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    EWS II problem

    Well i think its a EWS problem, maybe my shitty wiring. Its a S50B30 euro with EWS II.
    I have used the original key and ignition barrel, but also kept the one from the S50(with the chip and sender ring) when i turn the key(e30 key) to start the ignition it works fine, only cranks while I turn the key as soon as i let go its stops. But when I put the key in the sender ring to disable the EWS relay the starter just keeps trying to cranck non stop until i put the key out, but this is even without turning it, so basically as soon as I hear the sender relay click the starter just has these short bursts of trying to start the motor. I hav't connected the starter to the gearbox yet(as i don't have one)but this shoul't be the problem, should it?
    sigpic
    '89' E30 with Euro S50B30

    #2
    I would go with the latter (shitty wiring).

    This is what I did on my S50B32, not sure it is the same on the B30. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9&postcount=21

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      #3
      Thats the page i followed, not sure why it does that. I have a aftermarket immobilizer, would that interfere?
      Still not real sure about the green wires, I have two, a thick green one and a thin one. Do I need to connect both of these?
      sigpic
      '89' E30 with Euro S50B30

      Comment


        #4
        aftermarket immobilizer? alarm?

        thick green is a starter wire (either to or from the EWS box), thin green is a signal of some sort. There is an alternate EWS if you scroll to the bottom of that post. You might need to break out the ETK and follow wires.

        Comment


          #5
          Sounds like you wired the starter circuit in wrong, like you've run your ignition barrel and EWS in parallel, not series. So now, if either lines are bridged, your starter motor is activated.
          If you just snipped the starter motor circuit through the EWS module, you'll be sweet (make sure its the right wire!)
          Does that make sense?
          Last edited by btec116; 07-18-2008, 07:16 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Oh and get rid of that aftermarket immobilizer, they're an absolute disaster. And its kinda redundant now, isnt it?!?!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by btec116 View Post
              Sounds like you wired the starter circuit in wrong, like you've run your ignition barrel and EWS in parallel, not series. So now, if either lines are bridged, your starter motor is activated.
              If you just snipped the starter motor circuit through the EWS module, you'll be sweet (make sure its the right wire!)
              Does that make sense?
              Not really sure what you mean by series, I just conected the EWS wire to the correspnding wire. Sorry can you try and explain it. I think I sorta know what you mean but where would I cut the wire?Do you mean not connect the starter motor wire?
              sigpic
              '89' E30 with Euro S50B30

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by mck View Post
                Not really sure what you mean by series, I just conected the EWS wire to the correspnding wire. Sorry can you try and explain it. I think I sorta know what you mean but where would I cut the wire?Do you mean not connect the starter motor wire?
                Where do your wires from pins 1 and 3 of the EWS module run to? These pins are joined through a switch in the EWS that is active when EWS is disabled (ie, engine runs) and broken when EWS is enabled (engine doesn't run).

                It sounds like you have your starter wired through these pins and straight to the power distribution box (which is wrong), in which case your starter motor would be constantly on for as long as EWS is disabled.

                So whats your wiring doing then?

                Comment


                  #9
                  As for those two green wires,
                  The thick one should come from your barrel (the one you use to crank) to the EWS. The thin green one goes from EWS to the DME and carries the "go" signal.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    FYI...

                    Mark D'Sylva can delete EWS from the Euro Siemens DME's as long as software version is 3.18. This is not rumor, I have actually verified that he can do this.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by btec116 View Post
                      Where do your wires from pins 1 and 3 of the EWS module run to? These pins are joined through a switch in the EWS that is active when EWS is disabled (ie, engine runs) and broken when EWS is enabled (engine doesn't run).

                      It sounds like you have your starter wired through these pins and straight to the power distribution box (which is wrong), in which case your starter motor would be constantly on for as long as EWS is disabled.

                      So whats your wiring doing then?
                      My starter wire(Thick Black/Yellow) is spliced into the starter wire(Thick Black which later changes into black/yellow after the connection plug) from the ignition barrel.

                      The ignition(Thick Green/Black) is spliced into the ignition barrel harness(Thick Green), there is also a thick green/violet, but I left that alone.

                      The thin green wire is not connected to anything at the moment, because i was trying to see if it made a difference connected or not, but didnt.

                      Im using the original E30 ignition barrel. I will have the key and the transmitter(aerial ring from M3) taped together in position under the dash.

                      Thanks for your help and patience with this as well.
                      sigpic
                      '89' E30 with Euro S50B30

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