The same pieces that work on RWD cars work on AWD cars... the back ends are the same, with the exception of the iX bushings having a longer snout.
I've been thinking about using a linear bearing in place of the subframe bushings.
The linear bearing would not deform against fore/aft and left/right loads, resulting in more precise placement of the rear end. The linear bearing would slide up and down on a shaft (still no homo) held in place by the subframe mounting bolt. That means that it would move when axle torque is applied. Above and below the linear bearing, install rubber cushions to absorb the torque load from the axle. Leave the stock differential bushing(s) in place.
That results in a system that's stiff for handling forces, but cushions the diff so that it doesn't transmit as much gear noise into the cabin.
Is $1900 to do the rear SubFrame bushings a ridiculous amount?
Collapse
X
-
-
Doing my first water pump and timing belt had my back hurting but it’s almost done and I’m feel so damn accomplished. Excited to keep learning! Gonna take a look at the walkthrough above.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
There's the easy way and the hard way to replace the rear subframe bushings.
With the correct tool, its not even an hour job, without its a matter of either dropping the whole subframe or fiddling with a makeshift tool.
Unfortunately the "correct" tool is a Genuine BMW tool. There was a guy in Canada making his own version a few years ago, but he no longer makes them.
That's why in this case, the dealer might be coming in substantially less expensive.
If someone who works at BMW could provide an ETK of BMW genuine tools with associated part numbers, they would be the real MVP.Leave a comment:
-
in both cases, it is helpful to use a lot of lube.....also....(no homo)Leave a comment:
-
I'll just be a jack ass....and say....
Part of the fun of owning an e30 is working on them. And dropping a subframe, is like getting hazed for a fraternity. It sucks, you might wake up with a sore ass, but at least you know you're in the club. (no homo)Leave a comment:
-
I’ve never done it but if it solves the clunking noise I may be next in line lol! Can’t wait for updates
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
I made my own tool to remove and install the bushings. So far I have done it on 3 of my E30's and It's never taken me over 2 hours to complete the job.Leave a comment:
-
Which Dealership?
Can you supply the info? I wonder if they will do with NON OEM bushings or POLYS....
has anyone ever Done a combination or POLY and /or Rubber Bushings?
Does the IX have the Camber/toe adjustable weld-ins available too?
MorganLeave a comment:
-
You're in Denver? If you supply the tools, and all the stuff, I could be up to help you,, where are the other COLORADO e30 owners at?Leave a comment:
-
My dealership said the same thing but then after we did some digging the 1 series used the same copper nuts and were 80 cents a piece or something like thatLeave a comment:
-
Just do them yourself man. It'll take a day or two if you never did it.Leave a comment:
-
I looked through your step by step guide, that is incredible. It also helped me see how big of a job taking out the rear subframe is! - Also, thanks for the tip, I called the local BMW dealership and they said it's less than a 3 hour job because of the tools they have. Crazy. Thanks a ton to everyone here. You all are the best.
Leave a comment:
-
Awesome! That's good to know. I nromally stay away from BMW dealerships near me. Even just their parts pricing is through the roof. I wanted to get new bolts for my exhaust and they wanted $13 each.Leave a comment:
-

Leave a comment: