Faster way to sand down bondo?

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  • SA E30
    replied
    Thanks for the clarification, I shall re do the bondo on my pulled fenders, plus I learnt something new

    So 2 thumbs up to an informative thread!

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  • Tha Driver
    replied
    First, you don't just cover the body with bondo to smooth it out (you haven't been watching those stupid TV shows, have you?). You only use bondo to fill areas that won't block out with primer: small dents, welds, etc. 99% of the time if you strip off the paint the metal underneath is fine. If it's a little wavy, use a hi-build catalyst-hardened primer to fill & block.
    You want maximum adhesion on everything - for bondo that means nothing finer than 180. I rarely use anything but 80 to finish it out but sometimes hit with a block & 180 to get a final surface that's easier to fill & block with primer.
    I usually use PPG epoxy (DP) primer on everything for maximum adhesion too, even under the hi-build if it's needed at all.
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    Custom Fiberglass Parts

    Leave a comment:


  • shiboujin
    replied
    Evercoat is expensive though. I'm covering A LOT of the body. I'm using it as a final bondo/skim coat.

    I get not wet sanding bondo (retains water) but why no smoother than 180?

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Evercoat is so nice to work with that I can get good results with it.

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  • Tha Driver
    replied
    Originally posted by SA E30
    I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt after the 180 to go down to say a 300 and wet sand it a bit?
    Never sand bondo with anything smoother than 180 & never wet sand it.
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    Custom Fiberglass Parts

    Leave a comment:


  • SA E30
    replied
    I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt after the 180 to go down to say a 300 and wet sand it a bit?

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  • whodwho
    replied
    That is for making holes for the ones with a vacuum attachment but could help some

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver
    Most sanders come with a plate for this purpose.

    Need one of those <_<

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Cheese grated on green bonding, block with 40 grit, jump to 80 grit, then 180ish.

    Timing is crucial, practice on a junk panel. Catching the mud while still green is the trick.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Originally posted by shiboujin
    ah that would make much sense. Maybe I should just poke holes into my sand paper :)
    Most sanders come with a plate for this purpose.

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  • gp.plus
    replied
    Originally posted by whodwho
    Go to a hardware store and pickup a surform plane (cheese grater) and before the bondo cures and still cheese like consistency you can shape it down.

    Absolutely this^^^ and maybe like said earlier a bit more hardener. Also evercoat is much nicer to work with than bondo.

    http://www.evercoat.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • shiboujin
    replied
    ah that would make much sense. Maybe I should just poke holes into my sand paper :)

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  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Use less bondo next time?

    My guess is you are using a palm sander with no dust holes in the paper, am I right? The sanding dust has no where to go and packs itself into the paper. Try using a better quality paper or buy one of these:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding...ner-30766.html

    And clean the paper before it get really bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • whodwho
    replied
    Go to a hardware store and pickup a surform plane (cheese grater) and before the bondo cures and still cheese like consistency you can shape it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • shiboujin
    replied
    Do you have suggestions on tools to buy? I don't mind spending money and waiting for shipping if it'll actually work. Link meh!

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