I've had a few questions about this stuff, it should probably be somewhere else besides my stagnant build thread haha:
So here is the T-case rebuild, I actually rebuild it back in January so the details are kind of foggy. If I missed something let me know! Thanks :)
Here is the list of parts I used:
27111224629 Qty(1) Transfer Case Breather Valve
27111224677 Qty(1) Transfer Case Gasket
07119981063 Qty(1) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224637 Qty(1) 8-NEEDLE CAGE
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
27211224636 Qty(1) Transfer Case Seal
27241224660 Qty(2) Front Transfer Case Output Seal
07119981724 Qty(2) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224632 Qty(1) Drive Shaft Seal
27211224634 Qty(1) Collar Nut
27241224662 Qty(1) Snap Ring
23711130502 Qty(1) Rubber Mount
07119963308 Qty(1) Gasket Ring
27111226467 Qty(1) Screw Plug
A few of these items are NLA from BMW, such as some of the bearings, but you can still order them online from companies like Motion Industries.
You will also need a new or good used viscous coupling, see my rebuild a few pages back.
So first things first: Disassembly
I removed the rear output shaft nut, then used a large 3 jaw puller to pull off the output flange. There's a sealant used between the shaft and output flange that can make removal a little difficult.
Next your going to remove all of the 6mm socket head cap screws.
Separate the casing halves. There are two locating dowel pins in the casing. If the casing doesn't separate easily use flat face punch to tap out the dowel pins.
Now pretty much everything just slides apart. To avoid headaches during reassembly, be sure to take pictures and tag/bag all of the small shims, needle bearings, etc.
Use a pry bar to pull the input sprocket, chain, and front output assembly out of the casing.
There is a small snap ring on the input shaft that holds the input shaft in the casing that must be removed. If I remember correctly you have to remove the bearing first before you can reach it, mine came out with the input sprocket.
Its a good idea to measure and record the location of all of your shaft seals at this point.
To remove the VC from the rear output shaft you have to remove this bearing. I had to heat mine to get it to come off. DO NOT loose the shim under the bearing, you need this lol. The thickness is likely going to be different between different transfer cases. As I understand it, the shim basically makes up for any differences in lengths between the rotor assembly and the casing stop faces, similar to the shim found in the rear diff for the pinion depth.
Everything should be disassembled by now, remove all of the bearings left in the casing or on the shafts, also remove all of the old shaft seals, be careful not to scratch the receiving bore. (I left the larger needle bearing in the input sprocket installed, couldn't source a new one)
So here is the T-case rebuild, I actually rebuild it back in January so the details are kind of foggy. If I missed something let me know! Thanks :)
Here is the list of parts I used:
27111224629 Qty(1) Transfer Case Breather Valve
27111224677 Qty(1) Transfer Case Gasket
07119981063 Qty(1) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224637 Qty(1) 8-NEEDLE CAGE
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
27211224636 Qty(1) Transfer Case Seal
27241224660 Qty(2) Front Transfer Case Output Seal
07119981724 Qty(2) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224632 Qty(1) Drive Shaft Seal
27211224634 Qty(1) Collar Nut
27241224662 Qty(1) Snap Ring
23711130502 Qty(1) Rubber Mount
07119963308 Qty(1) Gasket Ring
27111226467 Qty(1) Screw Plug
A few of these items are NLA from BMW, such as some of the bearings, but you can still order them online from companies like Motion Industries.
You will also need a new or good used viscous coupling, see my rebuild a few pages back.
So first things first: Disassembly
I removed the rear output shaft nut, then used a large 3 jaw puller to pull off the output flange. There's a sealant used between the shaft and output flange that can make removal a little difficult.
Next your going to remove all of the 6mm socket head cap screws.
Separate the casing halves. There are two locating dowel pins in the casing. If the casing doesn't separate easily use flat face punch to tap out the dowel pins.
Now pretty much everything just slides apart. To avoid headaches during reassembly, be sure to take pictures and tag/bag all of the small shims, needle bearings, etc.
Use a pry bar to pull the input sprocket, chain, and front output assembly out of the casing.
There is a small snap ring on the input shaft that holds the input shaft in the casing that must be removed. If I remember correctly you have to remove the bearing first before you can reach it, mine came out with the input sprocket.
Its a good idea to measure and record the location of all of your shaft seals at this point.
To remove the VC from the rear output shaft you have to remove this bearing. I had to heat mine to get it to come off. DO NOT loose the shim under the bearing, you need this lol. The thickness is likely going to be different between different transfer cases. As I understand it, the shim basically makes up for any differences in lengths between the rotor assembly and the casing stop faces, similar to the shim found in the rear diff for the pinion depth.
Everything should be disassembled by now, remove all of the bearings left in the casing or on the shafts, also remove all of the old shaft seals, be careful not to scratch the receiving bore. (I left the larger needle bearing in the input sprocket installed, couldn't source a new one)
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