Needing Crash Rebuild Advice!

[deutschman]

see. had the same shit happen.

[Fidhle007]

yeah. this car is a goner man! i am very sorry for your loss! i just hit a bus maybe 3 weeks ago and had almost the same kind of damage. i went to a body shop and they quoted me $7,000. there is a lot more work to be done there then it looks like.
take all the parts out of your car and buy a non running car and put them all in that car. i know it is a pain in the ass but it is not worth it to fix that car. way way way to much work and money, buy the time you are done buying body parts and straitening the frame and painting all the parts to mach you will have spent enough money to buy a turbo set up. and then you will kick yourself in the ass. take what you want from the car, part the rest out, and throw the WING away.

Fixed!

[Fidhle007]

see. had the same shit happen.

Your damage is different than the OP's car but still on a similar level. It's still $4000 repair if you don't care what it's going to look like in the end.

[dkerley03]

Update

I am still trying to locate a parts donor car within 200 miles. I have a few leads in process, but nothing definite. I have been talking to salvage yards near me (150 mile radius), I found through car-parts.com. These yards supposedly had parts, but keep coming up dry, car already crushed! In the end it might be modify a non-runner with my parts.

Does any one know if my running gear would transplant into a 318 body. If so, I imagine there are suspension deficiencies, such as lighter springs due to the smaller engine. I know the computer are different, probably a different radiator and such?

A 325e is probably closer, but the springs and other suspension parts are different?

What is definitely different between a 325i and 325is?

Thank You
Dennis

[dkerley03]

Some answers found

I have found a few of my answers, they are quoted below from

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=61323

"Standard equipment on the E30 325is
------------------------------------------------------
Limited Slip Differential (3.73 ratio)
Slightly Stiffer Front Springs (rears are same as 325i)
Slightly Stiffer Shocks (Bilsteins in 87, Boges after that)
14x6½" BBS Cross-Spoke Wheels
Deeper one-piece front airdam (87 model only)
Deeper Front chin spoiler extension (88-90)
Factory Oil Cooler
Foglights in the airdam
Rear Decklid Spoiler
Bolstered Leather Sport Seats
3-Spoke Sport Steering Wheel up till and including the '89
Leather Airbag wheel on all '90 and up E30s
Trip Computer (OBC)
Premium Stereo System
Power Sunroof
Power Windows
Power Mirrors
In 1991 they dropped the "is" model. However a
Sport Package option was available on the 2-dr 325i
for 1991, with all the same stuff as on the earlier "is".
So technically there was no 91 325is, just a 325i that's
made into a virtual clone of the 325is when equipped with
the Sport Package. The Sport Package was also available
on the 91 325i 4-door, with all the above items except
it did not get the deeper chin spoiler extension. It had
a rocker-panel molding similar to the 325iX only without
the upturned fenderwell transitions.


Items shared by both the 325i and 325is sedans:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Same 6-cyl 2.5L Engine (168hp, 164 lbs-ft torque)
Same Transmissions (5-sp and automatic)
Same Dual Exhaust system
Same Fuel Injection system
Same Ignition system
Same Oil Cooler
Same Brakes and ABS system
Same front and rear swaybars (20mm front, 12mm rear)
Same rear springs


Differences between the various years (both i and is):
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
87, 90, and 91 came with sealed beam headlights.
The 88 and 89 came with the ellipsoidal headlights.
The 90 and 91 came with an airbag steering wheel.
The 87 and 88 came with the big aluminum bumpers.
The 89 thru 90/91 had the body-colored wraparound bumpers.
The 87 had a deep one-piece front spoiler with square foglights.
The 88 thru 91 had the two-piece front apron/spoiler with
integral foglights and integral brake ducts.
The 87-88's 153 Motronics were sometimes troublesome (idle probs?)
The later 88's got the new 173 Motronics starting with build date 3/88
The 89 thru 91 came with the new and improved 173 Motronics.
The 87 had no apron below the rear bumper, the 88-91 does.
The 87 has smaller taillights (a la M3), the 88-91 has larger ones.
The 87 has larger rear fender openings and exposes more tire.
The 88-91 rear fender openings are smaller and look better __________________"

[Desaevious]

Damn man I'm sorry to see this. I agree that this will consume a lot of time and money, perhaps more so than buying another DD would cost. I'd say part it out and use the money towards another. You have to source a good hood, passenger fender, valence, bumper, and to get it straightened out is going to be a pain.

That being sad, part it out and use the money for another. If it comes to that point, PM me because I'll take your driver's side fender from you. My schwarz has some lift-point rust.

Good luck on whichever you do.

[Chisum]

Call me optimistic but this isn't that bad. I work at a body shop too, and this would be one of those cars I'd love to find for a few hundred. Rebuildables-R-us. Anyway, you could get this done cheaper if you can park it while you track down parts. Don't underestimate the power of Craig's List. I've found lots of parts there and had success with "wanted" ads. The reason you aren't finding cars in junkyards is that scrap peaked over the summer at $20/100 and every yard in the world scrapped out all the old stuff. But, as you know, scrap tanked along with the rest of the economy so the yards will start keeping stuff again. Just may take awhile.
Also hit the pick ur parts, they don't list inventory on car-part.com we've got a few cars here that I know of. If you don't mind driving I can hook you up with a yard that has a whole front clip intact.
The BMW rad support comes in sections from BMW. You may be able to get away with buying a new top bar and saving the rest. If this were my car, I'd peel it down, get the rails straightened and the rad support welded in, then take the car home and assemble it. Make sure you get a good fender and give it to the frame guy he can test fit the fender while he pulls the rail. Once you get it together take it back and have them paint it. There are six, 10mm bolts that hold the hood to the hinge in the front. Probably can reach them from the grille area. Once the hood's off the rest of the peeldown will be easy.
Also, once the driver's side grille is out you can unbolt the hood latch and that may give you more room to get to the hinge bolts.

[dkerley03]

I knew it was rebuildable! thanks for the guidance.

Call me optimistic but this isn't that bad. I work at a body shop too, and this would be one of those cars I'd love to find for a few hundred. Rebuildables-R-us. Anyway, you could get this done cheaper if you can park it while you track down parts. Don't underestimate the power of Craig's List. I've found lots of parts there and had success with "wanted" ads. The reason you aren't finding cars in junkyards is that scrap peaked over the summer at $20/100 and every yard in the world scrapped out all the old stuff. But, as you know, scrap tanked along with the rest of the economy so the yards will start keeping stuff again. Just may take awhile.
Also hit the pick ur parts, they don't list inventory on car-part.com we've got a few cars here that I know of. If you don't mind driving I can hook you up with a yard that has a whole front clip intact.
The BMW rad support comes in sections from BMW. You may be able to get away with buying a new top bar and saving the rest. If this were my car, I'd peel it down, get the rails straightened and the rad support welded in, then take the car home and assemble it. Make sure you get a good fender and give it to the frame guy he can test fit the fender while he pulls the rail. Once you get it together take it back and have them paint it. There are six, 10mm bolts that hold the hood to the hinge in the front. Probably can reach them from the grille area. Once the hood's off the rest of the peeldown will be easy.
Also, once the driver's side grille is out you can unbolt the hood latch and that may give you more room to get to the hinge bolts.

I have an ad "wanted" on craigs list. The scrapping at $20/100, yes I remember that, it makes sense. Explaining why the unavailability.

I saw the top bar of the radiator support alone and I wondered about that option. I will have the frame man do as you said, with the strainting and the fender alignment.

Thank you ofr guidance on removing the Hood! I was thinking I would have to cut it with saws all and this made me nervous! There is not a lot of clearance as you know between the hood and engine.

I believe I have now made contact on an available clip. But if not, I will be in touch and would greatly appreciate the locating help. I am willing to take a road trip for parts, if needed!

Thank you
Dennis

[Chisum]

Make sure you post ads on all the Craig's Lists in your area. There's about five in my area, and you have to post in all lists separately. Make sure the used hood is straight, the raised center section gets waves sometimes, you don't want a hood loaded up with mud because it will eventually crack through. A little icing dings, fine, but you don't want major waves. Since this car is black, this is even more important, because every little blemish will show up. Too bad the car isn't white. Getting something straight to start will save you money because the body shop won't have as much prep time in before paint.
If the hood didn't push into the metal by the windshield, then you should have no problem getting it off from the front. Just unbolt the latch (The cable may have broken, thus the interior hood release won't work), or take off the bolts in the hood that hold the catch. With the grills off the hood should come off EZ, I've done this many times before. The more work you do yourself the cheaper it will be. Get it peeled down, then have the frame guy look at it. The rails and rad support are the keys to getting the job done right. The location of the rad support also dictates where the hood will sit relative to the fenders.
You may have to use some shims to get things to line up, don't worry about that, There isn't a body man alive that hasn't used a shim somewhere on a job, whether its a $1,000 job or $15,000 job.
Oh, once you get the hood loose in the front, the only thing holding it to the car will be that little hinge and shock near the washer bottle. There's a 12 or 13mm nut on the little hinge and a clip holding the shock. You should be able to disconnect these though the hole where the headlight used to be. Dont forget to unplug the washer fluid pipe.
Once you get the hood off check out the apron and see how wavey that is. The AC drier is in that area and a couple Ac lines and abs sensor. Is your ABS light on now? Might be that wire got cut and you need a ABS sensor. Abs sensors have the yellow plug.

[dkerley03]

Since this car is black, this is even more important, because every little blemish will show up.

Getting something straight to start will save you money because the body shop won't have as much prep time in before paint.
If the hood didn't push into the metal by the windshield, then you should have no problem getting it off from the front.

The more work you do yourself the cheaper it will be. Get it peeled down, then have the frame guy look at it. The rails and rad support are the keys to getting the job done right. The location of the rad support also dictates where the hood will sit relative to the fenders.

You may have to use some shims to get things to line up, don't worry about that, There isn't a body man alive that hasn't used a shim somewhere on a job, whether its a $1,000 job or $15,000 job.

The AC drier is in that area and a couple Ac lines and abs sensor. Is your ABS light on now? Might be that wire got cut and you need a ABS sensor. Abs sensors have the yellow plug.

I understand, Black cars are beautiful. If the body is strait and the car is clean!

I do want to get these parts in as good a shape as I can, before the body shop, Yes! I have passed up a couple of parts that I located because of "some rust". I don't want to put rust where there was none before.

Thankfully, the hood didn't push into the metal by the windshield. I am trying to be very careful on parts selection. I did not know some of the hood information you posted, thanks.


The ac lines condition is not important as I was going to remove that anyway. Just had not yet had a chance. The ABS light is not on :D

Again, thank you
Dennis

[dkerley03]

I am reconsidering my direction?

I have been working on my 1988 325is and am having real problems getting things anywhere near straight enough to bolt up.

so I am considering bolting all my running gear (m20B25 engine, ecu, trans, drive shaft, 4.10 diff, shock, struts, is springs) transplant my is sport interior, front air dam, fog lights, ellipsoids, trunk lid and other nice items into my four door 1985 318i parts car.

Does anyone see any major problems with this besides the time and expense involved? All your guidance is appreciated. I am really discouraged. :crazy:

Thank You
Dennis

[Fidhle007]

Well if you'd fucking listened to everyone in the FIRST PLACE...

[dkerley03]

Thank you, but you're a fool!

Well if you'd fucking listened to everyone in the FIRST PLACE...

Thank you, but you're a fool! I know it was suggested that I look at buying and fixing up another. But, that gives you no reason to get on here an spill your foul mouthed one liners!

I have seen you give good knowledgeable advice on here, but coming on here and cursing at someone! Who is trying find the best way of dealing with the loss of a favorite car helps no one!

I appreciate 99% of whats said here but you linger often in the one percent that are losers, get a life!

[Fidhle007]

Thank you, but you're a fool! I know it was suggested that I look at buying and fixing up another. But, that gives you no reason to get on here an spill your foul mouthed one liners!

I have seen you give good knowledgeable advice on here, but coming on here and cursing at someone! Who is trying find the best way of dealing with the loss of a favorite car helps no one!

I appreciate 99% of whats said here but you linger often in the one percent that are losers, get a life!

Right from the beginning most of us told you the most cost effective this was to swap any upgrade parts you had onto another body or rolling shell. The hit your car took was fixable by a shop with the expertise and equipment to do so but you told us you wanted to do a lot of it yourself so we told you to get another body and be done with it. You didn't listen and forged your own path and when it failed, do you expect anything different than "I told you so?"

I'm a professional tech at a BMW restoration and repair shop, as are many on here. I've dealt with a lot of hit E30s, a few of which have been my own. The knowledge on this board is gained through years of hands-on experience, trial and error and the sharing of ideas. It is tried, true and effective but you chose to ignore it. That makes you sound like the loser to me...



Oh sorry, I almost forgot:





FUCKFUCKFUCKFUCK. :D

[atomic]

some people just have to learn the hard way...




;)