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    New IX clicking noise

    So I picked up a ix about a week ago and there is a clicking noise. I can only hear it when I am driving with the window down. It is on the drivers side, it happens all the time slow speed high speed it doesn't matter. But sometimes it sounds louder then other times. Any suggestions? Common culprits? Thanks guys!

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    #2
    Might be the front axle, if the cage in the cv joint breaks it will click. Does the clicking intensify when turning?
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    Build Thread
    Rear Diff Rebuild
    Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
    Transfer Case Rebuild
    "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

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      #3
      It is almost lessened when turning it is worst when just driving straight. Sometimes it will be really bad and then in the same situation down the road it wont click, strange

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        #4
        Does it change under acceleration? If it doesn't change when turning it probably isn't the outer joint but it still could be the inner joint.
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        Build Thread
        Rear Diff Rebuild
        Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
        Transfer Case Rebuild
        "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

        Comment


          #5
          Yes it does Change on acceleration. When I drive down the hwy with my window open it clicks like crazy. Can I just put the car on a lift and run it with all 4 wheels of the ground and check that way?

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            #6
            My guess is that its the inner cv joint. The cage probably has a crack in it causing it to click as the cage flexes. I would put it up on the lift and as carefully as you can try to locate the clicking. You might have to have someone do some hard accelerations to get it to click loud enough with no load on the wheels. If it is the cv joint your looking at getting another axle, or rebuilding it if you can find a new cage.
            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Build Thread
            Rear Diff Rebuild
            Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
            Transfer Case Rebuild
            "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

            Comment


              #7
              Ya that is my plan I can have my brother run it while I listen. I have read good things about cvjaxles.com and pretty good prices also for a complete rebuild. Should I send both front axles to them just because or just the one that's is shit?

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                #8
                Whatever gives you the peace of mind, if the cv boots on the other axle are old and you don't want to go through the trouble of changing them why not, then again its only like $25 for the cv boots if you want to change them yourself.
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Build Thread
                Rear Diff Rebuild
                Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
                Transfer Case Rebuild
                "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ya I read that they will click if the boots are worn and water contaminated the grease. Some suggested to clean really good with brake clean then regrease and reboot.

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                    #10
                    So I put it up and ran it with some hard accels and didn't hear anything. I figured I would go ahead and pull the axle after hearing the symptoms. The boot looked brand new and it was packed full of grease. How can I tell if it is cracked? It seems fine I don't hear any click when moving it back and forth.

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                      #11
                      hmm I kinda figured it wouldn't click with no load on the wheels, lets see... I would pull the axle and reconnect the control arm and tie rod, then take it around the block a few times to see if the clicking has stopped. If it does then you know its something in the axle and you can send it off to be rebuild. I wouldn't drive very far without the axle in, its going to put a lot of stress on you viscous coupling in the transfer case and on your hub and wheel bearing. Just enough to see if it clicks. The only real way to check to see if the cage in the inner cv joint is broken is to disassemble the axle. Be careful braking your abs is going to go ape sh!t with no abs ring to read off the axle.
                      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                      Build Thread
                      Rear Diff Rebuild
                      Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
                      Transfer Case Rebuild
                      "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So I drove it without the axle and I believe that is the problem because I definitely didn't notice the noise as much if that makes sense. It almost seems like I wanted to here the noise with the axle out but it wasn't as prominent. Lol like i almost made myself hear what wasn't there. As i don't have the money to get the axle rebuilt right now what will happen if i run it with it clicking? Also Could a wheel bearing be making that noise? Thanks for all the help!

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                          #13
                          Happy to help, you could probably drive for a while with the axle in but the sooner you get it rebuilt the better. The clicking is going to give off metal fillings that are going to increase wear in the joint, and if the cage does break its going to leave you stranded. It could be the wheel bearing but I would think that if it were the clicking would get worse when turning, putting a larger axial load on the bearing. You can check by jacking the car up and trying to wiggle the wheel, seeing if there is any play in the bearing.
                          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                          Build Thread
                          Rear Diff Rebuild
                          Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
                          Transfer Case Rebuild
                          "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            dont drive it very far without an axle holding the wheel bearing together(the front wheel and hub/rotor may soon be leaving the car ) ,the outer C/V and flange nut are the only things that hold the wheel bearing in tension so you are most likely damaging the bearing driving it without it torqued to spec with axle in there.!


                            you can disassemble the axle and just leave the outer C/V joint without balls/cage in the hub torqued to test further or until you find a replacement..
                            Angus
                            88 E30M3 X2
                            89 325IX
                            92 R100GS/PD
                            :)

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                              #15
                              So I lifted the car and pulled on the tire to test the wheel bearing and it seemed pretty solid. I only ask because whenever I turn left I get a small vibration and a humming noise. Also what would be the correct torque for the axle nut?

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