Radio help.... I am stumped.

[bsop]

Okay, so all day yesterday I worked on rewiring the speakers in my 87is. It has premium sound, and the factory radio was all crackly when the volume was touched, so i decided to get a new head for it. I pulled the interior, ran new wires to all 4 speakers, soldering the connections to ensure that there were no hitches in that department.

When i wired the speakers, all i did was disconnect the old wires and connected the new ones, i spliced the new with the ends of the old because i did not have new plug ends available to me at the time. Anyway, that is not the problem.

The problem is the unit is not getting any power. i connected purple/white to the red ignition power
brown black to black ground
red green to constant power yellow
white to blue antenna.

Those were the only 4 i connected per a few different writeups i saw online. I had to jump the car before testing the radio if that makes a difference, the batt had died previously, and i did not do anything with the factory amp in the read, aside from disconnecting the OEM radio.

Any ideas? i have to work today untill 9 but i plan on trying to solve the problem when i return, refusing to taste defeat and bring it to Best Buy or something.

All suggestions are welcome, Thanks guys.
-Ben

[woodisgood]

check your fuses......

[digital_cowboy]

And if all your fuses are good, spend some $ on a simple multimeter and check the power going to your wires.

[StereoInstaller1]

Buy a TESTLIGHT, not a DVM.

A DVM will read a tiny bit of current as 12V, but you cannot fool a testlight.

[Hatchman]

Who would buy a DVM not a DMM in the first place?

Looks like its up to you to troubleshoot Ben.

[StereoInstaller1]

Who would buy a DVM not a DMM in the first place?

Looks like its up to you to troubleshoot Ben.

Wow, fucking witty there, bucko.

Of course you would buy a DMM, I don't even know if anyone sells a straight DVM...but to test this issue, you would set it to voltage, wouldn't you?

Assuming you were gonna be a retard and use the wrong fucking tool to test a fucking fuse.

Ground the testlight on the deck and check +12V switched and constant.

If no voltage on either, change the ground to the door latch or something, so you can check the ground too.

Generally, the ground is solid brown. I have seen black stripe, too.

GL!
Luke

[Hatchman]

Whoooaaaa nelly, rough day at work man?

I'm just saying I've never seen a Voltage only meter either, PAL.

[bsop]

Quick multimeter question first.... went to wallmart at 1am, just looking for a cheap one, GE digital miltimeter or the "Etek professional" both are under $20 but the Etek one has a light, continuity tester, temp sensor among other things... anyone experienced with the reliability in either department?

[bsop]

Fixed it... well, it was never broken in the first place, but it turns out that when my lights are on... the radio is on, but if the lights are off.... no radio either. a very interesting situation, but im just glad i have music in the bimmer

[GANSTA]

Wow, fucking witty there, bucko.

Of course you would buy a DMM, I don't even know if anyone sells a straight DVM...but to test this issue, you would set it to voltage, wouldn't you?

Assuming you were gonna be a retard and use the wrong fucking tool to test a fucking fuse.

Ground the testlight on the deck and check +12V switched and constant.

If no voltage on either, change the ground to the door latch or something, so you can check the ground too.

Generally, the ground is solid brown. I have seen black stripe, too.

GL!
Luke

Fuck me sideways, you're almost as grumpy as I am when it comes to this sort of thing.

I generally use a DMM for tricky late model cars when I've got time up my sleave, but a really good test light never tells a lie.