Electrically deleting 3rd brake light

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  • MC Hammered
    replied
    Bump for help.

    Leave a comment:


  • MC Hammered
    replied
    I tried shorting out the black/green wires together and the brake light indicator in the check panel is still on.

    Here is a pic of the circuit board



    Here is a pic of the hacked up wiring I found. The wire colors are black/green, red/green and brown going into the circuit board.

    Any idea why shorting out the black/green didn't work?

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    Thanks, man...this poor kid thinks I am pissed because he didn't want to pay whatever for some amp, I don't even remember the deal. Whatever it was, it was about 10% over cost, because that is what I charge R3V members, generally.




    What the hell, MBZ transmission?

    Did you lose a bet?

    :)Luke

    Nah, you gotta offer the other r3v pricing, $1.78 shipped



    Some of the cranes I work on use that MBZ stuff. Miserable fuel filter design, and now this temperamental transmission. It's mad that something to do with it's emergency clutch pedal isn't working right. (some solenoid or something) Yes, it has an emergency clutch pedal in the dash that pops out with a hood release handle if the automatically controlled clutch stops working. Weird stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveSmed



    Oh, and FWIW, Luke has helped out more people here than most, with more factual information than most.
    Thanks, man...this poor kid thinks I am pissed because he didn't want to pay whatever for some amp, I don't even remember the deal. Whatever it was, it was about 10% over cost, because that is what I charge R3V members, generally.
    Originally posted by DaveSmed
    That even (especially?) applies to me. That is why I was calling a Mercedes transmission a lot of very bad words Saturday. (STILL don't know what it's complaining about... fucker! Anybody know the BIG Mercedes transmissions?)
    What the hell, MBZ transmission?

    Did you lose a bet?

    :)Luke

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Good deal, glad to hear it worked out for ya.

    Lowenbrow... That sounds like a pretty good idea actually. Off to the store!





    Oh, and FWIW, Luke has helped out more people here than most, with more factual information than most. No one is right %100 of the time (though in this case, he still was but there happened to be a much more elegant solution)

    That even (especially?) applies to me. That is why I was calling a Mercedes transmission a lot of very bad words Saturday. (STILL don't know what it's complaining about... fucker! Anybody know the BIG Mercedes transmissions?)

    Leave a comment:


  • rodrigo
    replied
    ok, Mr. Smed...PM me your mailing address so I can mail you a Lowenbrow! The wiring modification you mentioned works. :)



    can we calm down on the pissing contest, guys. it does not matter who is wrong, as long as the thread comes to a resolution. thie stuff being mentioned needs to be resolved via PM...it is no one else's business. thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    Yeah, I am "busting your chops" because you are completely talking out your ass.

    Stick to shit you know something about, or shut the fuck up.
    haha you need to take it easy, I think you been working too much.

    You dont need to get on my case just because I wasn't interested in buying a 500 dollar amp you were trying to pitch at me, when your business was down. Business probably is still down, I would assume with the economy and all.

    And considering you really didn't know what you were talking about either... that should take a page out of your book. I don't know how you can be so self-righteous being such a huge hypocrite and all.

    Besides, if I was wrong you would just say it politely, and not be so disgruntled with so much derogatory verbage. It's nice and all that you want to bring me down to your level, but no thanks :) you can be disgruntled by yourself.

    Oh and this will be my last post for this thread, so you can have the last word.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Yeah, I am "busting your chops" because you are completely talking out your ass.

    Stick to shit you know something about, or shut the fuck up.

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    My idea will work and does work, Daves is 100% better though.

    Yours, on the other hand is 100% fail.

    Got any snappy replies to that?
    not really, considering you are the one busting my chops first and you didnt really know what you are talking about, i'm just pointing it out. Not trying to have a verbal judo with you, even an online one at that. Go pick a fight with someone else on the forum :P

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by thereisnoyun
    haha you dont know what you are talking about either. Go figures.
    but Dave seem to know his stuff.
    My idea will work and does work, Daves is 100% better though.

    Yours, on the other hand is 100% fail.

    Got any snappy replies to that?

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    WRONG!

    All that will do is pop the fuse, then no "break" lights at all (learn to spell, fuckers!)

    You need to replicate the resistance of the bulb, then all is good.

    Luke
    haha you dont know what you are talking about either. Go figures.
    but Dave seem to know his stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Thats it, the two green/black wires are what you are after. Connecting them together will eliminate that bulbs relay from the series circuit. Everything else will work normally, and Check control will still know when your other lights go out.

    If you want to see what I'm talking about, the third brake light relay is the easiest to get to and it's located right in the third brake light housing itself. (thus the four wires)


    Luke, I love seeing some of the "advice" given at times..... Keep up the good work straightening em out!

    The brake switch IS monitored! When you cycle the ignition, it defaults to a fault condition that you need to have a working brake switch to clear! (well, monitored in a round-about way)

    The people that say it comes on when driving though.... there's only a few things that can cause that, and its NOT the voo-doo that most people attribute it to. Same with the stupid fast blinker problem/turn signal indicator on with parking lights problem. I handled that in another thread today though. ;)

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  • rodrigo
    replied
    thanks for you help on this guys...both of you.
    I will do this tomorrow and post results.

    :)

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveSmed
    )


    Now that thats clear, can anyone provide ANY reasonable explanation as to why the color of the lightbulb base (brass vs. silver) would have any effect on anything?
    Dave, I have been calling BS on that myth since day 1, and gotten some shit about it, too.

    I proved them all wrong when I showed several times that cleaning the contacts on the tail light housing and the check relay/diode board in the left fender fixes the "BULB" indicator issue.

    Thhe next BS line is how a bad brake light switch can cause the same indicator...total bullshit.

    I am so glad to finally see a real explanation of how the check bulb circuit works, thanks so much!

    Luke

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  • rodrigo
    replied
    Jesus Dave...you are a genious (or an electronics engineer with lots of experience).
    I'm going to try your solution.

    Thank you!


    EDIT: just looked. Wires are green/black, green/black, green/brown, and brown.
    Since my neighbor is bombing the neighborhood with fireworks, I can't be out there. Aready covered the BMW with its protective cover.
    Last edited by rodrigo; 07-04-2008, 04:24 PM.

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