My Detailing Wakthrough

[atomic]

^^^^ Thanks!

I'm not sure what kind of paint the car has. It' my Black e30 in my sig. It has original paint and it's in amazing shape, that's why I'm so upset.

then you have single stage paint. just follow what I said above and you should at least make it harder to notice the key mark or even get rid of it all togther. Just go at it slow and when colorsanding make sure to use 1200 wet/dry paper and go in one direction(back and forth) and not in circles.... Also just go at it slow and you should be just fine. let me know if you have any more questions through PM in case I do not keep up with this thread

[SoCal Life]

^^^^ Thanks!

I'm not sure what kind of paint the car has. It' my Black e30 in my sig. It has original paint and it's in amazing shape, that's why I'm so upset.

[atomic]

adept- A few weeks back someone keyed one of my fenders. It's very light and I can't feel it when I run my finger over it. Is it possible to high speed buff this out, or will that only cover the scratch temporarily? I really want it gone for good, but I don't want to repaint the fender.

What color is your car first ??? If it is a base/clear coat paint you should really easily be able to make it go away especially if it can not be felt with your fingernail.... You could try to high speed buff it first with a compound( I like 3M finese-it, its non abrasive and gets its cutting properties from the heat caused from the high speed buffer, while abrasvie compounds will do the work as well but they usually put circular scratches in the paint finish that just makes it another step to get them out) and then follow up with slow speed polish/glazes to remove wheel marks.... If that doesn't work removing the key mark after the compound stage then you need to lightly wet sand(1200-1500 wet/dry paper) in " ONE " direction on the area effected and try to take it down enough where once the paint is dried off you can no longer see the scratch ( If it is still there it will appear shiney while the sanded area will be dull ) once the area is all dull or has very little shine showing the scratch then you can do the above steps mentioned to bring back to a complete shine.... Most light key marks can be fixed regardless of what type of paint is on your car although it is easier to fix them in base/clear cars... Hope this helps and if not just PM me and I will try to help you further on this matter !!!


You can also go here and look at the BMW auto paint assessment I posted and find your problem and it will tell you how to possibly fix it... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=92311

[SoCal Life]

adept- A few weeks back someone keyed one of my fenders. It's very light and I can't feel it when I run my finger over it. Is it possible to high speed buff this out, or will that only cover the scratch temporarily? I really want it gone for good, but I don't want to repaint the fender.

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

Alos remember guys DO NOT USE DISH WASHING SOAPS to wash your car in. Only use car soaps. Think about it if you use say Palmolive to wash your car. It is a soap made to cut grease off of dishes and any wax on the market is really nothing but a grease but in carnuba wax form. When I owned a detail shop I could not tell you how many time people would say they thought we waxed their car but they noticed after 2-3 washings that the car did not bead water anymore. I then ask them what they used to wash with and it was always a dishwashing soap. Those soaps strip the waxes right off of the car.....

I can't believe people would use dishwashing soap in this day and age.

[adept]

^^^ All info good info :up:

[atomic]

Also remember guys DO NOT USE DISH WASHING SOAPS to wash your car in. Only use car soaps. Think about it if you use say Palmolive to wash your car. It is a soap made to cut grease off of dishes and any wax on the market is really nothing but a grease but in carnuba wax form. When I owned a detail shop I could not tell you how many time people would say they thought we waxed their car but they noticed after 2-3 washings that the car did not bead water anymore. I then ask them what they used to wash with and it was always a dishwashing soap. Those soaps strip the waxes right off of the car.....

[atomic]

Oxidized paint can be buffed clean. Here is my GFs hood half done


My question is how do I keep it from re-oxidizing? Where the hell do I find these products? Nice writeup, Aaron!

Luke

You cant keep it from re-oxidizing but you can maintain it with weekly washes and I would recommend a full paste wax( I like mothers products ) at least once a month. And at least once a year do a slow speed polish with an orbital buffer with a cleaner polish before waxing. The one good thing about BMW's red, especially if it is factory and not a repaint at some time, is that the red seems to hold up better than say toyota reds or even hondas. I hope that you did any pressure washing with degreasers before you did the buffing because the degreasers will usually fade the red back out again

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

FYI:

costco microfibers are the shittiest microfibers you could ever find.

They don't really even qualify as microfiber towels in my mind.

If you have costco microfiber towels, run your hand over them. And then go to a store and buy auto-detailing brand name microfiber towels. There's a world of difference.

My mom buys Costco microfiber towels for the house, and I use a couple only for the interior (or what's left of it).

[adept]

So wait a second.

My 325is (gone now, -.-') had paint that was rough. You probably know what I'm talking about, oxidized paint feels like, oxidized paint.

According to a paint, ugh, let's say pro cuz he apparently did bodyshop painting for awhile, the paint is toast once it got that badly oxidized. I washed it and waxed it and it still felt like raw paint afterwards.

Claying wouldn't have helped much other than to fill in little things and remove the fallout, which you couldn't find much because it was all oxidized and white.

Don't know who to believe now >.>

Oxidized paint can be corrected like SteroInstaller showed you. Wax does not help correct paint, so it would not have fixed the oxidation at all. Clay and polish is for that, and would have brought your paint back to life. Try it out! Clay is easy and noone can mess up using it.

- Aaron



StereoInstaller1 -

Thanks for the kudos and I agree with the 2 people who responded before me^^. Sealant will help protect your paint, and I buy from autogeek 90% of the time!

[mtechnik]

I also heavily endorse www.autogeek.net !

[StereoInstaller1]

Oxidized paint can be buffed clean. Here is my GFs hood half done


My question is how do I keep it from re-oxidizing? Where the hell do I find these products? Nice writeup, Aaron!

Luke

[Ablice]

So wait a second.

My 325is (gone now, -.-') had paint that was rough. You probably know what I'm talking about, oxidized paint feels like, oxidized paint.

According to a paint, ugh, let's say pro cuz he apparently did bodyshop painting for awhile, the paint is toast once it got that badly oxidized. I washed it and waxed it and it still felt like raw paint afterwards.

Claying wouldn't have helped much other than to fill in little things and remove the fallout, which you couldn't find much because it was all oxidized and white.

Don't know who to believe now >.>

[adept]

Is that single stage white, or is there clear on top?>

This is Alpine White 2... so there is a clear coat. Single stage would be even easier to work on and to see a night/day difference.

@ Adept- Amen

Thanks!

[mtechnik]

@ Adept- Amen