Subwoofer blown after one day?

[E30FourLife]

I purchased a brand new infinity 10'' subwoofer 1032w, 1000w max, 250 rms, running a 760watt max pioneer amp with 8 guage wiring to the battery and ground.

The sub was sounding great all day until tonight it just stopped working. I got home and the amp is fine, the speaker cone has a crack in it already and wont get any sound unless I press down on the woofer it makes a little noise. Im trying to figure out why I blew so fast. Is 8 guage wiring too little? The speaker wire in the box is 16 gauge i believe. Im running an alpine headunit and stock speakers.

I was running it bridged on the 2 ch amp could that be an issue?

[416stroker]

What pioneer amp model

[416stroker]

And speaker model

[jcb123]

cranka brand new sub the resin hasn't worn in yet ur gona have problems.

you gota ware it in bruuuu!

[slo325i]

cranka brand new sub the resin hasn't worn in yet ur gona have problems.

you gota ware it in bruuuu!

Grade school, much??? haha

Yeah... did you properly break in the sub? I think you're supposed to keep it low volume for like 1-2 hours...

[StereoInstaller1]

What you did wrong is use an incorrect amp/woofer match.

You have an amp that wants to see a 4 ohm mono load, or 2 ohms per channel.

You have a woofer that is either 2 ohms or 8 ohms, so you have 2 choices: either you get 1/2 power out of your amp and the woofer stays safe (we both know you didn't do that, right?) or you wire it wrong (2 ohms mono, gonna work great until the smoke shows) and blow the shit out of the amp, generally.

You got lucky and blew the woofer though. The woofer is cheap compared to your amp (which is also cheap, but WTF, at least 1 seems to be working, right?).

Likely as not you also have one of the POS generic sealed boxes where the woofer flaps around trying to make bass, then have the "bass boost" all the way up, desperately trying to get some boom out of that generic crap in a very specific car. What that means is that only about 35% of the actual bass gets into the car, which means you are gonna push your sub harder, trying to make the damn thing play LOUD, right?

Ain't gonna happen on a $129.95 amp. No matter how many watts it says it has...

So this has nothing to do with cheap shitty wire being too small or any other bullshit, it was just installed by idiots. You bought the wrong shit. Time to learn from your mistakes and move on. It is OK to be an idiot ONCE, but if you keep doing it that is when it becomes an issue.

Luke

[jcb123]

yehh hhaha what i meant to say was:

well my dear sir,
i believe you have exceeded the maximum decibel range in such a short span of time
might i suggest that you use it at an ample range until the resin has worn in sufficiently.

happy :)

[IRON-E]

Take it back to where you bought it and ask for your money back. Let them know that the woofer+amp combo they sold you was a piece of shit.


OT, Luke I have just rewired my amp on Sat. Didn't drive the e30 for a day and yesterday afternoon I went to try to start the car and nothing had power? WTF?

Sorry to troll on your thead bud!

[E30FourLife]

The amp is a pioneer, I think the speaker was a 2 ohm hence my problem. The amp is a 4 ohm. Would I still be able to bridge a 4 ohm sub with this amp or should I run one channel?

[Jean]

Post the EXACT model of the AMP and SUB.

[E30FourLife]

Pioneer GM-5300T Two-Channel Power Amplifier with 760 Watts maximum Power, sub is infinity 1032w

[Jean]

Amp
125 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (190 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
380 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

Sub looks like is a dual 2 ohm..

So, the only options for you to wire are the following.

1) bridge the amp but then wire the sub voice coils in series not parallel (4ohm stable amp in bridged mode into 4 ohm sub). if you wire the sub in parallel you get a 1ohm load and your amp isn't 1 ohm stable into bridged mode.
2) each channel of the amp feeds each voice coil (amp is stable to 2 ohm stereo)

As Luke above said, 4 ohm bridged (mono).

[Fidhle007]

yehh hhaha what i meant to say was:

well my dear sir,
i believe you have exceeded the maximum decibel range in such a short span of time
might i suggest that you use it at an ample range until the resin has worn in sufficiently.

happy :)

HOLY FUCKING SHIT. Learn to WRITE PROPERLY!

[StereoInstaller1]

Amp
125 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (190 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
380 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

Sub looks like is a dual 2 ohm..

So, the only options for you to wire are the following.

1) bridge the amp but then wire the sub voice coils in series not parallel (4ohm stable amp in bridged mode into 4 ohm sub). if you wire the sub in parallel you get a 1ohm load and your amp isn't 1 ohm stable into bridged mode.
2) each channel of the amp feeds each voice coil (amp is stable to 2 ohm stereo)

As Luke above said, 4 ohm bridged (mono).

No, the 1032 is 4 ohm/coil DVC, AFAIK. There is a different model (like 1030?) that is earlier, and is 2 ohm/coil.

I wish to hell that I had a decent 4 ohm 10" that was burly. I might be signing up as a dealer for Resonant Engineering, but their 2 ohm/coil DVC is a beast (3" VC, 57(!) pound triple magnet) and there really isn't anything that works as a 4 ohm woofer in the "medium" status, meaning 500 WRMS power handling, 2.5" VC, etc...which is why I carry an inexpensive 2 ohm stable mono amp.

Luke

[Jean]

My bad...I just did a quick google to get the stats on that woofer and read that it was a DVC 2ohm.... I stand corrected.