'87 325i fog light issue-euro smiley converted

[ELVA164]

First off, I really hope this isn't already answered somewhere because I looked all over. As a disclaimer, I read the independent fog light thread and jumping the pins doesn't work because my car is an early model. I also looked at this DIY and it sounds like people have had trouble with the lights always staying on afterwards, as well as things like smoking fuse boxes (!).

My car is an '87 with a euro smiley conversion I did a few months ago. I didn't rewire the fuse box, I just jumped the relay pins. I just got around to installing fog lights into my iS front air dam, and the process was painless. Plugged the lights right into the stock plugs, tested them and they worked.

My issue is this. With the key in the "on" position or the car running, pressing the fog light button with the lights off does this:


Fog light button pressed with lights in the "running light" position:


Fog light button pressed with lights in the "on" position:


Is there anything I can do to get the fogs to work in the first two positions, or to keep them off when the lights are on? I know the law says only four lights can be on in the front of a vehicle and this would allow 6 with the high beams on.

[DaveSmed]

What did you jump where for your ellipsoid conversion, and why?

Try removing that and see what it does.

[ELVA164]

What did you jump where for your ellipsoid conversion, and why?

Try removing that and see what it does.

Pin 30 on K3 to pin 30 on K4. It allows the low beams to stay on when the high beams turn on. I haven't had a chance yet, but I'd like to check the PN on the fog light relay in my car because I heard it's supposed to be black and mine is orange I believe...it was also suggested that I jump pin 30 on K3 to pin 87a on the same relay.

Girlfriend comes to visit and all car stuff stops...

[DaveSmed]

Yes, you definitely need a diode in K8. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=194334

As an aside, jumping relays on the socket side sucks for a multitude of reasons.

A much cleaner way is to make the same connection under the fusebox, its actually pretty easy.

In the attached pic, snip the yellow wire from the underside of K3, crimp a ring terminal on it, and attach it to that bolt protruding from that tin plate. Much cleaner.

[ELVA164]

Yes, you definitely need a diode in K8. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=194334

As an aside, jumping relays on the socket side sucks for a multitude of reasons.

Alright, I'll have to get that relay then for sure. What does the jump on the socket side do other than affect the aesthetics?

[DaveSmed]

Depending on how its done, it can spread the terminals in the fusebox leading to an intermittent connection to the relay, it can space the relay up a bit leading to insufficient contact between the relay and fusebox, leading to heat build up which can weaken terminals and melt plastic, the quality of the jumper connection to the relay/fusebox might be poor, leading to voltage drop/heat buildup (esp if it's undersized), due to poor routing or a stray strand, a bridge can develop to an adjacent relay contact, etc.



And, it's ghetto/ugly.

[ELVA164]

Depending on how its done, it can spread the terminals in the fusebox leading to an intermittent connection to the relay, it can space the relay up a bit leading to insufficient contact between the relay and fusebox, leading to heat build up which can weaken terminals and melt plastic, the quality of the jumper connection to the relay/fusebox might be poor, leading to voltage drop/heat buildup (esp if it's undersized), due to poor routing or a stray strand, a bridge can develop to an adjacent relay contact, etc.



And, it's ghetto/ugly.

All valid points. If it helps, I took care when making the jump to take the spacing into account and the jumped relay(s) sit effectively as low as the rest. The jump is also insulated. I suppose it's ugly, but I guess I'll just have to keep the prying eyes away from my fuse box and focused on all the dents and scratches ;)

As far as my issue is concerned, it did turn out to be the improper fog light relay. Once I put the proper relay in K8, the unusual light behavior with the fog light button pressed and the disconcerting buzzing stopped. The only remaining thing is the fog lights staying on with the high beams but that's a result of the jump and I'd rather have the ability to choose. Thank you for the info and advice!

[DaveSmed]

Sounds good sir, you didn't just whack some old speaker wire in your fuse box with little care, so yours is probably fine. Electrically, both accomplish the same exact connection.

Glad it was a simple fix too, that took a little while to figure out in that other thread.