I know everyone says to use either the E36 radiator or M42 radiator but why not just hook up the fill hose from the spider hose to the stock coolant res? Or would that just be filled with air fun?
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Can I use my late model 325 radiator?
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wtf would you use the plastic-neck-crack-prone e36 rad???
i run late e30 325i one with no probs, with e36 rad hoses and the stock clutch fan that was on the s50
read up on bleeding procedure, as you won't have the bleeding screw with this setup
EDIT: i just re-read teh second part of your question - what does res adn spider hose have to do with rad??? it's a separate deal AFAIK
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Originally posted by static View Postwtf would you use the plastic-neck-crack-prone e36 rad???
i run late e30 325i one with no probs, with e36 rad hoses and the stock clutch fan that was on the s50
read up on bleeding procedure, as you won't have the bleeding screw with this setup
EDIT: i just re-read teh second part of your question - what does res adn spider hose have to do with rad??? it's a separate deal AFAIK
The spider hose (#7) hooks up to the E36 radiator in 2 ways. IIRC the bottom of the 2 is the one I now want to hook up to my stock E30 res right?
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
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bleeding:
essentially, have the car cold, jack up the front of the car, open the res cap, start the car, keep it high idle until you see steam rising from inside of the res. Keep an eye on the temp gauge once in a while, if you see it approaching the middle, shut down the car and wait overnight or so. Repeat the procedure couple of more times. Your guide whether it's bled should be constant stream of coolant rushing from the tiny nozzle right below the res cap (you'll see what i am talking about once you do it) as opposed to the intermittent coolant/air stuff shooting from that nozzle when you just start bleeding.
Don't forget to turn the heater knob all the way HOT on your heater control unit to open the heater valve.
Oh and high-idle = you pressing on throttle to maintain around 2-2.5krpm idle
have fun
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