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Another roller paint job (56k warning)

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    Another roller paint job (56k warning)

    This whole idea got into my head after reading on a few different forums about the "$50 paint job" popularized on the moparts forum. Reading through the hundreds of posts about which paint to use, technique, results etc etc, I built up the confidence to give it a try. Finally I found M3fan4eva's write up on his roller job.


    Frank was kind enough to share his wisdom on the process. He also warned about just how much manual labor is involved. If you are not the diligent DIY type with lots of spare time, don't try this.

    I need to replace my rusted out sunroof panel so I started by practicing on a 'new' blue panel i picked up at the JY. The paint I'm using is Interlux Brightside white boat paint. Its a polyurethane paint designed to be roller on with a high gloss finish.
    The step by step process is as follow.
    1. Wet sand the panel down to the primer with 300-400 grit.
    2. Clean with soap and water, then once dry, clean with mineral spirits.
    3. Mix 2 parts paint with 1 part mineral spirits.
    4. Roll on with a 3" high density foam roller. After rolling about 2 square feet, immediately run a 3" foam brush lightly over the painted area to pop the bubbles left by the roller.
    5. Let dry for 24 hours then clean with mineral spirits.
    6. Once dry, wet sand lightly with 1000 grit.
    7. Repeat steps 2-6 until you have completely coverage (even color all the way across the panel. Mine took 3 coats but others have done all the way up to 8 or even ten coats. It all depends on the type of paint (Brightside or Rustoleum) and color. White hides flaws very well, dark colors take more effort.
    8. Hand polish the panel back to a deep shine
    9. Wax and admire the results.
    There are many variations on this process.

    Heres what I have so far. The sunroof panel after 2 coats, no sanding, no polishing.






    Fluorescent light at night really helps bring out the flaws in the paint. Its a very useful tool.


    Extreme closeup. It looks terrible but all this stuff gets knocked down with 1000 grit wet sand before the next coat. 90% of the shine in a paint job is in the prep work and polishing. Sanding between coats is part of that prep.


    After sanding down the second coat.


    Third and final coat of paint.


    You can definitely see some of the imperfections in the paint. Again this is just the paint as it came off the roller. No sanding, polishing or wax yet.


    Before starting on the rest of the car I fixed some small dents. Bondo


    Sanded


    And primer. Bondo tends to soak up paint like a sponge so it needs to be primered. The rest of the car on the other hand, can be rolled without primer directly on the existing paint/primer as long as its sanded.


    You can find more info on roller painting you car:


    #2
    Looks great!! looking forward to more progress!!
    "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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      #3
      Fuckin A dude, it really is that easy too. I have been working on a spare trunk lid I have and I am 100% confident that I will be able to get good results on my 6 series. Maybe not 100% perfect, but damn good.
      '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5

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        #4
        Good for you dude, keep up the good work!!

        Keep us all posted on your progress. I want a start-to-finish on this project!

        If brightside covers better, go with it dude!
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          #5
          Well I have to admit, I'm not exactly thrilled with my polishing skills. After the third coat, I gave it another once over with 1000 grit, hand polished with some turtle wax polishing compound and finished it off with carnauba wax. The beautiful gloss of the paint after the third coat is gone, replaced by an endless haze of swirl marks. Go me! So until I can get some kind of power tool or work on my skills, I'll paint the rest of the car and leave the polishing for another time. The paint itself is incredibly smooth to the touch. Theres no ridges, no orange peel, not even a hit of brush marks. Just a bunch of hazy swirl marks. I either figure out a better way to polish this panel or just give it a 4th thin coat. Its good to know I can fix it.
          You can almost see the swirl marks around the reflection of the sun.


          Compare this to my previous picture of the reflection of the chair.


          Not exactly mirror finish anymore.

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            #6
            you need to wait a while after you paint to wax. Some paints take like a month till you can wax them. Most tell you not to wash for about a week.
            ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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              #7
              Originally posted by asubimmer View Post
              you need to wait a while after you paint to wax. Some paints take like a month till you can wax them. Most tell you not to wash for about a week.
              Thats a good point. I'm getting ahead of myself. I really wanted to see what the finished product would looking before doing the whole car. I'll take off the wax with some mineral spirits. This paint doesn't specify anything about waxing or washing but i'll take it off anyway.
              Last edited by tjts1; 07-23-2007, 01:30 PM.

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                #8
                Great job! This is something I am seriously considering, but I am worried about the polishing part. Im afraid I'll polish it and have the same problem you did with the hazy finish.

                The paint on my car looks great, but there are some small spots where the clearcoat has chipped off and there are some dings that get on my nerves. Plus I need to paint sideskirts, front bumper, front airdam, is lip, rear apron, and eyebrows.

                Another thing I worry about is the time involved. This car is my daily driver so I'd have to do 1 panel at a time.....and drive around with 2 different colors for a while.

                How long (hours) would you estimate this to take for a whole car? This fall I could probably spend about 20hrs a week...but only if I can finish it in about a month.


                edit: One more question. Since this is not the oil based enamel paint, is it possible to have the car painted at a body shop in the future without the bad paint reactions?
                Last edited by jex; 07-24-2007, 08:25 AM.

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                  #9
                  Jex, refer to my roller paint job threads, should answer all your questions.
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                    #10
                    It looks pretty good!

                    I know this is an obvious question, but why didn't you guys use a wagner power painter or something similar instead of a roller? They're cheap and seem to lay down a pretty even coat on houses.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by M3fan4eva View Post
                      Jex, refer to my roller paint job threads, should answer all your questions.
                      frank, did you finish that big write up of the entire process you mentioned in a previous thread?my car needs paint bad, and this method seems way cheaper, and i can control my own results.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The swirl marks are there because you missed a few steps after initial sanding. The turtle wax and hand power won't get the results you want.

                        I did a similar thing recently. After the 1000 grit sanding, you need 1200, then 1500. Then use a rotary polisher with a wool bonnet and a heavy cut polish. Then use progressively finer polishes, including a swirl remover product, on progressively finer buffing pads on a D/A (porter cable etc) polisher.

                        As posted earlier, don't wax until the paint has cured fully else the gasses can be trapped.

                        If you're on a budget suggest you use the 1500 wet sand, then go to heavy cut polish on rotary (be CAREFUL), then swirl remover on a medium cut pad.
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                          #13
                          Originally posted by AlarmedBread View Post
                          It looks pretty good!

                          I know this is an obvious question, but why didn't you guys use a wagner power painter or something similar instead of a roller? They're cheap and seem to lay down a pretty even coat on houses.
                          I used one of those on a house and I'm not really convinced that it would work that great on a car. Secondly, theres a lot more masking involved in spray painting. It might work on a car. Not sure really.

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                            #14
                            Ive seen this method floating around different forums, its produced some great results, especially the guy with the charger and bug. Good Luck!

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                              #15
                              yeah, and me
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