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Best bumper & valance for intercooler mounting

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    Best bumper & valance for intercooler mounting

    Running out of room in the front of the car for the intercooler and electric radiator fan on my swap and wondering what everyone's opinion is for best bumper/valance combo with regards to space, not necessarily their favorite looking.

    Currently I am running a side mount intercooler and a pusher fan in front of the radiator (not adequate for cooling when sitting in traffic, need a better/bigger fan which won't fit). I'd also like a front mount intercooler.

    I have a 85 318i, so diving boards and very tight lower valance. See the stolen picture below showing radiator location:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Early model db.JPG
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    I need to move my radiator forward, so that I can get the electric radiator fan behind the radiator (puller) vs. in front front (pusher). This means I need to lose the lower valance all together. My first thought is to keep the diving boards and add an early model es/is lower valance and add the intercooler below that. See stolen picture for concept:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Early model db w ES valance.JPG
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    For those who have the early model es/is lower valance, how does it attach? Can I make custom mounts and attach it without the old lower valance?

    How much room is behind the lower valance, as much as it looks like?



    I really like the way tucked db's, painted surronds and the es/is valance look when done right (like this white one:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=208649
    ), but let me know what options you guys can think of.


    Any other ideas - aftermarket bumpers? I am gonna drop 200$ on a valance, so 300-350$ on a fiberglass bumper isn't that bad.

    #2
    Thats how i would do it. it mounts at 7 or 8 points, the 3 center mounts are plastic and uber rare. they can be made from 1'X1/8 Steel and bent and welded together. it screws directly to the bumper in 3 places and the sides are held on with another plastic mount that can also be made out of steel or alum. there is a sensor on the drivers side next to the light, i dont know what its for?

    Your old valance gets removed and you use the old mounting holes.

    the ducts are like 2' Deep so you could trim them back if needed. you are going to want an IS air dam. the ES did not have oil cooler holes in the center.

    many people have just sheet metal screwed them on with mixed results. dont go that route. also get an oem one. the DTM ones require lots of prep to get them to look good .

    The lights are pretty hard to find so get one with a set. you will also want the pigtails for the lights. there is a complete valance with lights and mounts for 250 on ebay right now. thats a smokin deal. after market mounts will run you $145 on ebay and $40 for the side mounts.

    I have one in my garage that i have wet sanded and filler primered 5 times, it was thrashed when i got it.

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      #3
      You don't need to push your radiator back to fit an electric fan, what engine are you swapping in? Will you be running A/C?

      If I were you I'd swap to an 88+ valance, you can even keep the diving board bumper on there too. Plenty of people cram huge intercoolers behind the late model valance without issues.
      BimmerHeads
      Classic BMW Specialists
      Santa Clarita, CA

      www.BimmerHeads.com

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        #4
        Skunkworks - Thanks for the info, that is what I was looking for. I want to remove the old valance for the room, so that works out perfect. I measured last night and i have 9-11" from the front of where my radiator sits now to the front of the bumper (depending upon location. I should be able to push the radiator up 3" for an e-fan and still get a 3" intercooler in front of it.

        MR 325 - I found another post with pictures (with your comments!) - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1758317. Looks like it might work, but not sure if there is as much room as with the es/is valance. I have a 1JZ jammed in there now, so not exactly a standard swap (no AC, no oil cooler).

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          #5
          here is actually 3" that you could trim down...

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