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replacing soft top: rivets??

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    replacing soft top: rivets??

    if im just replacing the fabric and everything else is perfect do i need to remove those seals with rivets? the site and instructions the seller sent me says no...



    whats your opinion? ive never done it before but that site shows you dont have to remove the rivets to replace it. im doing this tomorrow and would like some insight. thanks

    #2
    does anyone know? can i just replace them with bolts?

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      #3
      I did my top a couple of weeks ago and I removed those rivets and brackets to get to the fabric on. I then went to home depot and bought a pop rivet gun for $20 and a box of rivets. It was tough getting the bottom poprivet back on but I was able to lift the tail end of the top off the cover to gain better access. wasn't that bad. bolts with heads may protrude just enough that they distort or wear out the seal that rides up against the window. there's a link to a bmw video i found which was very helpful

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        #4
        Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.

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          #5
          hah thanks man i actually finished yesterday and just saw this now. the bottom rivet was the worst but overall riveting wasn't as bad as i thought. thanks though man i appreciate the response.

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            #6
            Nice videos. What did you guys use for glue for the top, and also for sealant for the rubber.
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              #7
              I used as little glue as possible. The glue is mostly to hold the fabric in place while you screw in the securing trim. I was able to lay the fabric on the frame and screw in the fabric at most location without glue. I did use gorilla glue on the back c pillar and the front corners where the top meets the window. I clamped it down tight while the glue cured but be careful because any gorilla runoff will surely damage your interior. gorilla glue also expands so use it sparingly. On the interior bows and just below the rear vinyl window I used 3m contact cement with the brush applicator. This is also a pain because it drips off the top and onto the seats so cover everything up.

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                #8
                the glue is what keeps the fabric attached to the rails. you dont need a whole lot as long as its good glue. you should replace the rivets with rivets.
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Originally posted by TimKninja
                Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

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                  #9
                  thanks for the vids
                  Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                  http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                  Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                    #10
                    What sealant was used when putting the rubber seals back? The black caulking in the video...
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                      #11
                      I would like to add, to anyone doing this to order a new front seal. It is quite expensive but in my case impossible to remove 100% in-tact due to the factory glue. I would also suggest ordering new retaining screws all around, as they can be rusty.

                      Ordering those things in advance should keep your down-time low

                      Still wondering what sealant to use
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                        #12
                        Bump, anyone?
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