Master Cylinders and Brake Boosters

[thull]

If it takes you hours to work with fiberglass to do this mod then you have no business working with fiberglass to begin with. Plus $20 in fiberglass / paint or $75-180+ in brake booster? I already have all the tools and fiberglass products left over from my body work so this mod is free to me.

BTW.. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...&postcount=117

Well if you do the job right it would take plenty of time: cutting the manifold, fiberglassing it, let it cure, sand it, prep it, prime it, paint it, let it dry, do another coat, let it dry, install, and then hope that it actually turns out nice vs looking like it was slapped together in an hour or so.

Personally I'd rather do the brake mods - with an S50 swap you need better brakes anyways.

[RobertK]

Well if you do the job right it would take plenty of time: cutting the manifold, fiberglassing it, let it cure, sand it, prep it, prime it, paint it, let it dry, do another coat, let it dry, install, and then hope that it actually turns out nice vs looking like it was slapped together in an hour or so.

Personally I'd rather do the brake mods - with an S50 swap you need better brakes anyways.

Honestly cutting plastic and molding UV reactive fiberglass is not that big of a task. Neither is sanding or using spray paint.

Otherwise, if I was really concerned about having better brakes for my M50/S50 swap I would do it right and go 5 lug swap. Changing out the brake booster and MC will never compensate for bigger calipers with more surface area.

[rs4pro3]

Honestly I lucked out in how well my ITB setup works, and have to somewhat agree with Matt about doing acoustical tuning, of course this is from the engineering point of view. But as always sometimes just because it works on paper dosn't mean it works in real life. Like with my ITB setup I ended up going 4 inches shorter with the runners then what I calculated as the proper length, but then again maybe I calculated it wrong. But I don't care as it works:D