Help with Painting

[DatUtahGuy]

Update? Pics?

[1fastETA]

Okay!! I gonna give you some help.
Any repairs with bondo putty or whatever must be finished with 180 grit follwed by a featheredge with 320 grit for primer
To shoot primer u must have sanded up to 320grit. I recommend a 2k primer at least three coats
To sand primer 400 grit blocked. followed by a scuff pad grey
Depending on color you are using decide wether to shoot sealer or not. Transparency issues etc.
Apply base coat at least three coats
Apply clear coat at least two coats

Yes follow the same brand of products!
I hope this helps

[KI4UJO]

If you are new to this(mixing, spraying, etc) I strongly suggest getting all your products from the same brand, get your primer/sealer/base/clear in a bundle, don't try to mix and match because lets be honest, you probably don't know what the hell you are doing.

So stick to Omni or PPG or even Spies but try to be consistent, these products have been manufactured to work with its own brand and you know you wont be getting unforeseen problems for mixing two brands that don't play nice with each other.

Specifically in the same paint system. For example, PPG makes Lacquer, Enamel, Urethane, Waterborne, and probably some other stuff that I can't think of.

[/\/\ III]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafxod
I was trying to throw a vlad joke in somewhere but it wasnt working haha.

u vlad?

u vlad?

"my vlad" would of sound better.

[DatUtahGuy]

If you are new to this(mixing, spraying, etc) I strongly suggest getting all your products from the same brand, get your primer/sealer/base/clear in a bundle, don't try to mix and match because lets be honest, you probably don't know what the hell you are doing.

So stick to Omni or PPG or even Spies but try to be consistent, these products have been manufactured to work with its own brand and you know you wont be getting unforeseen problems for mixing two brands that don't play nice with each other.

[KI4UJO]

The Duplicolor us posted is a lacquer, are you planning on spraying clear over the base coat? Don't start to mix urethane products into a lacquer job, just follow the tech from Duplicolor (You might want to rethink the paint selection, this is just my IMO).

After you layer the lacquer down yoiu will need to color sand and buff. So don't skimp on the final stage coats as they will be knocked down during color sanding.

Did your thin that duplicolor primer by chance? If so that could be your problem. Aslo did you mix it well as the solids tend to fall t the bottom of the can so a GOOD mixing is important. What PSI at the tip are you spraying at?

More information we need to know. Also, if you are shooting lacquer, do what the quoted poster said. I shot my e30 in lacquer, and am very happy with it. However, when color sanding and buffing, do not use too much pressure or hold the buffer in the same spot, or you will do what I did, and burn through. I have to reclear my trunk lid, so just a word of advice.

[Voyd]

The Duplicolor us posted is a lacquer, are you planning on spraying clear over the base coat? Don't start to mix urethane products into a lacquer job, just follow the tech from Duplicolor (You might want to rethink the paint selection, this is just my IMO).

After you layer the lacquer down yoiu will need to color sand and buff. So don't skimp on the final stage coats as they will be knocked down during color sanding.

Did your thin that duplicolor primer by chance? If so that could be your problem. Aslo did you mix it well as the solids tend to fall t the bottom of the can so a GOOD mixing is important. What PSI at the tip are you spraying at?

[DatUtahGuy]

Primer has a tendency to lay with a texture to it, so as long as you can sand it smooth, then yes, lay down a light coat of sealer and then basecoat. If u spray the basecoat over the primer there is a possibility of the primer absorbing it depending on the chemical reaction that happens and it could ruin your paintjob

[Jafxod]

And besides the runs the primer looks good, I guess I should just hit it with a scotch brite pad and then put a base coat down?

[Jafxod]

Listen, I'm sorry to have to correct you but this really bugs me.

I know I'm a r3v noob, but those who are aware of all internet traditions know that vlad doesn't have a question mark on it. It's a sign of those who are not aware of all internet traditions.

U VLAD

is correct. :hitler:

It's like saying "These are the Hamptons" instead of "This is the Hamptons". It's a dead giveaway. ;)

Shut up and get the fuck out of my thread

[J308]

u vlad?

Listen, I'm sorry to have to correct you but this really bugs me.

I know I'm a r3v noob, but those who are aware of all internet traditions know that vlad doesn't have a question mark on it. It's a sign of those who are not aware of all internet traditions.

U VLAD

is correct. :hitler:

It's like saying "These are the Hamptons" instead of "This is the Hamptons". It's a dead giveaway. ;)

[trackjunkie21]

u vlad?

I honestly hope this never ends

[Cha Ching]

Dudes, this thread is starting to show some WIN. Keep the comments coming, you guys are giving hope to us DIY-wannabe painters!

[DatUtahGuy]

When u sand down body work(aka bondo) you only need to sand down to about 300grit, then your primer filler will do the rest, u sand that down to 400grit, along with the rest of the car and then you put down a sealer coat and your base, followed by the clear coat.

That primer that u posted should only be used for the repair areas, not the entire car.

[Jafxod]

I did do some body work. And i only sanded down to 600 grit.