Hello ladies and gentlemen!
I have a 1989 325i in need of some cosmetic/body fixing, but there is a twist.
The story: 3 years ago while at Uni I stuck 3 large 6foot men in the back seat of my E30, I then proceeded to back into the bumper of a LandRover in a dark parking lot :loco:
The land rover had just pulled into the spot behind me, and was unharmed. E30 was quite harmed. The rear corner was smashed in at taillight level. Bumper was unharmed, Trunk lid was unharmed. That was the last time I put that much bulk between my rear view mirror and rear window :roll:
Being at Uni, my fix was a hammer, a small piece of 2x4 wood, and a tail light assembly from a junk yard. This worked *just* well enough for the tail light to attach, and the trunk lid to shut. Three years later I now have rust on the outside, and rust on the inside around the battery grounding point and below the battery.
I have since replaced the car as a daily driver, and do not need it to look good, because here is the twist I mentioned: I only need it to be track worthy.
The question is, what is the minimum I need to do (or likely: have done for me) to make the car: Safe, track worthy, and not cause future heartache?
The intended goal for the car is to serve as something to get me out on the track and learning. Over the next 3 years I'll increase my experience and slowly modify the car but also stay PRO-3 legal. If in 3-4 years I have a PRO-3 car and have the experience, I'll go for it.
In the mean time, I can only guess that tracks don't want to see rusty cars. And it certainly isn't a rust bucket. That point is the only rust point I'm aware* of on the car.
Thoughts? Anyone have an idea what a hack job for a rear fender would cost me? Any way to mitigate the cost?
Thanks everyone for any hints or tips you can provide!
Cheers,
Earendil
*aware of: The carpet and floor insulation comes out this spring. That'll be the real test.
I have a 1989 325i in need of some cosmetic/body fixing, but there is a twist.
The story: 3 years ago while at Uni I stuck 3 large 6foot men in the back seat of my E30, I then proceeded to back into the bumper of a LandRover in a dark parking lot :loco:
The land rover had just pulled into the spot behind me, and was unharmed. E30 was quite harmed. The rear corner was smashed in at taillight level. Bumper was unharmed, Trunk lid was unharmed. That was the last time I put that much bulk between my rear view mirror and rear window :roll:
Being at Uni, my fix was a hammer, a small piece of 2x4 wood, and a tail light assembly from a junk yard. This worked *just* well enough for the tail light to attach, and the trunk lid to shut. Three years later I now have rust on the outside, and rust on the inside around the battery grounding point and below the battery.
I have since replaced the car as a daily driver, and do not need it to look good, because here is the twist I mentioned: I only need it to be track worthy.
The question is, what is the minimum I need to do (or likely: have done for me) to make the car: Safe, track worthy, and not cause future heartache?
The intended goal for the car is to serve as something to get me out on the track and learning. Over the next 3 years I'll increase my experience and slowly modify the car but also stay PRO-3 legal. If in 3-4 years I have a PRO-3 car and have the experience, I'll go for it.
In the mean time, I can only guess that tracks don't want to see rusty cars. And it certainly isn't a rust bucket. That point is the only rust point I'm aware* of on the car.
Thoughts? Anyone have an idea what a hack job for a rear fender would cost me? Any way to mitigate the cost?
Thanks everyone for any hints or tips you can provide!
Cheers,
Earendil
*aware of: The carpet and floor insulation comes out this spring. That'll be the real test.
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