Thinking of cancelling my S38 swap

[Sharino]

Well I got the temp gauge to work last night, had to install a M20 temp sender and traced the wires back, they needed to be flipped in the two prong connector.

Car came back from the exhaust shop, sounds pretty mean, no cats, only a single Billy Boat muffler! My wife complains she can here me running the engine in a detached garage while she is in the shower! Thinking some inline resonators might help.

Took it for a light spin until I make sure everything is tight, I had every single component off the car so just taking it easy but I do like it so far!

[fronton]

If you have the M20 electric fan lying around, just transfer it's resistor to your puller and wire it the same way it was. You should already have the dual temp plug housing in your stock harness so you shouldn't need to separate or identify which pins do what. This diagram was helpful to me when I was hooking up the resistor since I didn't have a stock electric fan to emulate: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...01#post3758601

[Sharino]

What size resistor? The resistor is inline from the fan motor to the low option on the switch, then a direct line from the fan motor to the high option on switch? The third prong on the switch then gets grounded or do you supply power to it and ground the fan motor?

[fronton]

Thanks, you always have the exact info I need!

The 3 prong dual temp switch, does it have the fan on low/high only or is it off/low/high?

The three prong switch does all three but you need to splice in a resistor to the fan wiring in order for it to use the low option. Otherwise it will either automatically be off or on high with just the dual temp switch and no resistor.

[Sharino]

Thanks, you always have the exact info I need!

The 3 prong dual temp switch, does it have the fan on low/high only or is it off/low/high?

[fronton]

Its in position 2 according to the DE mounts I have.
I used the same radiator as mentioned in this thread from Summit. Thanks for that tip btw!

Car is in the exhaust shop right now getting the headers mated to the billyboat catback. Anxious to see what it will sound like!

Question though, I did not put a temp sensor in the radiator, I believe that is for the electric fan only correct? I am just going to run my electric fan on constant.
I currently do not have the temp gauge in the cluster working? Do I need to take a sensor off an M20 engine like you do for M50 swaps? If so, where can I fit it? Does it fit in the coolant logs beside the exhaust?

You only need a temp sensor in the radiator (or elsewhere in the coolant flow) if you want the fan to be automatic and at a specific temp. There are two ports in the s38b35 rail above the headers. Blue w/two pins is for the DME and brown w/single pin is for the cluster. Running the fan on max at all times will get old and will more often than not be running your engine too cool. I ran the stock engine fan for a while which was not quite adequate for long idles in 80+ temps and switched to 16" puller cued by the snowflake button. That worked okay but monitoring it all the time was annoying. I finally added the stock in-line 3 prong dual temp switch and a stock resistor for automatic dual temp action.

[Sharino]

Its in position 2 according to the DE mounts I have.
I used the same radiator as mentioned in this thread from Summit. Thanks for that tip btw!

Car is in the exhaust shop right now getting the headers mated to the billyboat catback. Anxious to see what it will sound like!

Question though, I did not put a temp sensor in the radiator, I believe that is for the electric fan only correct? I am just going to run my electric fan on constant.
I currently do not have the temp gauge in the cluster working? Do I need to take a sensor off an M20 engine like you do for M50 swaps? If so, where can I fit it? Does it fit in the coolant logs beside the exhaust?

[fronton]

radness. congrats.

[e30m3s54turbo]

Nice engine bay. Looks like your engine sits in position 1 with a custom radiator?

[LJ851]

Just some pictures of the completed engine bay!

Well done !!

Can you make the pics a little larger? S38 looks so at home in the E30 engine bay.

[Sharino]

Just some pictures of the completed engine bay!

[SixerFixer]

Will be drivable by the end of the week!

[Eric]

sweet!

[Sharino]

Well got it running finally tonight. The fuel injectors all got clogged from sitting so long and had rust built up in the fuel rail. cleaned them out and it fires right up.

Just a few final items on the checklist and its ready to go!

[Sharino]

Well its been a long time coming but the car is complete and ready to roll. Everything is back together. Rad is in, brake booster fits, hood closes, oil cooler is done, etc, etc.

Problem is it will not start now!!! I had it running before (just for a few seconds as I had no cooling system) but have since remove and reinstalled the intake manifold, replaced a bunch of vacuum lines, and added the cooling system. I also replaced the dash board, installing a crack free one, hoping I didnt screw something up with the wiring there.

It will crank over, but will not fire. There is spark I confirmed and I put a fuel pressure tester on the fuel line and I am getting approx 50psi. I even swapped the fuel supply/return lines around as I replaced the rubber lines with new ones and thought they might be backwards, but no difference. Any other ideas to check? Does anybody know the voltages I should be getting at the injectors while cracking? Any other ideas?