Paint prep work questions. big ones.

[apexede30]

I've been reading over the forums, and from what I've gathered : Prep work is everything. Then painting...I'm going to leave the painting to a pro..but What is included in prep work?

Could someone give me a link or write off a nice little list of how to oh say paint my hood......Or prep my hood for painting?

From what I understand prep work is:
-Sanding off previous paint untill bare metal.
-Obliviating rust spots with harsh words.
-Priming and sanding the primer to a nice smooth outer coat.
-Detaching part that you're painting or cover anything around it so that you don't paint EVERYTHING.
-Covering moldings and what not.
-Then actually painting...

Did I miss something?
Thank you for your time.

[xLibelle]

it depends on what kind of a paint job youre looking for.
changing the color entirely?
getting a fresh coat of the same color?

in any case, i dont recommend stripping original paint entirely. it stuck for 20 some odd years, let it stay and be the base coat.

if you want it done right, lose the trim. almost every bit needs to be removed. this includes lights, bumpers, wipers, etc. again, it depends on how nice you want the details - the more attention to getting trim away form paint.

as for the rest, talk to the shops. they can help you and in helping you, they help themselves from you fucking it up. some places insist that they see the car and choose to do a light sand, THEIR primer, and then final coat work.


but i'm interested in those who have had experiences as well. i'm about to start preping my car for a top coat and clear.

[e30ryan///m3]

Sand the hood down with an 80 grit sand paper and then a 150-250 grit sandpaper and then a 500 or so grit sand paper. It all depends on how nice you want it to turn out. If the rest of your car is riddled with dings and dents and your not planning on fixing them I wouldn't go all out on the hood, but if you want it to be perfect then fill any low spots with a good filler. The best laying filler I have used is called Icing and you should be able to get it at any local CarQuest or NAPA. once all the filler has been applyed then you can block sand the hood (ask at the auto parts store for a block sander) they are fairly cheap and they keep you from making more low spots. This is were you should really go over the hood a few times starting with a low grit sandpaper and working your way to a very fine(high grit) sandpaper. After you have sanded and filled and sanded more, you can prime the hood. If you went all the way to bare metal you will need to use a self-etching primer, but if you just scuffed the original paint you can use regular surface primer. Once the hood is all primed and you have done a few coats you should wet sand it. This will involve taking wet/dry sandpaper (very fine grit) and soaking it in warm/hot water and sanding the hood. you should use a spray bottle to wet the entire hood (the water will bead up like you just waxed it) then take your bucket of hot water and your wet/dry sandpaper and sand the hood, you don't need to go crazy here just enough to make it smooth and when you spray water on it it won't bead up anymore. That is it, now bring it to a body shop for paint or have someone you know with a paint gun paint it. You can even get your factory paint at the CarQuest store or NAPA, just give them you vin number or paint code. I hope this helps.

Ryan

[ivo316]

I was advised not to sand finer than 400, there is a chance that the paint will not stick to the primer.

[trent]

GO here, and ask questions to professionals, this is the BEST body shop forum I have seen yet..

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

[matt]

I was advised not to sand finer than 400, there is a chance that the paint will not stick to the primer.

True.

[cactusjacks1]

I was advised not to sand finer than 400, there is a chance that the paint will not stick to the primer.

Many of todays basecoat/clearcoat paints call for a minimum of 400, then 600 - 800 wet/dry, then a sealer coat, before the base goes on. Almost all basecoats can be wet sanded with 1000-1500 before clear is applied. Clear can go 1000, 1200,1500, then 2000 before buffing with compound, swirl remover, machine glaze, hand glaze & a high quality wax. You can see why a good body shop gets big bucks for a real nice paint job.

[ivo316]

Man, I started my paintjob without knowing what I was getting into, my arm has grown bigger, any money a shop asks for a paintjob is well deserved, it's truckloads of work and dedication to get it right, plust getting to spray correctly is also an art, I decided to do it myself, and once I finish it I'll be very proud, but i bow in front of professional painters (or other amateurs in this forum) because even with an orbital, it's hard work and needs lots of knowledge.

[EWAustin]

Congrats and good luck. I'm an autobody student and I'm just starting on my 325is, As of now I've got the bumpers, sidemolding, and chrome strips off and about a 4x8" hole in the jack well where I had to grind away rust. I'll be welding some metal back in soon. I've also got a bunch more grinding to do. Today I'll be getting some pics and starting a project thread.

[trent]

True.

I disagree.

I have always been advised to hit about 600-800 for perfection on high build.

[backtrail69]

I usually hit it with 400 wet then sealer, base and clear after you have it in primer. Sometimes 600.

[matt]

I disagree.

I have always been advised to hit about 600-800 for perfection on high build.

If you're using a paint system, follow the directions. When I am mixing and matching or something, I never go above 400 grit in prep. Especially on something like neat epoxy or polyester resin that will get very smooth as I sand it. Wetsanding after the fact is the way to get perfection in the surface coat, IMO.

[EWAustin]

If you're using a paint system, follow the directions. When I am mixing and matching or something, I never go above 400 grit in prep. Especially on something like neat epoxy or polyester resin that will get very smooth as I sand it. Wetsanding after the fact is the way to get perfection in the surface coat, IMO.

This is the KEY to good paint. The chemical engineers that designed the paint know more about the physical structure of the paint than you or I do.

[mrsleeve]

I have always used 500 as has 2 of the best painters I have ever met.

[apexede30]

Oh no...Why can't this be as easy as finger paints.....

Anyhow, in all seriousness, primering seems quite difficult. And then theres the sanding.

What would happen if I just sprayed some primer on, and then sanded it down, without any of the sanding of the previous paint, or..."filling"?

Because that's where I'm at right now....And what would happen if I were to just thin ALL the paint off untill bare metal, and just primer that?..would that worK? (I know it seems im looking for a shortcut, and I understand that short cuts lead to problems, but...I really like shortcuts, and am pressed to about 2 hours per week on time.)

Thanks to the great replies and discussions...If you ever need help on...basic things, I'll try to repay the favor.