Euro S50 Intake Manifold - Can't get back on

[Kovs]

So I noticed my car was running rich and decided to take off the manifold to replace the rubber boots going to the runners (the old ones were cracked) and put in a new temperature sensor (located at the bottom of the manifold). And now I'm having a hell of a time putting it back on.

I left the smaller clamps loose that mount the rubber boots to the intake runners so I could make adjustments and match up the holes to the studs on the throttle bodies. I also made sure that the runners were specific to the cylinder (1 & 3 are different than 2,4, & 6). But no matter what I do it seems impossible to get all the runners on the studs - I've gotten 2 - 6, but then 1 would not go on, and I've gotten 1, 2, 5, & 6 but then 3 & 4 won't go on. In both cases it seems I'm off by a hair. No amount of manuevering seems to make it go.

The clearances ARE tight in an E30, but what I am missing??

Thanks in advance.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Was there a large temprature difference between when it came off and tried to go back on? I have had that problem with other cast type manifolds.

[Kovs]

Was there a large temprature difference between when it came off and tried to go back on? I have had that problem with other cast type manifolds.

Give or take 10 degrees, but nothing huge. What did you use to mitigate the temperature change?

[Farbin Kaiber]

Give or take 10 degrees, but nothing huge. What did you use to mitigate the temperature change?

Mild expansion/contraction (In southern California 120deg F days, 70deg F evenings/ Direct sun/Night variations) caused enough to not be able to slide a manifold onto the studs many times.

Once, we used a heat gun, (large industrial hair dryer of doom) and blasted the manifold mounting surface for ten min, then it slipped right on the studs without even rubbing on them.

Maybe even try a regular hair dryer and warm up the surfaces.

[Kovs]

Mild expansion/contraction (In southern California 120deg F days, 70deg F evenings/ Direct sun/Night variations) caused enough to not be able to slide a manifold onto the studs many times.

Once, we used a heat gun, (large industrial hair dryer of doom) and blasted the manifold mounting surface for ten min, then it slipped right on the studs without even rubbing on them.

Maybe even try a regular hair dryer and warm up the surfaces.

So you blasted the runner surfaces or the throttle body surfaces? Thx!!

[Farbin Kaiber]

So you blasted the runner surfaces or the throttle body surfaces? Thx!!

In my case it was not a ITB related application, but I'd assume it would be the same, Because something IS tight, you would not want to heat both surfaces, because you would end up in the same boat as before, just try one surface, and preferably the one that is easiest to move around and get heated up.

[MDryVur]

lol... wd40 the mother fucker.. hahaha.. jk.. but seriously +1 on the heat gun.. makes a lot of sense.

[Kovs]

In my case it was not a ITB related application, but I'd assume it would be the same, Because something IS tight, you would not want to heat both surfaces, because you would end up in the same boat as before, just try one surface, and preferably the one that is easiest to move around and get heated up.

This worked! After 5 minutes of heating the runners mated up to the ITBs with little effort. Thanks again.

[Farbin Kaiber]

This worked! After 5 minutes of heating the runners mated up to the ITBs with little effort. Thanks again.

Well, I'm glad it worked. And somebody out there asked if I ever did anything for the e30 community. Hah! It's good to know all the little tidbits of knowledge I've stored really do/may come in handy for someone, someday.

[dpgrand]

i'm storing this in my mind for future reference if I ever have this problem....

reminds me of what my uncle says "you either need heat or a larger hammer" lol