s54 swap no fuel issue

[MartynT]

I don't think whoever did your EWS delete knew what they were doing. All you have to do is change two bytes and EWS isn't needed at all. Also most of those error codes should have been disabled as well.

I wouldn't fool around with an EWS module / pin 33 - get the DME flashed by somebody more familiar with MSS54.

I converted and coded the ECU for Dave, I have what I call a good knowledge of the MSS52 and MSS54. I even wrote an application to allow those with 'less' knowledge to adjust things themselves without having to delve into the hex.



As you can see, byte 8A has been set to a non zero value, thus disabling EWS.



With regard to the unsuppressed DTCs, I never suppress DTCs on the first flash as I like to ensure that the car starts / runs first. DTCs can then be suppressed as required, all of which I have explained to Dave. It's pointless 'blanket' suppressing DTCs as every conversion is different.

There are 2 DTCs in Dave's screenshots that need attention, the first is the inlet manifold pressure code (which is present as Dave hasn't plumbed in the MAP sensor which is required as part of the CSL software he is running).

The second is not identified correctly by his Delphi software, and that is '0B' which is the intake camshaft signal DTC. Obviously a faulty camshaft position sensor is going to cause problems.

Cheers,

Martyn

[Dave V]

I don't think whoever did your EWS delete knew what they were doing. All you have to do is change two bytes and EWS isn't needed at all. Also most of those error codes should have been disabled as well.

I wouldn't fool around with an EWS module / pin 33 - get the DME flashed by somebody more familiar with MSS54.

I'm not going to be hard on the guy that did it, his main specialty is installing carbon airboxes to e46's from what I can tell so I don't think he really deals with swaps too often, I asked him to do the swap stuff in addition to changing the DME to look for a MAP sensor to run my airbox. He hasn't charged me for anything swap related and he is going over and above on emails. Also PM sent Nando. Thanks for your reply.

[nando]

I don't think whoever did your EWS delete knew what they were doing. All you have to do is change two bytes and EWS isn't needed at all. Also most of those error codes should have been disabled as well.

I wouldn't fool around with an EWS module / pin 33 - get the DME flashed by somebody more familiar with MSS54.

[Dave V]

OK so where I am now.... Plugged the car into Delphi Autocom last night and checked the fault codes. Also compared what was and wasn't working between the e36 and e46 using the same re programmed ecu in both and then the known working unprogrammed ecu in the e46. Crank sensor gave a reading and didn't show a fault so I'm going to rule that out for the moment

MSS54 is e46's ecu and MSS54HP is the e36's ecu.

E36 with MSS54HP:
Won't start - No Fuel no spark no injector pulse and throttle actuator is not moving and the following codes:



E46 with MSS54HP:
Starts but is in limp mode and is difficult to rev but throttle actuator is moving with following codes:



E46 with MSS54:
Starts as normal with the following codes:

Edit: didn't take a picture of this as there was nothing other than a throttle pedal code

I also was in contact with the guy that did the ECU. I'm not familiar with what goes on in the background with editing the BIN files/Hex code or whatever its referred to as but he says he has made changes so that EWS rolling code is no longer required to match between the ECU/DME and the EWS module. I think this means that I will need an EWS module to feed pin 33 of my x60004.

• Is there a way that the DME can be programmed to not have any signal to x60004 or that I could put positive or negative to pin 33 to fufil the DME's need for a signal from EWS?

• Is the DME pin 33 looking for something more complex than a simple positive or negative to start the car that can't be replicated with a couple of relays? (I'm miserable and don't want to buy an EWS unit if I can avoid it and I don't exactly want one either from a point of view of failure/reliability)

[nando]

The only difference is the transmission type code - it's I believe 0x43 for SMG and 0x03 for 6MT (been a long time since I looked at an MSS54 bin, but it's easily found).

However it would start either way, it would just be in limp mode if it's set wrong.

The only thing you need connected to get the coils/injectors to fire is the crank sensor. Seriously - nothing else really matters (not saying it will run well, but everything will fire and it will attempt to start).

[FredK]

I did not hook up a brake or clutch switch.

I'm not sure if there's differences in the SMG vs. manual ECU flashes, though.

If you don't have a signal going to the coils, then I'd look at if you've hooked up the crank position sensor, and if the sensor is faulty.

[Dave V]

Still no start :(

I have fuel pump coming on now, using the output of x6021 to the signal wire to the signal wire on my standard relay.

I still don't have spark or even a signal going to the coils although I do have + and ground at my coil connectors.

The ECU works when I swap it into my e46 m3, car starts albeit in limp mode
(my e36 ecu has programming for a MAP sensor and csl style airbox).

I'm just wondering now is there a minimum of things that need to be connected. I don't have the MAP sensor connected at this stage or oil/coolant temp/pressure.

I just want to get the engine started so that I can continue with tidying everything else up. Whats the minimum that the DME has to see to start the engine? Is there a brake light switch? Clutch? My e46 is SMG so I'm just trying to figure out whats different between the two and in turn whats causing my non starting problem. On the upside I'm enjoying reading build threads on here!

[Dave V]

Ah OK.

Dave, if you're using a normal 4 pole Bosch relay from X6021, you're probably going to hear a mechanical racket from the relay as it is being fed a rapidly switched 12V.

Your best bet, if you're using a regular, non-PWM fuel pump relay, is to use x60004 pin 10 to activate the fuel pump.

I didn't hear a racket it sounded normal, is the pulsing 12v only on US models for EKP module supply?

The problem I was having is the x60004 was not giving me a signal from pin 10 to switch the relay. I was fairly confused when I had two trigger wires for the pump also. I'd like to get to the bottom of pin 10 being dead though. My fear now is that I won't have spark when I try to start it. Anyway I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

[FredK]

The euro car uses a regular relay unlike the US cars, which use the PWM relay.

Interestingly, either pin will work on either DME. you can run a US DME with the standard relay output and it will work with no changes other than wiring.

Ah OK.

Dave, if you're using a normal 4 pole Bosch relay from X6021, you're probably going to hear a mechanical racket from the relay as it is being fed a rapidly switched 12V.

Your best bet, if you're using a regular, non-PWM fuel pump relay, is to use x60004 pin 10 to activate the fuel pump.

[Dave V]

When I say no start I mean I didn't crank long enough to start, the main fuel supply to the rail was pissing fuel everywhere because there was no o ring in place. I got a bit of a fright so I killed it and disconnected the battery.

Just noticed there's an e34 subforum

I hope to put my s50b30 in my e34 when the e36 is done.

[nando]

oh shoot, that's kind of weird that there'd be a difference!

So if the activation signal is from X60004 pin 10 and bypasses X6021, then where is the activation signal being lost?

The euro car uses a regular relay unlike the US cars, which use the PWM relay.

Interestingly, either pin will work on either DME. you can run a US DME with the standard relay output and it will work with no changes other than wiring.

[FredK]

Great!

I would check the injector rail to see if they are firing by using a 12V test light or multimeter.

My experience on first startup was that it took a fairly long time to prime the fuel system. If I were to do it again, I would likely unhook the supply line at the fitting underneath the intake plenum, place the hose into a container, and manually activate the fuel pump until fuel starts flowing. That way you can avoid an extended cranking. I think it might have taken a total of 10 - 15 five second long turns of the key in the ignition to get it to fire, because I was starting from dry.

[Dave V]

Wiring it to the x6021 worked, the pump now runs and cuts out as it should with the ignition on. Still no start, it seems that the previous owner removed the fuel rail and lost the o rings and all of the clips to hold the injectors in but at least the wiring is correct. The funniest thing was I had already marked the x6021 wire with some tape saying it was for the fuel pump, thinking back i was confused that there would be two wires from the ecu to the relay so I would like to know what pin 10 x60004 does.

Andrew, the x60004 wasn't giving out any signal whatsoever, I might disconnect that wire tonight just to see what happens.

Thanks for your input guys.

[FredK]

The fuel pump relay activation signal comes from X60004 pin 10 on the Euro DME and goes to pin 4 on the standard green relay without going through the X6021.

oh shoot, that's kind of weird that there'd be a difference!

So if the activation signal is from X60004 pin 10 and bypasses X6021, then where is the activation signal being lost?

[Dave V]

You should not need to do anything at X60004 pin 33.

The fuel pump signal originates at X60002 pin 11. X60002 pin 11 is connected to a wire that passes through the firewall and connects to the fuel pump relay via X6021. The wire should be Black / Violet.

Depending on which harness you have, X6021 can have a different number of pins, so trace back to X60002 to find the appropriate wire.

Thanks fred, I must have that wired incorrectly then. Hopefully it should start when I try that, will report back!