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Fuse 23 always blow

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    Fuse 23 always blow

    hi guys,

    my problem started when dimmer switch was busted thus my cluster did not illuminate. i've been searching the net for the solution and i found out that we can jumper a wire from pin 6 to pin 2 which i did and problem solved. unfortunately, it last only for 2 days and found out that fuse 23 blown out so i replace it a new one revert my changes with pin 6 & 2 but still the fuse blows when i turn on the headlight switch.

    any suggestion where i can start checking?

    regards,
    harold
    Last edited by harold30; 08-06-2015, 11:45 PM.

    #2
    no one encountered this problem?

    Comment


      #3
      I had this same problem , Starr checking the gray and red wires that run along the rocker panel under the carpet . I found 5-6 fused/melted together . One had a direct short , but wasn't important. So I cut it and left it .
      1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
      1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
      1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
      1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater

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        #4
        I had a problem similar to this a long ass time ago with my first car, an 84 318i. It was rust in the taillight creating a short. Every time I would turn the lights on the cluster and stuff would go out, and of course the headlights and taillights wouldn't work.

        So no 1 answer to your problem is likely to be the answer you need. Your likely going to have to do some diagnosing of the wiring to find the short. Good luck tho!
        89 325i: 86 535i motor+trans, JE forged pistons, MLS head gasket, ARP head studs, Comp turbo, GoodNTight b34 turbo manifold, e30.de motor mounts, AKG 75D engine/trans mounts, custom 3" exhaust, intercooler, MS2PNP, Megan Racing Coilovers.

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          #5
          Following the short ...

          Originally posted by harold30 View Post
          hi guys,

          my problem started when dimmer switch was busted thus my cluster did not illuminate. i've been searching the net for the solution and i found out that we can jumper a wire from pin 6 to pin 2 which i did and problem solved. unfortunately, it last only for 2 days and found out that fuse 23 blown out so i replace it a new one revert my changes with pin 6 & 2 but still the fuse blows when i turn on the headlight switch.

          any suggestion where i can start checking?

          regards,
          harold
          First thing- you say is your dimmer switch busted - did you replace it yet? There are lots of connections internal to that switch, maybe a few got too intimate and a new one will solve it.

          2nd suggestion was trace the grey/red (various lights) lead - this is an all purpose lead for instruments, controls, license plates, side markers, map, reading, vanity lights, etc. If you have an ammeter, pull the connector off the light switch and check the consumers on this circuit one at a time. Corrosion Happens. Your ETM will show you the items on this lead, there are tons of them. Start with the ones that are not working, then make yourself a checklist or print the page from the ETM then check off as you go.

          Good Luck.
          Last edited by Mo Brighta; 09-06-2015, 06:49 AM.
          Andy says "Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"
          Lighting Upgrades front and back for 2002, E3, E9, E10, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39, and more.
          Tail Light Improvements keep them off your tail.
          Headlight protection saves headlights from breakage.

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            #6
            Wiring diagrams can be found here:

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mo Brighta View Post
              First thing- you say is your dimmer switch busted - did you replace it yet? There are lots of connections internal to that switch, maybe a few got too intimate and a new one will solve it.

              2nd suggestion was trace the grey/red (various lights) lead - this is an all purpose lead for instruments, controls, license plates, side markers, map, reading, vanity lights, etc. If you have an ammeter, pull the connector off the light switch and check the consumers on this circuit one at a time. Corrosion Happens. Your ETM will show you the items on this lead, there are tons of them. Start with the ones that are not working, then make yourself a checklist or print the page from the ETM then check off as you go.

              Good Luck.

              I replaced the dimmer switch with working one that's when other lights went off then after a while my fuse blow again. My cluster light went off but license plates, side markers, map, reading, vanity lights, etc were working again. Will start the grey/red wire and by looking at the diagram it's all over over the place. Will see how far I can go.

              Thanks

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