Anyone care to double check my wiring?

[JGood]

Thanks for the heads up. The car was actually started life as an automatic, then I did a five speed conversion with single mass 325e parts a few years ago, so I should be good to go.

[Jason89i]

Next question(s):
............ What about the TOB, pivot fork, and slave cylinder? And as for m20 stuff, do single mass 325e parts work, too?

I have a good flywheel/clutch assembly in my 325e (single mass) and also have a good clutch assembly already bolted to the m50. I don't have an e36 starter though. Which route would you recommend?

sounds like you have it figured out. but, just a heads up on the older "e" cars.

some "e" cars had dual mass flywheels. i have found that SOME of the g265's are different than the "i" or single mass flywheel cars. going from "e" dual mass to single mass can be trickey. read to the end..... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ghlight=CLUTCH

cheers, jason

[FredK]

I think the mnemonic I developed was silver = supply. So, black = return for the fuel lines. But if it doesn't start, I disavow any responsibility.

[JGood]

Awesome, thanks for clearing all that up!

Are my motor mounts on right? (see pics below)

Which fuel line is which? Also, there is a coolant hose that kind of goes near the heater core pipes, but isn't facing the firewall, it runs parallel to it... I have a pic that shows it below.

I just remembered I have to get my flywheel machined to clear the pan, I may just try to grind the pan so that I don't have to deal with that huge holdup.

I was originally going to just swap in a good 220k mile b25 to replace this 250k mile b27 that is on it's last leg (burning 1qt every 500 miles or so)... but I ended up getting this motor for free... and so far the only things I've paid for are the headers, m42 radiator, the e28 mounts, and I'll have to pay the exhaust shop.

Here's a bunch pics I took tonight of my new garage I just got, and some random motor pics:

[FredK]

I have an m42 radiator on the way. What hoses are considered best for this? M20 lower and cut m50 upper?

I used an M50 lower and a hose from Advance Auto, some random GM hose or something cut down to size. I could have used the M50 hose but I cut it too short. It's also HELL to squeeze it onto the thermostat housing because the flanged, larger diameter section gets cut off in order to fit it properly.

How am I going to have to jimmy rig this thing to my early model rad support?

Use some rubber bumpers, maybe like subwoofer mounting feet, on the lower rad mounts, and use a late model upper bracket. Beej 86 325es used some bolts, washers, and rubber stoppers to get his radiator to the right height. Or, you can weld on the proper late model expansion tank brackets, but I guarantee you'll be waiting for parts from Germany for a few weeks.

What about all the random ass hoses hanging off the engine... there's all kinds of shit there. Looks like they go to where the airbox was. I should have taken pics of this thing in the car...

BIGCRY. FREDK DON'T CARE.

Just kidding. On an M50, you can use the realoem diagrams for the most part to determine where the hoses go. Essentially, the spider hose is the most important hose. It goes from the timing cover to the heater inlet, and also branches off in the middle to the expansion tank (goes on the M42 lower fitting) and the throttle body.

A small diameter hose returns the coolant from the throttle body back to the head on a small brass fitting. There is an odd looking coil of hoses that goes to the where the airbox goes, and terminates in a plastic/brass thermostat-lookin' thing, but you can remove this hose.

Nice thing is I have a 4 day weekend off of work, so from Thursday night til Monday night, I'd like to get this thing running. I have 2 other vehicles to use, but one is a gutted track car and the other gets 13 mpg :(

Well, you're not totally up the creek, then. :D But it sure lights a fire under your ass to get things done!

Good luck JGood.

[JGood]

Its possible for a weekend, there are always stupid little things you may end up needing to get, but i had mine running a driving in a weekend, just didnt get exhaust finished. What cooling setup are you going with and which booster? I installed the booster prior to the actual swap.

I just finished making my wiring adapter tonight. Headers will be here tomorrow, I'll drop it off at the exhaust shop after the swap is done for the rest (magnaflow cat, borla muffler, 2.5" stainless piping).

I'm gonna use an e21 booster which I'm picking up Wednesday, and probably just bore out the clevis pin to make the job quicker and easier.

I have an m42 radiator on the way. What hoses are considered best for this? M20 lower and cut m50 upper? How am I going to have to jimmy rig this thing to my early model rad support?

What about all the random ass hoses hanging off the engine... there's all kinds of shit there. Looks like they go to where the airbox was. I should have taken pics of this thing in the car...

Nice thing is I have a 4 day weekend off of work, so from Thursday night til Monday night, I'd like to get this thing running. I have 2 other vehicles to use, but one is a gutted track car and the other gets 13 mpg :(

[EtaSport]

Its possible for a weekend, there are always stupid little things you may end up needing to get, but i had mine running a driving in a weekend, just didnt get exhaust finished. What cooling setup are you going with and which booster? I installed the booster prior to the actual swap.

[JGood]

Cool, thanks. I'll go with the m20 stuff. Just ordered new flywheel and PP bolts (I can't believe I remembered to do that).

I'm interested to see if I can get every single part ahead of time and do the swap in a weekend. It worked with my 5 speed swap, but this is a bit more involved!

[EtaSport]

Found this...

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=96771&highlight=throw+bearing

So I guess I answered my question regarding using the single mass 325e parts.

What if I want to use the m50 clutch/flywheel that's already on the engine? Can I still use the 325e TOB and slave?

I've checked several part numbers from bma/fap99 and I always come up with the throw-out bearings being the same for e30 or e36, m20 or m50. I have used s50 throwout bearings as well as m20 with several different clutches. works fine. I'd run the single mass stuff and starter. If you have the big case style starter you will need to shave a mount casting off the block but it will work.

I switched from an s50 clutch (which I really liked but damn stiff pedal) to an m20 single mass and the accel. was better, a little bit of idle bump, but it holds power just fine.

[JGood]

Found this...

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=96771&highlight=throw+bearing

So I guess I answered my question regarding using the single mass 325e parts.

What if I want to use the m50 clutch/flywheel that's already on the engine? Can I still use the 325e TOB and slave?

[JGood]

Next question(s):

From what I understand, I can use either the m50 clutch/flywheel/PP or the m20 stuff, as long as the starter matches. What about the TOB, pivot fork, and slave cylinder? And as for m20 stuff, do single mass 325e parts work, too?

I have a good flywheel/clutch assembly in my 325e (single mass) and also have a good clutch assembly already bolted to the m50. I don't have an e36 starter though. Which route would you recommend?

[JGood]

Well, I guess I was thinking of making the "CHECK" thing flash, right in the bottom center. Oh well, I'm sure it's much easier just to throw a bulb in.

[EtaSport]

85 right.. your car shouldnt have a cel, mine doesnt.

[JGood]

Sweet, thanks. Is there an easy way to tap into our actual CEL for that?

[EtaSport]

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I was at every Susq SCCA event this year. I probably will be next year too, stop by and say hi if you ever come out again.





What exactly do you mean here, by tap right into it? You mean leave it wired as is, but x20 pin 20 should tap into it?

Yes, I would like a CEL...

Yes, you can leave it hooked up and just 'tie' into it. As for the check engine light it is activated by a ground wire (i believe it is pin 8 ) its a grey wire. All you need to do is find a spare cluster bulb and socket (like the park brake light) and give it 12 volts key on power, run the other side of the wire to that grey wire and you should be good.