I've read a boatload of posts here and believe this will be a new & valuable add to the forum. Punish me if I undersearched, but I promise I've invested many hours before posting this.
My car is a '90 325is with Stock Premium Sound.
So, the following describes the painful reality of trying for a LUKE BOX with a strut bar installed... The following quote is from a PM where I asked Luke, "Did you ever master one of your boxes with the 4" pvc pass through to allow for installing a Luke Box with rear strut brace?"
Luke's response:
[QUOTE]
...Anyway, no. It cannot fit. The guy who makes the Skid plates and I are working on getting something together, but the logistics of getting it to fit around the box AND be able to put the stupid thing in the car is kinda tough.
It is kinda one of those things where the box needs to go in first, but the strut brace does, too.
Oh yeah...we are talking about the 10" box, BTW. None of the thin woofers I have seen are the right shape to allow the tube through the box.
Luke
[END QUOTE]
And here's the latest post from Luke that is perfect for any e30 owner who wants an excellent sounding system that will play a wide variety of music with sound that is clear & loud, but does not require extensive fabrication AND does not rattle windows OR cost huge dollars.
[QUOTE]
Here is EXACTLY what to get:
1. Coustic "Crusher" US-CX10-04 sub from PartsExpress.com, but through Amazon: $36.90 or, from me, but then it is $55 because I get shitty deal on some stuff.
Terrific sounding cheap woofer, should last years and can handle more power than you are gonna have for right now. You can add a matching sub amp later and re-assign your 4 channel...but you will be amazed at what you get for now.
2. A Titanium Power 100.4 amp from me: $150 (unless Jean can get you that same amp deal he got...same amp as the Titanium Power, but he paid $100)
3. A ported 10" box from me: $185
Scrounge a set of FRONT and REAR (all goddamn 4, quit fucking around, its like $75 for all of them, uless some assbite is trying to screw you) Stock Premium Sound speakers. Try and find 4 front midranges, as they have seen less sun and will live longer. They are the same mid as the rear so they drop in.
You will also need a cheap 4ga amp kit and 3 sets of RCAs (total, if the kit comes with 1, add 2) and if you wanna shave that last $10 off your total, you could use 8GA.
Now here is how you will set this thing up: Front and sub powered by the amp, rear speakers powered by the deck. This will give you all the adjustability you will ever need, plenty of loud and EXCELLENT sound.
Your deck has excellent high and low pass filters, you can use them to make your car sound absolutely amazing if you do EXACTLY as I say.
Last detail? Get your buddy to score you a set of decent aftermarket crossovers. Anything with mylar caps, send me a pic of the circuit board and it will pass or fail.
So what have we spent here, $450 to $550 total? Your shit will fucking KILL 99% of the car stereos you have ever heard in your life, and likely sound far cleaner and more detailed. Plus, with a good effort, your trunk will look titties and your box will slip out in 10 minutes so you can go play racecars!
Keep me posted with what you wanna do.
Luke
[END QUOTE]
Entire thread resulting in above quote: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=160453&page=2
My question is:
If I'm unwilling to remove my strut brace, is there ANY alternate option to add some quality boom or should I simply bypass the stock amp and power the Stock Premium Sound with an upgraded amp and call it a day? I believe the 'optimal' setup for me is front 5.25" comps, rear Stock Premium Sounds, good HU, solid amp, crossovers and the famed Luke Box with a quality 10" sub... BUT what about all of the aforementioned setup with a bass source other than a Luke Box? Luke, I'll happily pay a premium for a "best Luke can do, better than anyone else's (because this owner is a dumb ass and wont remove his bar) alternate to the perfect, standard, ported Luke Box."
Whatchya think?
My car is a '90 325is with Stock Premium Sound.
So, the following describes the painful reality of trying for a LUKE BOX with a strut bar installed... The following quote is from a PM where I asked Luke, "Did you ever master one of your boxes with the 4" pvc pass through to allow for installing a Luke Box with rear strut brace?"
Luke's response:
[QUOTE]
...Anyway, no. It cannot fit. The guy who makes the Skid plates and I are working on getting something together, but the logistics of getting it to fit around the box AND be able to put the stupid thing in the car is kinda tough.
It is kinda one of those things where the box needs to go in first, but the strut brace does, too.
Oh yeah...we are talking about the 10" box, BTW. None of the thin woofers I have seen are the right shape to allow the tube through the box.
Luke
[END QUOTE]
And here's the latest post from Luke that is perfect for any e30 owner who wants an excellent sounding system that will play a wide variety of music with sound that is clear & loud, but does not require extensive fabrication AND does not rattle windows OR cost huge dollars.
[QUOTE]
Here is EXACTLY what to get:
1. Coustic "Crusher" US-CX10-04 sub from PartsExpress.com, but through Amazon: $36.90 or, from me, but then it is $55 because I get shitty deal on some stuff.
Terrific sounding cheap woofer, should last years and can handle more power than you are gonna have for right now. You can add a matching sub amp later and re-assign your 4 channel...but you will be amazed at what you get for now.
2. A Titanium Power 100.4 amp from me: $150 (unless Jean can get you that same amp deal he got...same amp as the Titanium Power, but he paid $100)
3. A ported 10" box from me: $185
Scrounge a set of FRONT and REAR (all goddamn 4, quit fucking around, its like $75 for all of them, uless some assbite is trying to screw you) Stock Premium Sound speakers. Try and find 4 front midranges, as they have seen less sun and will live longer. They are the same mid as the rear so they drop in.
You will also need a cheap 4ga amp kit and 3 sets of RCAs (total, if the kit comes with 1, add 2) and if you wanna shave that last $10 off your total, you could use 8GA.
Now here is how you will set this thing up: Front and sub powered by the amp, rear speakers powered by the deck. This will give you all the adjustability you will ever need, plenty of loud and EXCELLENT sound.
Your deck has excellent high and low pass filters, you can use them to make your car sound absolutely amazing if you do EXACTLY as I say.
Last detail? Get your buddy to score you a set of decent aftermarket crossovers. Anything with mylar caps, send me a pic of the circuit board and it will pass or fail.
So what have we spent here, $450 to $550 total? Your shit will fucking KILL 99% of the car stereos you have ever heard in your life, and likely sound far cleaner and more detailed. Plus, with a good effort, your trunk will look titties and your box will slip out in 10 minutes so you can go play racecars!
Keep me posted with what you wanna do.
Luke
[END QUOTE]
Entire thread resulting in above quote: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=160453&page=2
My question is:
If I'm unwilling to remove my strut brace, is there ANY alternate option to add some quality boom or should I simply bypass the stock amp and power the Stock Premium Sound with an upgraded amp and call it a day? I believe the 'optimal' setup for me is front 5.25" comps, rear Stock Premium Sounds, good HU, solid amp, crossovers and the famed Luke Box with a quality 10" sub... BUT what about all of the aforementioned setup with a bass source other than a Luke Box? Luke, I'll happily pay a premium for a "best Luke can do, better than anyone else's (because this owner is a dumb ass and wont remove his bar) alternate to the perfect, standard, ported Luke Box."
Whatchya think?
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