Clean rear seat delete

[Joe G]

did it today. The Fabric glue is drying, pics up tomorrow.

its just black fabric for now, but i plan on doing it with the proper interior materials down the road. It cost me ~$20 for everything.

Im pumped to install it and see how it looks. Each panel weighs about 3lbs.

[SimplyDope]

Can't wait for those pics.

[89DelphinE30]

did it today. The Fabric glue is drying, pics up tomorrow.

its just black fabric for now, but i plan on doing it with the proper interior materials down the road. It cost me ~$20 for everything.

Im pumped to install it and see how it looks. Each panel weighs about 3lbs.

Would you happen to still have your measurements?

[Joe G]

Back piece is 20" high and 52 wide

bottom piece is 20.5 deep and 52 wide.
Then just tset fit and cut for the fender wells, hook/tabs, and the pole on the passenger side.

[Simon S]

Wow - I really like the look - and the idea added storage space.

This would also open up possibilities of customizing something cool for Luke-box-esk sub installs. Avoiding the challenge and expense of sourcing a ski seat. The trick would be to put a clever grill or removable door in the ‘back board’.

I remember reading about guys who made ‘mistake’ of listening to their systems sans rear seat – and then had to suffer knowing how much sound was getting dampened.

I suppose if you had to get some extra people somewhere – it’s not like they couldn’t still sit back there – albeit less comfortably (wouldn’t want any wires to get pinched). And/or – I think I’d actually appreciate the excuse to say “Sorry, my car only seats two.”

What tricks do you guys use to fasten boards down?

[Joe G]

I used the hooks that are at the top of the back piece and the peg thongs that hold the bottom seat. Then I put heavy duty Velcro on the boards/metal and that's it. I autocrossed the car Saturday and everything stayed in place.

[Schnitzer318is]

I remember reading about guys who made ‘mistake’ of listening to their systems sans rear seat – and then had to suffer knowing how much sound was getting dampened.

I was one of those guys. Immediately had to cut holes in my rear seat and put ports through it...

I used to make these for mustangs back in the day (made decent money too)... http://www.crystalworks.gotstang.com/, I haven't checked on the site in forever. Wonder if it is still up?

EDIT: yep it's still up... lol some broken links though it looks like.

[StereoInstaller1]

Hmmm. Wonder if I should do something like this, maybe with an integrated sub?

I do have to say ALL of those posted are butt-ugly IMO. I would fire a guy if they made something like that in my shop.

Parker wants to do a 'vert seat and panels wrapped around his cage (I think that is dumb too, but Parker is like my retarded son so I will do it) but his first idea was an RX-7 like ass end with cubby holes with lids and such...maybe I will do something like this when it is closer to summer.

You guys want the sub box in the trunk or in the cabin?

[SimplyDope]

Cabin! In front of the rear axle?

[Simon S]

I used the hooks that are at the top of the back piece and the peg thongs that hold the bottom seat. Then I put heavy duty Velcro on the boards/metal and that's it. I autocrossed the car Saturday and everything stayed in place.

ah- Cool. Shit – that’s just too easy!

I have to ask: Could you/would you sit in that area if needed?

Can you describe any conflict areas where seat belt hardware or wiring bundles were troublesome?

I was one of those guys. Immediately had to cut holes in my rear seat and put ports through it...

Oh man - i'm sorry. lol

I guess that does indeed lend credence toward benefit of removing 5-6 inches of insulative foam padding though.

You guys want the sub box in the trunk or in the cabin?

My vote would be trunk. Having a rear seat deleted – then replaced with a sub box would look kinda tacky – and openly visible to potential hoodlim thieves.

Oh geeze – like I need another project to dream up/justify.. but really – when you do a cost/benefit analysis on a seat delete with an open area to trunk – there’s a lot of benefits. Sound improvement – in particular – would be like getting free subs or amps or something.. shit. Win-win.

[Joe G]

Can you sit on it:

No, since i used a cardboard-ish material, no because it would likely crack. If you used some heavier material then you could definitely sit in it. Also, since the rear seat butt part slopes down and the board is straight there is a void between the board and sheet-metal so it would cave in. i plan on putting some Styrofoam blocks between the two so it will be able to support some weight.

Conflict areas are:

the pole on the passenger side
the fender wells
and the wires on the diver side fender well

I un-bolted all the seat belt brackets so those present no issue. Pics up soon, ive been super busy with work.

[Simon S]

10-4
Thanks much for sharing your results.

[MaksV]

I just stripped it all out. Personally I care more about weight than look so I am happy with it just stripped.

[Joe G]

my delete weighs about 5 pounds total. Maybe less, my recaro speeds weigh less than stock sport seats, so all things considered my interior is has become quite light and clean looking.

Also i have an S50, no power steering, AC, spare tire, or washer fluid reservoir.

so considering the extra power, and other weight reduction i think im doing pretty well.

[Simon S]

You guys want the sub box in the trunk or in the cabin?

Luke - how to you feel about putting R&D into a seat delete kit?

Criteria:

- Simple - Basically two boards cut to shape and covered + two pre-cut carpet pieces to cover wheel well bulges. The pre-cut pieces would be tucked behind boards and hemmed along visible edge. Velcro on wheel well covers to hold them in place. They would essentially just drape over wheel bulge.

– Carpet would be standard ‘box’ carpet. Applied with spray adhesive on front and staples on back.

- 'Sit-able' - Able to support weight of say - two young college girls you need to get to a party.. I’m thinking 3/4" plywood with two support units strategically placed between bottom board and ‘seat’ sheet metal – or maybe an attached, slim ridge board running lengthwise under bottom section – profiled to sheet metal of car.

- On the bottom board, I think if the board was 3/4" thick it would be thick enough to ‘swallow’ up front attachment prongs. Make the prong notches small enough for prongs to grab in as they would on a factory seat. Cut prong slots in board - then cover top surface with carpet. It would be attached - and you wouldn't see it.

– Back board opening: This one is tricky for me. For as blank-ass simple as you’d want the kit to look – you’d really want any door or removable panel to be very understated – or able to blend in very well. It would be a kiss smaller than the ‘punch out’ ski-pass plate opening (so you wouldn't see exposed sheet metal). I’d want to be able to completely open it up – to enjoy maximum breathing – but then also able to cover so amps/speakers in trunk were hidden from view.

– Attachment points. Ideally, I see three sets of points. Bottom would utilize factory attachment prongs. Back would have hook hardware to hook into factory slots. Small/simple brackets from back board to factory attachment bolt points. Have back board hold down bottom board per attachment and fitment.


The wildest thing for me about all this is that it provides such a significant increase in existing equipment performance – yet there’s no ‘equipment’ involved with the upgrade. A huge improvement in sound – without adding any actual sound equipment (just plywood and carpet).

Once you worked through development, and profile/clearance shapes, templates would make generating kits quick and easy.

Finished kit suggested retail at ~$60 ea – with bulk-purchased material costs averaging $20 per kit ? They’d be a bear to ship – but less of a bear than a sub box..