You won't be using waterbase, so people should stop discussing it here. Waterbase doesn't mean its any less durable. Its quite good. Its an "green, eco friendly" modern solution for oem/high production, blah blah..meh
10+ years durability rules out single stage. Modern single stage is good but not that good. SS will never look like a nice wet two stage application. Hello Maaco..
BC/CC is your option, and you'll find PPG or Dupont will probably be your best option as you can find them anywhere, as opposed to sikkens, Glasurit, etc. (may be different in Canada). I use PPG because that's what is sold near me. Dupont and others have great paint too, but to an extent its a ford/chevy decision. Shops that use one or the other usually use it because they get better service or pricing. Color matching by paint codes is just fine you're doing a full repaint. If you're repairing a section or painting a single panel to match the originally applied paint then you can still match by code and hardly notice any difference in most colors.
Paint coverage depends on the model line you choose. Higher solids = better hiding and therefore quicker coverage. To paint the car yourself you'll need around 3 quarts to get good coverage, (a gallon to be safe and have leftovers if you're doing an Mtech II set or lots of other trim) or a little less with good paint. A gallon of clear will give you enough to do 4 or 5 coats. Buy some REAL filler (not walmart bondo), some 2k primer/sealer and lots of solvents, cleaners, and prep materials, and a couple books on how to paint your own car since it sounds like you might could use some help. Go to an English Color or other local paint store and they'll help you.
OEM BMW paint for restoration?
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Six you might be comparing apples to oranges...there are different quality of clear coats out there PPG, (AKZO)Sikkens, Dupont are about the top of the line and in those lines they have different levels of quality. The clear coat is the most important item in a paint job with regards to longevity (there currently is not a water base clear). To be safe stick with PPG 4010, or Sikkens.Leave a comment:
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Solvent based is all good down here.
It is a lot softer and less durable than 2part paints/clears.Leave a comment:
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I do not see a problem in matching the OE color as it came from the factory, any decent paint shop will be able to do that. AFAIK the laws about solvent-based-paints are global (well, Europe+NAFTA anyways).Leave a comment:
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jeeze...don't buy a gallon! This small car you're probably ok with like half that. I picked up a pure black base from a 300c for $30 a quart....Leave a comment:
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Gotcha. Your early posts implied you were going to only paint a few body panels, not the entire car. Good decision, as a partial respray (to me at least) is always a disappointment once you realize how much nicer it would be to spray the whole thing...For my case at least, I have no interest in matching the existing paint. No matter how I can try to justify it, 20 year old paint is 20 year old paint, it'll never be at its prime and probably cost more trying to get it to match.
I want to make sure that whatever paint they use, it would be durable and immitate the sterling silver color code precisely. So at this point I'm just looking for an overall respray with a sterling silver like colorLeave a comment:
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dupont has oe color books. if you go to a supply store that has been around for a while they should have one. last i checked it was around $250 a gallon.Leave a comment:
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Well, the first thing I'd do is try and locate an automotive paint supply shop in your area. You will save a bunch by not having to ship anything. Also, since they usually supply body shops they may have had an over order or someone who may not have liked a color when they saw it in person and you could pick that up SUPER cheap. Don't go with anything single stage, if you want it to last use a 2 stage with a clear formulated to match with the paint. PPG paints are reasonably priced and you'll get OEM type results if you actually can paint (thats a lot easier said than done!). Also, make sure you do your prep work. Sand, sand, fill, sand, block, clean, tape, clean, prime, clean, base coat, clear.Leave a comment:
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in terms of durability, I think it can be worked out with the type of clear coat you apply. I spoke with my potential painter and he suggests I use the mercedes benz clear coat. IT is the most thick, durable and long lasting to the point it can stand up to road chips. Of course this is only offered in 2 stage paints which is what I'm getting since my paint has a metalic finish.Last edited by bmwstephen; 05-25-2010, 11:23 PM.Leave a comment:
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I have the same concerns, but mainly the durability issue. From the replies above, it seams, the durability cannot be matched with the new-age water-based paints.For my case at least, I have no interest in matching the existing paint. No matter how I can try to justify it, 20 year old paint is 20 year old paint, it'll never be at its prime and probably cost more trying to get it to match.
I want to make sure that whatever paint they use, it would be durable and immitate the sterling silver color code precisely. So at this point I'm just looking for an overall respray with a sterling silver like color
I have been spending most of my time at work in the past few weeks and weekends, but I'll research this further with the local restoration enthusiasts and report back soon.Leave a comment:
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For my case at least, I have no interest in matching the existing paint. No matter how I can try to justify it, 20 year old paint is 20 year old paint, it'll never be at its prime and probably cost more trying to get it to match.
I want to make sure that whatever paint they use, it would be durable and immitate the sterling silver color code precisely. So at this point I'm just looking for an overall respray with a sterling silver like colorLeave a comment:
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A lot of your better shops will be able to match existing paint. For example, the the body shop where I work has a machine that will scan the existing paint, then give the painter the formula to mix appropriately to match.
Assuming you aren't talking metallic colors. From what I understand, thats a whole 'nuther ballgame...(took them 2 tries to match my DS M3 when painting my evo lip).Leave a comment:
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^^^I have to check regulations here in Canada regarding solvent based paints. I suspect we have similar env protection laws.There is something that you're probably aware of, but noone has mentioned so far: the OE paint on all E30s was solvent based. The first BMW to get water based paint was the Z3, others followed after 1996. Therefore, if you want to be anal about it, it is not presently possible to repaint the car as it was from the factory. This is a shame, in some ways, because the non-cleared solvent paints have a resilience which is simply not there in modern stuff. Yes, they do oxidise but a mild polish will bring back colour and shine effectively time and time again.
You're therefore left with a modern, catalysed-clear-over-base choice for regulatory reasons. My suggestion is as follows: talk to the owner and ask them to provide you with the best quality paint they *regularly use*. I can assure you that the quality of the result will be much safer that way than any other way - and if they're a good paint shop, they should actually be able to obtain better-than-OE results. Of course, they will charge an absolutely offensive amount of money, but that's the effect of US insurance.
*regularly use* comment is good advise. That's probably what I'll do.Leave a comment:
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New - yes, but not existing, 20-year old paint. They would have to modify the mix.Leave a comment:

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