Help?! - MTech II Wheel install issue! Wheel wont go down far enough / rubs / weird..
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Another thing, did you put a spacer on top of the wheel underneth the lock nut? Because if you don't, you'll run out of threads before the wheel is completely seated. -
One more thing, have you tried reinstalling your old wheel? Its may be unlikely but do you think the whole locking mechanism bracket it bent upwards? Possibly from tightening the wheel down while it was binding? In your closeup photo of the wheel and column, it appears that the wheel is contacting the base of the locking mechanism.Leave a comment:
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I really hate to keep pressing the issue but in all honesty, installing the wheel shouldn't be all that hard. Please don't take any of this in offense. All I'm saying is that whatever the issue may be, its something simple.
In your photos I see the wheel almost on but there is no key in the ignition? Try this, remove the wheel completely, put the key in the ignition and cycle it. Does the locking pin move up and down? Hopefully it isn't damaged from previous attempts. With the pin fully down and the wheels spacer out, the wheel should slide on easily if your splines aren't damaged.
Again, I'm not trying to be rude in anyway but maybe its something simple your overlooked?Leave a comment:
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Check the splines on the steering wheel. I can't tell if they are damaged or if it's just lubricant. Your ring is missing a tab for the turn signal cancel so perhaps the splines are damaged as well. Only thing I can think of at this point.Leave a comment:
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Hey guys. Today I messed with it a bit. It still isn't seating down as far as I'd like.
The Spacer on the shaft doesn't seem to be the issue. Its not even hitting that. I can spin / wiggle that thing back and forth up the shaft a little bit - essentially it has some play and the wheel isn't even resting on it.
I did shave the white plastic airbag thing off and that made my steering smooth without the clicking you mentioned.
MY horn still wont engage / work and it seems like it needs about another .25'' further to work.Leave a comment:
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Opps, sorry about that. Try removing the spacer on the column behind the wheel. Thats what I had to do when I installed mine. And definitely shave off the white tab or else itll rub, click, and bind on the wheel. I just took a sandlock disc to it and shaved it flush.Leave a comment:
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Just realized you didn't remove the spacers from the shaft. Remove them.Leave a comment:
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You didn't read the whole post. Yes.. I was smart enough to unlock the wheel in my attempts.....
Thanks for the other suggestion everyone else about the white tab. I will hack that out tomorrow and report back.Leave a comment:
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You can actually see the mark on the back of the wheel where its contacting.Leave a comment:
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Put your key in the ignition and put it to the on position. Your steering wheel locking pin is out and stopping it from sliding in all the way.Leave a comment:
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While it's true you need to wedge or remove the white peg it's not what's keeping you from mounting the wheel all the way down. That peg only gets in the way of the wheel turning. From the new pics, it looks like the threads are stripped (are they?) Also, the turn signal cancel on the plastic ring has broken off but that shouldn't keep the wheel from sitting flush either.Leave a comment:
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I don't know if it will lead to what you're experiencing but you need to cut/remove that white plastic cylinder in the second pic - it's for the airbag and gets in the way when you use a non-airbag wheel.Leave a comment:
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Sorry those pics too a few days. Here we go. Ideas / thoughts much appreciated...
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No that's not normal. Not sure whats going on. Did u remove the airbag related stuff from the column? It should go down all the way flush. That's why people complain its too close to the stalks. Take more pics of the wheel removed.Leave a comment:

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