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temp gauge not working...bleeding coolant....first drive HELP

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    temp gauge not working...bleeding coolant....first drive HELP

    Do I need to use the temp sensor from the engine I pulled out of the car? I have the stock m50 sensor and my gauge is not going anywhere.

    From my temp gauge not working I am not sure if the cooling system is working correctly or if there is air in the system.

    I have heat.... Had a bunch of coolant come out of the rad overflow tank and now it seems to be holding. I am running a m42 radiator btw.

    To bleed the system I have been adding fluid and have the bleed screw open. I am not sure if the thermostat has opened yet. There was no hole drilled in my thermostat when I put it in. Kind of wishing I would have done that when I put it in.

    This is the first time driving my car so I am a little scared to not hurt it. Also just got it back from the exhaust and I have some nasty rasp or rattles. I am thinking it is more a rattle (header on the sub frame than the exhaust) as it only really happens when I really get on it. So I am not all that happy about that either.

    I am a little upset at the moment and hope I didn't hurt anything...

    TIA,
    Jake
    www.classicdaily.net
    1970 m42 swapped 2002
    1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)

    www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs

    Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
    https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC

    #2
    I guess this teaches me to search..... I searched a little and found that I do need the e30 sensor.

    Looks like my exhaust is fitting the heat shield around the control arm. Can I just ditch that?

    Should I pull the thermostat and drill a hole in the top of it or just keep trying to bleed it?
    www.classicdaily.net
    1970 m42 swapped 2002
    1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)

    www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs

    Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
    https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC

    Comment


      #3
      You shouldn't need to drill a hole in the thermostat
      I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

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      Delta Auto Care
      2875-C Towerview Road
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        #4
        im having similar problems as well... im thinking about pulling the thermostat altogether and running without it
        1991 318is nv m50 : brilliantrot

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          #5
          you need more patiences with the bleeding, it takes at least 1/2 hour, what t stat are you guys running?

          Comment


            #6
            The cooling issue seems to be ok now. I am sitting just below half when driving. If I idle for very long it gets above half, the fan turns on and it cools down. So that is working...


            I am running a 80 C stat.

            My issue now is this cray rasp/vibration/rattle from the exhuast when I really get on it.
            www.classicdaily.net
            1970 m42 swapped 2002
            1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)

            www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs

            Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
            https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by windsor318is View Post
              you need more patiences with the bleeding, it takes at least 1/2 hour, what t stat are you guys running?
              i pulled the thermostat out and the m***a f***er still overheats. you say it takes a half an hour?

              ive tried running it till it got hot, opened the rad cap and bleeder screw which both spit out hot coolant. ive even warmed up the engine with both rad cap and bleeder screw open, again resulting in spewing coolant. wtf else do i have to do??? i can barely drive my car for 5 minutes without it shooting straight up to full hot..
              1991 318is nv m50 : brilliantrot

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