Detailing...

[BS87]

Ok, before i try and clean up this dirty cabrio of mine, i'd like to make sure i've got the order of what products to use correct, IE, claybar, polish, wax last etc. Any product reccomendations would be great (I actually searched for this, but timed out :oops: ).

Also, if you think any certain detailing processes are better left to the professionals, and that i do not have the skills to do them, please say so. I'd rather get flamed then fuck up my paint.

[e30Matt]

So people don't have to go searching for it

Detailing 101: Common Question and Answers, What and Where to buy stuff + Technique
I'm going to consolidate all of the articles I've written into one giant thread. I'll ask one of the mods to park it at the top, hopefully permanently.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER:

I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL DETAILER, NOR DO I CONSIDER MYSELF ONE. I AM SOLELY A DETAILING HOBBYIST WHO IS CONSTANTLY PURSUING THE PERFECT SHINE. I IN NO WAY CAN OR WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE (MONETARILY OR OTHERWISE) FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU POTENTIALLY CAUSE TO YOUR CAR BY TAKING THE ADVICE GIVEN BY MYSELF IN THIS THREAD. IF YOU USE MY SUGGESTIONS YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!

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Detailing Frequently Asked Questions

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic articles. The following article aims to answer all of the frequently asked questions that I have received via PM or that have been asked in the forums.

Questions:

Q: What is involved in performing an exterior detail?
A: In order to detail your car you should; wash with a quality car wash soap (not Dawn), clay, polish out swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing using a mild polish (if necessary), clean the paint, and then protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality sealant and/or wax.

Q: What is the correct order to perform the various detailing steps?
A: As stated above: Wash, Clay, Polish, mild polish, Clean, Seal and/or Wax.

Q: How often should I perform a full exterior detail?
A: Two times a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.

Q: I’ve read that dawn is good to use to strip old wax from my car. Is this true?
A: NO. Leave your dawn in the kitchen where it belongs. It has no place in any real detailers cabinet. It has been proven that Dawn will not strip all old wax off. Some members of the autopia community performed tests some time ago that proved this.

Q: How did the dawn phenomenon start?
A: I think it all started because of the zaino people. Zaino recommends that you dawn wash your car the very first time you zaino it. They claimed this was to remove any oils and old wax present on your paint. These things needed to be removed in order for the zaino to bond properly to your surface. Zainos philosophy is that once you zaino, you should never leave the zaino system, thus negating any need to ever re-wash your car with dawn. In the zaino world, dawn is a one-time thing. But people being people, they automatically assumed that dawn was the best way to ‘clean’ their paint. And they began doing it very often regardless of whether they were zainoing. Believe me when I tell you that claying, polishing, and cleaning will do a MUCH better job of stripping your car down than dawn ever will.

Q: What is the purpose of claying?
A: The purpose of claying is to remove any imbedded contamination from the surface of your paint, contamination that washing alone cannot remove.

Q: How do I know if I have any imbedded contamination in my paint?
A: You’ll know if your paint feels sandy/gritty when you run you fingers across it.

Q: How does clay work?
A: It works by grinding away the contamination and lifting it into the clay. Claying will leave a clean smooth surface behind.

Q: What is the proper technique for claying?
A: See my post at this link: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113673

Q: Is claying safe?
A: Yes. The only pitfall of claying is the potential for creating minor surface swirl marks from rubbing a contaminated piece of clay into your clear coat. BUT, if you follow my claying article word for word you should have no problems with this at all.

Q: What is the purpose of polishing?
A: The purpose of Polishing is to remove swirl marks from your paint.

Q: What are swirl marks?
A: Swirl marks are very fine scratches in the surface of your paint that cannot be felt with your fingernail. These scratches are mostly visible in direct sunlight and other high intensity lighting.

Q: What if I have scratches that I can feel with my fingernail. How do I go about removing them?
A: You’ll need to fill the scratch in with touch up paint and wet sand the blob down using a particular grit of automotive sand paper. Once that is complete you’ll need to polish out the sanding marks with a finer polish. Wet sanding is a very risky and dangerous procedure. I would strongly advise against performing this procedure. I have many scratches that I have learned to live with. Scratches are a harsh reality of daily driving.

Q: Why are you so against wet sanding?
A: Because the potential for sanding through your clear coat is very great, especially if you are new to detailing. Even if you are experienced the risk is still great.

Q: How do I fix stone chips?
A: Wet sanding is one option. Another is langka. I have never used it, but some people have had great success with it. For more information try http://www.langka.com .

Q: Is it possible to polish out swirl marks by hand?
A: No. Unless you are superman, then you will have no luck whatsoever in removing your swirl marks by hand.

Q: If I can’t remove my swirl marks by hand, then what should I use?
A: You should purchase a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher (PC). Purchase either a 7424 or 7336 model.

Q: I heard that using machines to polish isn’t safe. Someone told me that I could burn a hole in my paint. Is this true?
A: It depends on the machine. Rotaries can definitely burn a hole in paint even when used by an experienced professional. A random orbital polisher like the PC is completely safe even for a total beginner.

Q: What is the difference between a rotary and an orbital? Why is one safe and the other isn’t?
A: Rotaries spin in a consistent circle. If you leave it on the same spot for too long then the heat generated by the consistent motion can burn a hole in your paint. Conversely, an orbital does not spin in a consistent circle, but rather a random spinning motion. This randomness makes the polisher safe (regardless of how long it is left in the same spot) because it does not generate anywhere near the same amount of heat as a rotary.

Q: I already have a craftsman (or other brand that’s not a PC) orbital. Is this ok to use instead?
A: No. Most other orbitals are one speed (the PC is six) and their motors bog down as soon as they touch your paint rendering them useless. The biggest advantages of the PC are it’s variable speeds and strong motor.

Q: Can I use the foam pad that came with the PC for polishing?
A: I personally wouldn’t. Get yourself some quality foam pads made by meguiars or lake country and a velcro backing plate.

Q: What is the difference between the 7424 and 7336 models?
A: The 7424 comes packaged with a 5” counterweight while the 7336 comes with a 6“ counterweight.

Q: Why should I care about this?
A: The purpose of the weight is to minimize the vibration of the machine when using it with different size backing plates. You should always match backing plate diameter with counterweight size. For example, 6” plate with a 6” counter weight, and so on. Since most foam pads on the market are made in 6” diameters or greater, this necessitates the purchase of a 6” backing plate, and thus a 6” counterweight. This makes the 7336 the ideal model because it comes with the 6” weight.

Q: Why do you recommend the 7424 then?
A: Because it seems that the 7336 is not always as readily available. Buying the 7424 and then changing it to the 6” weight will give you the same machine.

Q: How is the PC so much better than my hand if it does not generate a lot of heat?
A: True, the PC may be safe and produce minimal heat. But it does have the ability to produce more even and uniform results that are not achievable by hand. The PC may not produce the heat of a rotary, but it still does an excellent job of breaking down the abrasives in medium to fine polishes. Your hand will have a hard time breaking down any abrasive in any polish.

Q: What abrasive polish do you recommend?
A: Use 3M Finesse It II polish with a foam cutting pad.

Q: What is your opinion of polishes like meguiars dual action cleaner polish (DACP) and meguiars and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (SMR)?
A: Don’t waste your time with 3M SMR, Meguiars SMR, or DACP. All three products have oils and fillers in them. They will not give you a true indication as to how many swirls were removed. You’ll need to clean the oils out to determine this. This, IMHO, is a waste of time. Fi2 has no oils or fillers. You’ll know right away how many swirls you have removed.

Q: You recommend polishing with a finer polish to remove the haze caused by the more abrasive polish. Why does the more abrasive polish haze to begin with? Is this a defect?
A: No. The more abrasive polishes are supposed to work this way. They will remove the bigger swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level some clear off your car. The abrasives won’t break down enough to leave a totally uniform finish, thus producing a hazy look. To remove the haze you will need to step up to a finer polish.

Q: How does polishing remove swirls?
A: As stated above, polishing will remove swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level (remove) some clear off your car.

Q: What is 'Compounding'? I've heard the term used before, but I don't know what it means. Is it the same as polishing?
A: Compounding is the same as polishing, except compounding requires the use of a very abrasive polish, usually a rubbing compound.

Q: Is 3M Finesse It 2 considered to be a rubbing compound? Is it very abrasive?
A: No. FI2 is not in the same category as a rubbing compound. FI2 is more of a mild to medium polish.

Q: Is polishing safe in general?
A: My general rule is to polish a car once and ensure it never has to be polished again by following proper washing and drying technique. Poor wash and dry technique is the number one cause of swirl marks. Polishing too often, regardless of machine, will eventually wear out your clear coat necessitating a repaint.

Q: How do I avoid swirl marks?
A: As stated above, follow proper technique when washing and drying your car. Do not go through car washes with brushes. For proper wash and dry technique see these links:

Washing - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113670

Washing in Winter - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=149244

Drying - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113671

Q: Should I use my PC to apply my mild polish?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.

Q: What mild polish do you recommend?
A: Klasse All In One (AIO).

Q: Can you outline the proper way to polish with a PC?
A: Yes. See the following article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...25&pagenumber=1

Q: What is difference between cleaning and polishing?
A: Cleaning will remove any buildup of oxidation and other crap in your paint. Polishing, as stated, will remove swirl marks using diminishing abrasives. Polishing will level off trace amounts of clear coat while cleaning will not.

Q: Is it really necessary for me to clean my paint?
A: Yes. When you take a shower do you only wash your hair and leave the rest undone? I didn’t think so. When detailing, every step is equally important in achieving the best results.

Q: Should I use my PC to apply my cleaner?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.

Q: What product do you recommend as a cleaner
A: I recommend Klasse AIO.

Q: I’m confused, I thought AIO was a mild polish?
A: It is both an excellent mild polish and excellent cleaner. Klasse AIO is the single best product on the market for cleaning and mild polishing. Using this product will help you combine two steps into one during your detail, making your life easier.

Q: I always thought you were against two-in-one products?
A: Usually I am (ex. cleaner waxes). AIO is an exception to this rule.

Q: Why should I seal and/or wax
A: Sealants and waxes will protect your newly detailed surface from the harsh elements of nature.

Q: What is the difference between a sealant and a wax?
A: A sealant is usually a synthetic polymer, while a wax is usually made of carnuba. Synthetic sealants are much more durable than waxes. They also provide better protection because they cross-link and bond to your paint providing a strong barrier. Carnuba waxes do not bond and cross-link. They merely ‘sit’ on top of your paint.

Q: Which one do you recommend?
A: It depends on what you expect out of a protectant, how often you like to wax/seal, and the type of look you like. Sealants give a more glass like look, while carnuba waxes offer more warmth and depth. If you enjoy waxing often, don’t care about durability, and like the warm look, then go with carnuba. If you are lazy and want to wax as minimally as possible while still getting protection and a nice shine, then use a sealant.

Q: How often should I wax or seal?
A: Wax once a month if you choose the wax route. Seal every six months if you choose the sealant route

Q: What do you do?
A: I use both. I apply three layers of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (SG) spaced one week apart after my weekly wash. On the fourth week I apply a carnuba wax. My carnuba of choice is Blitz Wax by One Grand. Then I wait six months and start the whole process over again. All I do is wash in between.

Q: Are there any drawbacks of applying a wax over a sealant.
A: Possibly. You may encounter some ghosting or hazing of the wax. This is because klasse SG and carnuba do not entirely get along.

Q: How likely is this?
A: In my experience it is not very likely but still worth mentioning, only because I want to be upfront with everyone. It has only happened to me once a couple of summers ago on a section of my hood. For the most part you probably won't notice it. Many, many, if not all klasse users top with a carnuba and are very happy.

Q: What does the haze look like?
A: Hazing or ghosting is hard to explain. It will look like a thin film of carnuba that moves around on the surface in the direction of your last towel swipe.

Q: Is it necessary to apply three coats of Klasse SG?
A: No it's not necessary to apply three coats. Three coats are more for appearance than protection. Though, some people like to apply more than one coat to ensure they have good even coverage everywhere.

Q: Is it necessary to add a carnuba on top?
A: No it is not. Carnuba is added only for looks. It will have no bearing when used with SG. SG is an infinitely better protectant than any carnuba will ever be. Topping with a carnuba will give you the best of both worlds. The klasse shine and protection combined with the warmth and depth of a carnuba.

Q: After I apply a carnuba can I put more SG on?
A: No. SG will not bond to the carnuba wax. In order to add more SG you will have to strip your paint with AIO and start SG’ing from scratch.

Q: Can I use any carnuba wax as a topper for my SG?
A: No. You must use a pure carnuba wax. If you use a ‘cleaner’ wax then you will strip the SG off. Cleaner waxes are dual products that clean, as the name implies, and add a layer of wax. Save those types of products for your beater.

Q: How long do I have to wait between layers of SG?
A: Wait AT LEAST 24 hours. Polymers need time to cure and cross-link (harden) before the next layer can be applied. Adding a new layer before this will just ‘gum up’ the previous layer negating any benefit you may have realized from layering in the first place.

Q: Are cure time and dry time the same thing?
A: No. Dry time is the time UNBUFFED product sits on your paint before buffing it off. Cure time is the time BETWEEN buffed coats of a product.

Q: What is the proper way to apply and remove SG?
A: See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113675

Q: Can I apply Klasse SG immediately after I apply AIO, or do I have to wait? Does the AIO need to cure first?
A: You can apply SG immediately after the AIO. AIO has no cure time.

Q: Can you tell me what detailing products you recommend and where they can be purchased?
A: Yes. See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=151298

Well that’s all for now. Any more questions, post or PM me and I will add them to the above list.

Cheers! :

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=157211

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Which detailing products to buy and where to get them

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic articles. The following article outlines the detailing products I recommend for use. Please note my objective is to recommend products that I know for a fact work well, either because I have used them, or because I know countless others who have used them with success. If you feel the desire to experiment with other products then please go ahead, but I most likely will not be able to speak for their effectiveness.

First, I am going to list all the possible detailing stores I can think of. I will break it down into two sections, local and online. I will add to the list as I can think of and find more vendors.

Local
USA: Pep-Boys, Autozone, Walmart, Target, Kmart, UAP/NAPA
Canada: Canadian Tire, Walmart, Zellers, UAP/NAPA

Online
http://www.autogeek.net , http://www.properautocare.com , http://www.tacscar.com , http://www.pinnaclewax.com , http://www.klassedirect.com , http://www.topoftheline.com , http://www.pak-shak.com , http://www.autofiber.com , http://www.zainobros.com , http://www.zainostore.com , http://www.car-fanatic.com/ (Zaino in Canada), http://www.meguiars.com , http://www.3m.com , http://www.leatherique.com , http://www.lexol.com , http://www.303products.com ,

As for the actual products I use:

Car Wash

I recommend buying a gallon jug of Meguiars Gold Class wash. I have not personally used it but I have heard good things. It's cheap and it suds well. Available locally.

I personally use the Mothers California Gold wash. I buy mine from Canadian Tire (CT). If I could buy Gold Class, I probably would, but they don’t stock it on the shelves.

Wash Mitt

Buy the chenille/cotton Viking wash mitts. Available locally. I use the Simoniz chenille/cotton mitts from CT.

Towels

Buy the cheap 8-10 pack cotton towels for your doorjambs and the other nasty places. Available locally.

Good towels

Buy MF towels from pakshak.com. They have a package where you can get 10 mf's and 1 waffle weave. Can't remember how much. Use the waffle weave to dry and the other mf's for removing wax polish, and sealant.

I’m personally still using my Charisma cotton towels.

Clay

Buy Mothers or Clay Magic. They work well and they are available locally. I use Mothers. I buy it from CT. Clay magic is not available in Canada locally.

Abrasive Polish

Buy 3M Finesse It 2. It is available locally at any UAP/NAPA.

Mild polish/Paint cleaner

Klasse All In One (AIO). Available online from many of the places listed above.

Sealant

Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG). Available online from many of the places listed above.

Wax

P21S/S100 or Blitz. S100 is available at any Harley-Davidson Dealer. Blitz and the P21S branded wax (exact same as S100) will need to be ordered online. Available online from many of the places listed above.

Quick Detailer

Mother California Gold QD for a carnuba QD or Meguiars Final Inspection for a non-carnuba based QD. Both are available locally.

Wheel and Tire Cleaner

I usually just use car wash soap. If they are really dirty, I use either Eimann Fabrik High Intensity Cleaner, available from http://www.properautocare.com , or I use Eagle One A2Z available locally. Be warned, A2Z WILL dull your rims if you use it more than once a month/2 months.

Tire dressing

For now I'm using Meguiars High Endurance (Glossy) or 303 (Low Gloss). Meguiars can be purchased locally, while 303 can be bought locally at any boat store (so I'm told). In Canada, 303 can be purchased at boat stores and Zellers as well. 303 and Meguiars are also available online.

Glass

I use a damp towel to wipe off. I don’t use any Sprays or Cleaners.

Polishers

I recommend the Porter Cable (PC) 7424/7336 Random Orbital Polisher. It can be purchased locally in Canada at Canadian Tire, and in the USA at Lowes. The best PC buy is the kit sold by http://www.coastaltool.com .

Foam pads for Polisher

I personally use the Meguiars Soft Buff pads. They can be purchased online from http://www.Meguiars.com , and http://www.properautocare,com . They can be purchased locally in Canada from CT through their Keystone Catalogue.

The best bet for Americans is the special offered by http://www.topoftheline.com . They sell the Lake Country pads (just as good as Meguiars), in a package of 6 for $45.

OR

If you didn’t buy the Coastaltool kit and need a backing plate as well, you may want to check out the DM-KIT sold by http://www.properautocare.com .

Velcro Backing Plate for Polisher

I use the 6” 3M Velcro backing plate. I bought it from UAP/NAPA.

For Americans, try UAP/NAPA, or one of the online places

That should cover it. Any questions, let me know.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=151298

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How to: Properly Wash your Car

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The first installment pertains to something we should ALL be doing, that being, washing our beloved Bimmers.

First some basic rules:

1. You should always wash your car out of direct sunlight. I usually wash my car in the evening once the sun starts to set giving me enough shade on my driveway. This will help to avoid water spots.

2. Don't ever wash your car immediately after driving it. Two reasons for this;
-Your rotors are still hot. Spraying cold water on them will cause them to warp
-Your hood will also be warm, making it more susceptible to nasty hard water spots

Washing:

1. Use a nozzle gun that will allow you to control the intensity of the water you are spraying onto your vehicle.

2. Always start with your rims, rubber, and wheel wells. Start with the two front wheels since they are the dirtiest. Fill up one bucket with car wash soap. Spray the rim, rubber, and well with water. Mist the rim lightly. Use full force on the rubber, and well. Dip a sponge in the soap. Start by cleaning the rim. When complete, mist off the soap. Spray water on the sponge at full force to clean the gunk from the rim off of it. Wring out the water when complete. Dip the sponge back in the soap, and clean the well. Spray the soap off when complete. Clean the sponge with water, wring it out and place it back in the bucket. Clean your rubber by using a tire brush. Try scooping only the suds from the top of the bucket onto the bristles. Work the suds into the sidewall until you are satisfied they are clean. Use full pressure water to clean the soap off. Use the full pressure from the nozzle to clean the brush. Place it back in the bucket. Repeat this process for the next 3.

3. When finished step 2, clean the sponge and brush as outlined in step 2. Dump the soap from the bucket and rinse the bucket out with clean water.

4. Fill up the now clean bucket from step 3 and another clean bucket with car wash soap. I usually put 4 or 5 cap fulls of soap in my bucket. It allows my to fill up the bucket with more water half way through my wash, and still maintain good suds. Put two different dedicated 100% chenille wash mitts into each bucket. Do not re-use the sponge from step two on your paint! One bucket/mitt will be used to clean all horizontal surfaces and all vertical surfaces above the middle of the door. The other bucket/mitt will be used to clean all areas of the car below the middle of the door. Why am I doing this you ask? Well, the areas below the door tend to be dirtier, thus you wouldn’t want to use the same mitt on the horizontal areas as it will most likely cause swirls. I use two buckets because it allows me to keep my wash water cleaner during the process. Using one bucket will guarantee dirty water and in turn create swirls.

5. Start by washing the highest part of your car and working your way down.

You should mist the roof and front and rear windows with water. Dip your sponge for your top part of the car into its bucket. Gently glide the mitt over the paint. Try not to apply pressure. The weight of your arm should be enough. Go in a front to back motion, NOT circular. I can't stress this enough. Why? Well, if you get grit trapped in your mitt, it will create swirls in your paint. Front to back swirls are much harder to see than circular, minimizing the damage. Do half the roof. Flip your mitt over and do the other half of the roof. Then use the remaining soap on the mitt to clean the front and rear windows. Rinse the roof and windows with misting water. Rinse the mitt by spraying both sides with full force.

Wring the water out, dip it in the bucket and begin cleaning the hood. Do half the hood with one side of the sponge, the other half with the other side. Rinse the hood with misting water. Clean the mitt and wring it out. Put it back in its dedicated bucket.

Take the bottom mitt and begin cleaning the front grill, headlights and front bumper, fogs, etc. Rinse the area with water. Rinse the mitt and place it back in its bucket.

Move onto the trunk. Take the sponge for the top and clean the trunk lid. Flip it over and clean the back of the trunk above the bumper. Rinse the areas and rinse the mitt.

Take the bottom mitt and clean the area below the bumper. Rinse the area and rinse the mitt.

Take the sponge for the top and clean the rear quarter panel, flip the mitt over and clean the rear door (if you have a sedan) above the molding. Take the remaining soap and clean the frame above the window and the window itself. Rinse the door and quarter panel, window and the mitt.

Do the same thing for front fender and front door. Rinse the area and mitt. Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Take the mitt for the bottom part and clean the front door below the molding. Flip the mitt over and clean the rear door. Use the remaining soap to clean the rocker panel. Rinse the area and the mitt.

Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Your car is now complete!


Just some general notes:

Always mist the area with water before washing it with the mitt.

Always mist the paint when washing the soap off. Directing a high-pressure spray is not good for the clear coat.

Always go in front to back motions with the mitt.

Always glide the mitt over the area.

Always rinse the mitt with a full spray before dipping it back into the buckets. This will ensure the mitt and wash water stays clean

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113670

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How to: Properly Dry your Car

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The second installment pertains to drying our cars after washing them.

Once you have completed washing your car you should remove the nozzle from the hose. Turn the water on and let it fall on the horizontal surfaces starting from the roof, and working down to the trunk and hood. This will sheet most of the water off the paint. Once the water has finished sheeting, take a quality cotton or MF towel and blot the remaining water off your paint. Try not to rub. Rubbing is the enemy, even on clean paint. It is still possible to create micro scratches while drying if rubbing.

Use separate towels to dry the rims, paint, glass, and door jambs. If you dry immediately after you wash then you should not get any water spots on your windows, eliminating the need to use ammonia based window cleaners.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113671

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How to: Properly Clay your Car

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The third installment pertains to claying our cars.

Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:

2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car

Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.

Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.

When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), clean the paint, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113673

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How to: Properly Polish your Car using your PC 7424 / 7336

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The fourth installment pertains to polishing our cars using the PC.

Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to polishing.

If you have swirl marks that require removal, I would recommend that you use 3M Finesse It 2 (fi2) polish with a foam-cutting pad. Don’t waste your time with 3M SMR, Meguiars SMR, or DACP. All three products have oils and fillers in them. They will not give you a true indication as to how many swirls were removed. You’ll need to clean the oils out to determine this. This, IMHO, is a waste of time. Fi2 has no oils or fillers. You’ll know right away how many swirls you have removed.

Apply three lines of polish around the edge of the pad. Take the polisher and smear the product into the section you are going to work while the polisher is off. This will totally eliminate splatter. Do 2x2 sections at a time. Turn the machine on, and work the product in @ speed 2. Go in up and down and then back and forth overlapping motions. When the polish starts to dry, up the speed to 4-4.5 and buff off as much as you can. The shine should start to come thru. Use a quality cotton or MF towel to remove any remaining residue. Do each 2x 2 section as many times as you have to until the swirls are gone. I use a 1000-watt halogen light on a tripod to help me see my progress.

FI2 will most likely leave a brushed haze in your paint. This is OK. The product is supposed to work this way. It will remove the bigger swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level some clear off your car. The abrasives won’t break down enough to leave a totally uniform finish. To remove the haze you will need to step up to a finer polish.

I recommend Klasse All In One (AIO) for this. AIO, IMHO, is the very best pre-wax or pre-sealant cleaner on the market. The product is truly outstanding! Apply AIO using a foam-polishing pad. Apply AIO in the same manner that fi2 was applied. If you have a black car, you may need to do each section twice with aio to remove the haze.

Once complete, apply a quality wax or sealant of your choice to protect the finish. I would recommend Klasse Sealant Glaze topped with blitz.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113674

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How to: Properly Apply and Remove Klasse SG

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The fifth installment pertains to applying and removing Klasse SG.

Make sure your paint is totally clean prior to SG’ing.

In order to apply SG, you should do the following:

1. Take a terry covered foam applicator and spray it with water. Squeeze it as much as you can so that most of the water gone. All you should have is a damp applicator. This will make the SG more pliable.

2. Apply a couple of drops of SG to your applicator and apply it to a section of your car (1/3 of the hood, half of the roof, etc) in a front to back motion. Once you have covered the whole section with SG, immediately wipe off the residue with a DRY charisma or MF towel in a front to back motion.

3. Repeat step 2 for every section until the whole car is done.


Notes:

- As mentioned before, wipe the SG off immediately, no dry time is necessary.

- The SG should wipe off very easily leaving behind a slick, smooth, and glossy finish.

- You should use no more than 1oz. of SG per coat on a regular size car (BMW 3 Series, Mercedes-Benz C-Class)

- Only perform step 1 one time, before applying SG to the first panel. You do NOT need to spritz your applicator with water before applying SG to each section. Once you apply SG to a couple of sections the applicator will be wet enough with SG, negating the need for more water.

-Do not use any water or QD to aid in removal of SG. This will just make the klasse haze down the road. I've also experienced this.

-Wait AT LEAST 24 hours before applying another coat of SG. SG needs time to cure and bond to your paint surface. I would personally wait a week. If you've driven the car ANYWHERE, then wash it before applying the next layer, or else you will just re-swirl your car.

-Put on three coats of SG, and you will be good to go.

-If you desire more warmth and depth in your paint, then apply a carnuba wax a week after you’ve applied the third layer of SG. Make sure you wash before you wax. You may experience some streaking or ghosting of the wax. I did, but it wasn’t enough to bother me. This is because SG and carnuba (any carnuba) don’t entirely get along. Consider yourself warned.

Edit/Addition - Sept 13 - 2003

I'd like to add three things:

1. You can use any pure carnubax wax after your third coat of SG. Just make sure it is not a 'cleaner' wax, or it will strip your SG. Good waxes to use include blitz, p21s/s100 and pinnacle.

2. You cannot add more sg after you have waxed. SG does not bond to wax. Make sure your SG is perfect before applying your carnuba wax. If you really want to add a 4th layer of sg, go for it, but as stated do it before the wax. IMHO, once you wax, you can't go back without starting over from scratch.

3. I'd like to clearly define the difference between dry time and cure time.

Dry time - The time UNBUFFED product sits on your paint before buffing it off.

Cure time - The time BETWEEN buffed coats of a product. Some products like SG require time to cure and bond to your paint before the next layer is applied.

In my article I suggest that SG requires zero dry time, and at least 24 hour cure time.

edit sept 17:

I just applied a new coat of SG with a terry applicator. It goes on much smoother, than with foam, which is what I initially recco'd. I've changed the article to outline this.

Edit March 27th - I no longer advocate misting the applicator with QD when applying the SG. I recommend using ONLY water. Reason is because there are too many different QD's out there with different ingredients that can affect the SG.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=113675

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How to: Wash your car in the winter

Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The following article pertains to winter washing.

I know many of the detailing pros in the forum may disagree with the content in this article. Winter washing can be a very tricky subject. My main objective when washing in the winter is to keep the salt and other dirt off of my car, and ensure that it stays swirl free. I’m not necessarily looking for the perfect shine.

I’ve come to accept the reality that my car will not stay clean for more than one day in the winter. No sooner do I wash it, it starts snowing, and the salt trucks are out in full force not long after that. With that said, I decided that it wasn’t worth it for me to freeze my pants off attempting to hand wash my car in my garage with warm water. The effort always seemed wasted. I needed to find a way to get the dirt off without damaging my finish in any way. Thankfully, I found it.

Imho, the most effective and painless way I have found to wash my car in the winter is to go through a touchless automatic car wash found at my local gas station. Touchless washes have many advantages:

- They don’t use any brushes whatsoever. No contact is made with your paint.
- They use recycled water. Many believe this is a bad thing. I don’t think it is. Recycled water tends to be softer, thus reducing the potential for hard water spots. Most reputable places will filter the reused water ensuring it is clean prior to reuse on your car.
- Many automatic car washes will also wash the underbody of your car, another area where salt can stick and cause damage.
- The water pressure is not directed at a concentrated area of your car, rather it is dispersed evenly everywhere with the express purpose of cleaning the finish safely.

The biggest key to avoiding swirls from a touchless wash is TO NOT DRY THE CAR AFTER YOU EXIT THE WASH!!!. Let the car dry on its own. Why you ask? Well, as good as touchless washes are, they will never replace a good home hand wash. There will still be a very thin film of dirt present on your paint. Guess what happens if you rub a towel on your paint with dirt on it? That’s right, nasty swirl marks will appear. Not a good thing. As mentioned before, there is no need to worry about water spots, because the water is recycled.

What I would recommend is wiping off your door-jambs and door sills, as water may find its way in there.

Many people advocate visiting a coin operated hand wash place. My question is why?? It’s really no different than hand washing at home. And I’ve already told you why I don’t like that. I also don’t like the high pressure of the spray nozzle. You could potentially push dirt into your clear coat.

I’m also not a fan of the quick detail in between washing, or worse yet, as a replacement for washing. No amount of qd can replace the thick suds of good car wash soap. No qd can lubricate and safely lift winter dirt and salt off your car safely. I guarantee you will create swirls using this method. Remember, friction is the enemy. The less you touch your car, the less micro marring you put in the clear coat. This goes not only for winter washing and drying, but also for year round washing and drying.

Many people have also expressed concern about the aggressiveness of the soap used at touchless washes. Will it dull my paint? Will it strip my wax or sealant? The answers are no, and no. I’ve been taking my cars thru touchless washes for the last few years and have encountered no problems to date. My klasse sealant glaze always sheets water the first time I hand wash my car in the spring. This tells me that there is still SG left on my paint. The fact that there is still a thin film of dirt present on my paint after existing the wash is another indicator that the soap is not as aggressive as believed.

It’s also very important to clay and use a paint cleaner on your paint during your big spring detail. Performing these two steps are the best ways to rejuvenate your finish after a harsh northern winter.

I can vouch for this method 100%. I have not had any issues with it. In my opinion it is the very best and most practical way to care for your car in the winter.

To view the original thread and read the discussion, see the following link:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...threadid=149244

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That's it! The entire series in one thread. I will add/change each article as I find new information and techniques.

You can post your questions here or view the original thread for any of the articles and post your questions there.

Hope you find this helpful.

David.

[royalflush313]

for the finishing touch, try AutoGlym's Extra Gloss Protection. Easy to use and the results are great.

And get couple microfiber cloths too.

You wont fuck up your paint unless you are using a buffer, but the results from using a buffer is really satisfying.
Detailing supplies add up and become expensive, and if detailing is not your thing, you should just take it in to a reputable place.
Just get some basic supplies, light polish, finishing wax, car wash soap, good wash mitt, microfiber cloths, and maintain the cleanliness, after its been professionally cared for.

[808BMW]

Wash.
Use this:

http://www.malcopro.com/cgi-win/mselect.exe/1117

Use this:

http://www.malcopro.com/cgi-win/mselect.exe/1144

Change shorts.

[Schniddy]

I spend half of my summer learning about detailing and what to buy and stuff like that! I spend around 300 bucks on everything I need.

Couple tips ( the above posts are really good aslo)

If your not that experienced with detailing buy a portercable! It saves so much time and give excelent results! You will need to get a special backplate plus a bunch of pads ( I bought 3 white, 2 yellow, 1 gray)

Dont forget your towels! They are probably the most improtant thing after for detaliing! After you wash your car you dont wanta use cotton towles and put more swirl marks back on. So spend about 40 bucks on towels and get some nice Micro Fiber towels. I got mine from http://www.exceldetail.com/Index.html ( he even gave me a free mint with my purchase!)

Here is a list of some of the very important things i bought! i suggest you try the same!!.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/tps-clay-f80y.html

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/1z-930606.html

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/1z-930306.html

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kla-10.html

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kls-gla.html

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/p21-127.html

the last link, i didnt get but i suggest you pick of that wax, its the very best for the price!

hope this helps a little!! btw those articles on that autopia site reallly help to IMO!

[bmwm3n528]

3M Cleaner Wax is the answer to all your questions...

[BS87]

Yes, i have heard some good things when it comes to slight oxidation and 3M Cleaner wax.

[spencers]

I've been following a thread on DTMpower by CMT about his detailing experiences.

He does the normal wash and everything, but on the last two steps, he uses Clearkote Vanilla Moose as the wax, and Poorboys EX-P for the sealant as the last step.

I ordered me some today, and I'm gonna see for myself.

Check out the thread here http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?t=133083&page=1&pp=15[/url]

Teaser:

[bimmerphile]

https://www.autopia-carcare.com

all you gotta know

[Spaz]

www.autopia-carcare.com

all you gotta know

ahhh thats the spot.