and my oil pan had the baffle in it but I drilled that off. It still hits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Right. I know and saw that. Mine, engine, looks like this and my oil pan had the baffle in it but I drilled that off. It still hits.
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Thanks bossman. Though I’ve a question for ya. Did the raised part of the oil pan in the rear hit the windage tray on yours? Cuz mine is hitting the windage tray and I don’t know what to do. Should I mill the windage tray to fit or.....give up?
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It's in Jordan's thread here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...83897&t=383897Leave a comment:
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Hey man. I’m doing a m52tub28 swap and need that style oil pickup that you used. Do you still have the part number? Or a connection that I can use to acquire said pickup? Thanks boss.
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You will need to have that section massaged to fit OR have it re-welded. There's no way you'll be to just bolt up the stock midsection.
Or you can go the ebay special route and install some supersprint reps. That will require welding as well...Leave a comment:
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Excellent thread, love the pics, and easy to follow!
Curious to see what you'll do for exhaust.. I have the same issue of the headers getting too close to the subframe with my S50/Zf e30. I'm running the Revshift engine mounts but gonna swap them out for the e28 m5 ones and check clearance. I have obd1 downpipes modified to fit the swap but clearance issues are preventing me from installing them.Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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You won't like that gas pedal sticking out like that, it will be at same level as brake pedalLeave a comment:
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Now you just need to move closer to me so my wife will allow me to come hang out! [emoji102]
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Hey guys, new update from the last couple weekends.
On the 13th, we only had one day working on the e30, but it was fairly productive in the new shop location (my house :) ).
Steve is happy I have A/C in my garage as well:
We got the new grommets for the brake fluid reservoir and got those installed
Started working on the accelerator pedal bracket relocation for the brand new e46 DBW pedal. We ground off the welds and cleaned it up and used JB Weld Steel Stick to move it back a bit.
Ran the new clutch reservoir hose through it's new grommet in the firewall up to the reservoir. We need to figure out how to mount the clutch master cylinder to the pedal bracket. It looks like there are two holes, but they are square, leading me to believe there is some sort of nut or something that is supposed to go in the pedal bracket that the bolts screw into, but we don't have them and I can't find a part number on RealOEM. If anyone has some helpful info on these, let me know.
Went ahead and installed the new stainless brake hoses... well, 4 of the 6. The two over the rear axle are apparently quite difficult to replace and require dropping the subframe to replace them, so we'll hold off on those for now and maybe when we do a diff swap later, we'll take care of them then.
New ABS sensors in the front as well.
Replaced the power steering line from the reservoir to the pump with a brand new one for the M54. You might also see in the picture that I have the T-junction on the coolant hoses, but this is the one that I don't think will work since one end goes straight down. If anyone has some good ideas on how to route the two coolant hoses from the block and heater core to the expansion tank, I'm open to them. I know someone mentioned providing pics of their method before, but I haven't seen them yet. Jordan mentioned the parts needed for the heater hoses, but never showed them completed, so I'm a bit lost here.
That was it for the 13th. The rest are from this past weekend where we had about 1.5 days to work on the car and more parts arrived :).
I started out by installing the new A/C lines from Zionsville
Jeff and Steve were working on putting the carpet back and getting the accelerator pedal installed now that the steel stick had a whole week to cure.
Sparks flying as I had to grind the metal lip on the frame rail to allow the A/C line to fit
We once again rotated the brake booster and I think this time the vacuum hose connection is in a better spot to work with the e39 hose we had. Before it was in the 10 o'clock position, but I think in the 5 o'clock position it will work better as I can route the hose under the brake master cylinder instead of over it to reach without kinks. We could have cut the hose and extended it down and gone over the reservoir, but it would have had a couple clamps and looked a bit less "finished".
Easiest method for tightening the A/C line connection to the condenser, remove the passenger side grill :).
Now that we had all of the front suspension parts from FCP, we got started on swapping those out. Turns out one side control arm still had a BMW stamp on it, but the other one was replaced in 2010. We decided to go ahead and install the brand new Lemforders, new lollipop bushings and sway bar endlinks. To facilitate this, we actually purchased a 12 ton press at Northern Tool, which was a bit complicated at first to figure out the best way to do it, but ended up being a lifesaver in the end.
When installing them in the car, Steve suggested we put some copper anti-seize on the tapered part of the ball joints to facilitate removal in the future if needed. I didn't put any on the threads, but figured that was a pretty good idea.
Trying to figure out how to handle the oil dipstick tube. I wish we could have just bought something that would work out of the box, but I'm thinking we need to modify the M50 one to add the drainback hose connection. I noticed there is a S52 dipstick tube that looks like it would have worked, but the part that goes into the oil pan seems the same size as the M54 tube and I'm guessing it won't fit in the hole. If anyone has any good ideas for this, I'm all ears. Jordan's thread seemed to have overlooked this. I guess we could do an oil catch can mod if we had to, but I would like to keep it working like stock if possible.
Also got the new power steering lines from Zionsville that seemed to work perfectly, yay! No pictures though, unfortunatley.
We test fit the new ECS aluminum M20 radiator and M20 fan and they just fit with a few millimeters to spare. We didn't have the rubber mounting blocks for the radiator to know for sure, but ordered new ones. I'm guessing we accidentally threw out the old ones.
Ok, so things we're still working on figuring out:
Coolant hoses to expansion tank, clutch master cylinder mounting, oil CCV drain hose to dipstick tube, and any remaining wiring that needs to be done. We may just try to get it running, then deal with the A/C control, cruise control (if it's even possible), check engine light, etc.
Thanks for keeping up with our progress! Sorry for the delays in posting, but my day job has been working me really late into the nights lately.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the picture, I was really wondering and it makes sense now. I guess we will need some of those then. Thanks guys and sorry for the confusion.
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^listen to what he's saying.
you will need a set of SAP delete plates on those headers otherwise you'll have an exhaust leak.
i do sell these one ebay (p.s. not trying to get a sale just trying to help).Leave a comment:
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