tweeter wiring question with aftermarket HU

[StereoInstaller1]

I try to explain it to these guys, but until you actually DO it, it makes no sense.

Oh well, yours is rocking!

Wait till you get your sub on that, then later, add better power to the fronts.

Mind blowing sound from stock crap. I just wish guys here could hear JParkers system!

Luke

[paulkeith]

The wiring I suggested is perfect in place of the stock wiring. I was by no means suggesting that he ADD the new wires to the existing ones. He said he was replacing the stock wiring. Simply unplug the stock wires from the post and replace with the new ones.

WTF.

If you do it exactly as you've described, you fail to close the tweeter circuit (-) back to your headunit's (-).

[digital_cowboy]

Provided the stock tweeter wiring is in place and connected to the mid, here are the only connections you need to make from the HU to the front stock component system:

Headunit to Speaker
RF+ GY/WT wire's post. (Large Post)
RF- GY/BR wire's post. (Small Post)
LF+ GY/RD wire's post. (Large Post)
LF- GY/VI wire's post. (Small Post)

Fuck, man, quit being wrong.

If you leave the tweeter ground wire and the stock mid wire connected to the amp, it WILL fuck up your deck.

You have to make sure the tweeter ground (gray/green) is no longer connected to the harness from the amp.

The wiring I suggested is perfect in place of the stock wiring. I was by no means suggesting that he ADD the new wires to the existing ones. He said he was replacing the stock wiring. Simply unplug the stock wires from the post and replace with the new ones.

WTF.

[StereoInstaller1]

C
I currently have the HPF on the headunit set at 120hz. Its a little gutless, but my sub should clear that up shortly.

Thanks for the help!

Bounce that down to 50Hz, you will be amazed at the quality of midbass from 20 year old stock speakers!

Of course, back up to 120Hz whnn you getz da beatz, yo.

[paulkeith]

Came home from work, did what you described in #11. The tweeter splice is super easy to find, its a big plastic plug taped onto the side of the main kickpanel area wiring harness.

Works great! Unbelievable how much better those stock premiums sound with just a new headunit pushing them.

I currently have the HPF on the headunit set at 120hz. Its a little gutless, but my sub should clear that up shortly.

Thanks for the help!

[StereoInstaller1]

If you pull either front speaker, you can easily see the harness coming from the door.

In that bundle is the tweeter wires.

The tweeter wires are grey/yellow and grey/green.

I cannot think of a single green/anything wire anywhere in an E30 stereo, premium or not.

[paulkeith]

Just realized the two ETM pictures I've posted contradict one another....

Which of the following is correct

Tweeter (-) -> GY/YL -> C405 -> GN/YL -> C407 -> GY/VI

or

Tweeter (-) -> GN/YL -> C405 -> GY/YL -> C407 -> GY/VI

From my original post:



From post #9:



the ETM I have is titled 1989 BMW 325i ETM.pdf. My post #9 diagram came from page 6500-2 of this file. The picture I have in the original post came from another post on r3v and looks like pg 6500-1.

weird?


Long question short, am I looking for a GY/YL wire inbetween C405 and C407, or a GN/YL?

Thanks once again,
Paul

[StereoInstaller1]

Paul, great diagram...ETM FTW!

What I do is IMO far easier. I unplug the grey/yellow from the harness and cut the plug off.

Then, I pull that wire out of the wrapped harness (without unwrapping, BTW) along with the other tweeter wire, the grey/green. Then twist the 2 together so they are tidy.

Then, since I just ran new wire over to the mid, it is very simple to do new connectors, using the stock speaker terminals...but you need to use all 3 open terminals.

The terminal that the GY/VI is connected to is the negative, so connect the negative from the deck AND the negative from the tweeter (grey/yellow) to the same connector.

Speaker positive (from the deck) goes to the terminal that currently has a grey/red.

Obviously, the other wire goes to the tweeter. No need to fuck with the amp, just unplug it.

[reelizmpro]

Yes, there you go. That's the entire point of running your own wiring isn't it? to bypass the factory amp. I wired to the mid and the tweeter "piggybacks" off the mid.

[paulkeith]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

I've run new wire TO the mid and disconnected the gray/red and gray/violet wires, but no changes to the 3rd wire (GRAY/GREEN) running from the mid to the tweet. I realized that I was missing a wire to complete the circuit for the tweeter, so this question came up.

If you leave the tweeter ground wire and the stock mid wire connected to the amp, it WILL fuck up your deck.

You have to make sure the tweeter ground (gray/green) is no longer connected to the harness from the amp.

This is exactly what I was getting at.

Here's what I want to do now:

Plug the gray/red (+) and gray/violet (-) factory connections back into the mid.

Move away from the mid towards the amplifier along the gray/violet and gray/red pair, find where the tweeter wire splices in at C407, and move slightly further upstream towards the amplifier, cut the wires, and run my headunit + to gray/red and - to gray/violet to this point, I should be good to go, right? Essentially isolate the whole wiring set for the mid/tweeter combo from the factory and use it as is, but take the factory amp out of the picture?

Sorry, know these wiring color questions are hard to follow. I appreciate the help.

Thanks again,
Paul

EDIT: got tired of trying to think about it abstract, here's what I mean. will this work?

[StereoInstaller1]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

[reelizmpro]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

[StereoInstaller1]

Provided the stock tweeter wiring is in place and connected to the mid, here are the only connections you need to make from the HU to the front stock component system:

Headunit to Speaker
RF+ GY/WT wire's post. (Large Post)
RF- GY/BR wire's post. (Small Post)
LF+ GY/RD wire's post. (Large Post)
LF- GY/VI wire's post. (Small Post)

Fuck, man, quit being wrong.

If you leave the tweeter ground wire and the stock mid wire connected to the amp, it WILL fuck up your deck.

You have to make sure the tweeter ground (gray/green) is no longer connected to the harness from the amp.

[digital_cowboy]

Provided the stock tweeter wiring is in place and connected to the mid, here are the only connections you need to make from the HU to the front stock component system:

Headunit to Speaker
RF+ GY/WT wire's post. (Large Post)
RF- GY/BR wire's post. (Small Post)
LF+ GY/RD wire's post. (Large Post)
LF- GY/VI wire's post. (Small Post)

[reelizmpro]

I'm not sure I follow you. You wired custom wiring to the mid. Then the tweeter should just piggyback off that connection except it's signal goes thru the cap. I guess you are using the stock tweeter wiring? just hook it up, it should all work.