Power Window Woes

[SkorcherX]

1987 325 Coupe.

Passenger side works like a charm. Drivers side does not. Jumped the driver side motor to the battery, it turns.

I checked the voltage to the plug inside the drivers door. 12.3 rolling down and -12.3 when rolling up. I plug the motor in and check the voltage going to the wires in the motors pig tail, same results. I am sure its getting power, unless the multimeter is lying out its ass.

Fuse 17 is not blown. And the Window Breaker in the dash is not popped. Remember the passenger side works flawlessly.

If anyone has been in this situation or has any insight for me I will forever be in your debt. I live where it rains a ton, so if you cant roll up your car, you cant drive the damned thing. I am so close to being able to drive this thing around on a day to day basis and this is the last hurdle to get over.

[SkorcherX]

I lied.

I'm a dumbass and had the multimeter on the wrong setting. The plug from the door to the motor is getting 0.01v and -0.01v. Connection is there... not enough power.

So why is there not enough power?

[SkorcherX]

Also if this helps...



I feel like there must be a break down between the switch and the door plug (the black and violet) wires.

Any response is appreciated.

[dogsbark26]

It is difficult to tell what your "tests" are showing. Even you seem confused about what your test show so try to imagine how difficult it is from here.

It is probably a bad switch. If the switch is getting power, then either the switch is bad or there is a break in the pigtail to the motor.

Trade switches with the passenger side to see if the fault moves with the switch.

[SkorcherX]

Trade switches with the passenger side to see if the fault moves with the switch.

Sorry I did not mention this. Switching the drivers side switch to the passenger side allows for the passenger side to continue working. The Driver's still fails to operate when using the switch from the passenger side.

Switch is getting power. The plug in the drivers door, is getting very little.

[dogsbark26]

So continuity is interrupted between the switch and the motor on the driver side.

Disassemble and clean the connections in the socket/plug connection between the kick panel and door wire harness assemblies. This connector is a common spot for corrosion.

[SkorcherX]

Just to retard proof your suggestion...

Kick panel, as in the speaker panel by my left foot when sitting in the drivers seat correct?

[dogsbark26]

Yes. There is a big white plastic connector located in the door jamb near the driver side kick panel - just beneath the door brake. You do not need to remove the kick panel. The car side of the door wire harness goes to that connector that is inserted in the door jamb (very difficult to remove without damage. I do not recommend attempting to remove the socket side from the door jamb). The door side of the harness is contained in a black rubber? cover just beneath the door brake. Peel back the rubber cover and you should be able to unplug the door side (plug) of the harness from the door jamb side (socket) to access the pins for cleaning. I do not recall the design of the plug and socket to tell you how to unplug it. There are certainly some kind of clips or fasteners you will need to squeeze or otherwise release before the plug will come out of the socket.

[devon.818]

sig'd!

[SkorcherX]

Well... I didn't really do anything... I just kinda moved wires around trying to trace the black and purple wires from the door back to the car... and on a whim I put the multimeter back to the plug and tested... 12.1v WTF?! I thought to myself.

I plugged the motor back in, and it fucking turned. So it kinda fixed itself.

So yay for me. Now I can drive this bitch down to get an alignment.