If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I keep finding people talking about back feeding on th O2 circuit, so I isolated the 2 wires by use of relay. Also poured over hours of notes and research recheck adapter harness. I think I have solved it put everything backin order. I drive it last night and it is just raping the pavment...went to my pratice lot and ripped a good 15 min session and just was flawless. Today I pull out of garage and and get on Highway and feels like fuel cut at 4500ish rpm. WTF what am I missing.
there is some back-feeding to the O2 from a direct 13-13 connection. I used a relay to power the e36 13 pin and used the e30 pin 13 to trigger the relay. I seem to have solved issue thus far. I can say to try it and see if it helps you. I have been digging thru the archives trying to find where the problem is but there is no definitive response.
this just came to my head--back in the good ol days of 500+ hp DSMs there was a guide on free Hp. One of the things in this guide was to relay your fuel pump closer to the pump and directly to the battery. -- Now I don`t know if you have updated your pump to a 255lph yet so I am assuming not. But if your pump is not able to keep up with demand at WOT it will cause a lean condition at higher RPMs.
A thing to think about also is --if your engine was sitting for a long period before installing. You might just have a slight varnish issue in fuel system, google DIY injector cleaning.
pulled wires in harness could be also making intermittent contact. Runs great one day and the following day hesitates at 4800WOT, but if I ease up there it goes but lack of power. Today --raping the pavement again, feels unbeatable.
I am almost thinking that the DME just needs to set it long term trims and then things will be fine.
I think I solved it. The relay wasn't turning on for the heater so I jumped the switched 12v from the main relay to the o2 sensor relay. That with a combination of a shitty seal off my headers causes the problem. So far no check engine light.
I think I solved it. The relay wasn't turning on for the heater so I jumped the switched 12v from the main relay to the o2 sensor relay. That with a combination of a shitty seal off my headers causes the problem. So far no check engine light.
any pics of the wiring? i think ill be doing the same thing..
bumpin this thread up guys. My cars running like crap and I'm getting o2 sensor heating codes. I don't totally understand what is being described here- o2 not heating up or interference or both? - please elaborate for a wiring newbie.
Where is the o2 relay located? in the underhood fusebox? Which one is it?
I didn't build my adapter, so my knowlege here is limited.
Hopefully I can get this thing running well soon.
thanks
Comment