhousing

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                            #43
                            the one i installed has only one relatively small one, there is the positive and ground, and the one small connetor where as the m50 one has an extra small one that would go to the unloader relay that kills the headlights while the starter is going, but i dunno which e30s have that.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by Brew
                              FYI, I just bolted my Getrag 260 up to the m50 and found out that the bottom 4 bolts don't even come close to lining up. I'm sure people have run into this before, I'm just suprised that I've never seen it mentioned.
                              Interesting. Does it look like there are holes on the block where the E36 tranny would bolt up on the bottom? Was there a big gap or did it at least seal the area?

                              I helped my friend bolt up his tranny on his Jeep CJ5 last weekend and 1/4 of his flywheel was exposed. I guess there is a plate that covers the area, but I guess it just gets damaged and causes more problems. My concern was dirt and debrit, but I guess he was not concerned about that. I suppose when a flywheel's running at 2000 rpm, it won't get very dirty.
                              -Brandon
                              '86 325es S50
                              '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                              '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                              '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                              For sale:
                              S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by Beej '86 325es
                                Originally posted by Brew
                                FYI, I just bolted my Getrag 260 up to the m50 and found out that the bottom 4 bolts don't even come close to lining up. I'm sure people have run into this before, I'm just suprised that I've never seen it mentioned.
                                Interesting. Does it look like there are holes on the block where the E36 tranny would bolt up on the bottom? Was there a big gap or did it at least seal the area?

                                I helped my friend bolt up his tranny on his Jeep CJ5 last weekend and 1/4 of his flywheel was exposed. I guess there is a plate that covers the area, but I guess it just gets damaged and causes more problems. My concern was dirt and debrit, but I guess he was not concerned about that. I suppose when a flywheel's running at 2000 rpm, it won't get very dirty.
                                Nah, there isn't any gap. The oil pan comes all the way down to the bottom edge of the tranny, its just none of the holes line up.

                                Everything between the block and the transmission lines up, its just the e34 oil pan that is the issue.
                                '91 318is
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