Stere-ere-ero is in! Thanks Luke! (Door mounted speaker content.)

[Morrison]

Here's my progress so far:

Silicone and liquid nails hold the lexan panels in place


It's a little hard to tell here but there are small lexan panels with fat mat applied to the back of them up top....I made them the exact profile of the opening and their thickness made it completely flat in that area.




Here's the driver's side after applying most of the mat that it received. The door panels have been cut out to the outer diameter of the 1/2" mdf mounting ring and test fits show that they will protrude no more than about 1/8" or less. I am going to hot glue a cloth covered 8" waffle grill to the door card that will conceal and protect them. The drivers are only 6 1/2" but the Boston grills are just too small to cover the ring.

[Blackout]

How does this sound since there is no enclosure?
Don't tell me that the door is the enclosure.

[reelizmpro]

It should be noted that the OP has a late car with the later style window regulators. If you have an earlier car, the regulator sits right where his speaker sits and you may have to go lower or perhaps you won't be able to mount a speaker there at all.

[Dozyproductions]

make fiberglass mold of the open spaces to seal the door up....not as resonant as metal, then cover with deadening^

or you can use some metal mesh to cover the wholes and put the deadening over that. It's way easier and still has some good results.

[jrobie79]

interested in pics, going to do this to my doors soon, was gonna go with the fiberglass method

[Morrison]

I actually stumbled across some 1/8" thick lexan at Farm 'N Fleet that has been extremely easy to work with so far. I paid about $14 for the amount I needed for both doors. Since its clear, I was able to hold up the material to the door and use a sharpie to trace the opening onto it. Most of the lower large opening is in the same plane except part of the window motor protrudes out slightly, so I cut out around that part. Mine is a 4 - door so the door looks lightly different but I'll try to take a picture tonight to show my progress.

[jrobie79]

make fiberglass mold of the open spaces to seal the door up....not as resonant as metal, then cover with deadening^

[Morrison]

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I'm doing something similar with my doors. I want to mount a baffle directly to the door metal though. Did you seal up the metal skin of the door with any sound deadening or anything?

There is a pretty large opening toward the bottom and I think I might just cover over it with some fatmat.

Speakers will be an old set of Boston RC61 6.5" components.

[SpyHunter]

All that work, and you don't even have the OEM tweeter setup? Come on man.

I am very sensitive to highs. In fact, the tweets that are in the JLs, are facing down and away from me, for that reason. Hurts my ears. I usually will dial the highs back on the head unit, as well. I am pleased that I don't have to as much as usual, with the tweets aimed away from me. Still crisp, just not ear bleeding. ;)

[topdown323]

spy, looks good with the mesh on there. that seals it for me, time to find some mesh for my clarions.

[rhett325i]

All that work, and you don't even have the OEM tweeter setup? Come on man.

[SpyHunter]

Not sure what you mean by, "sit flush against the baffle". As for the door cards, I first lined up the speaker on the door, sans card, to find where it would fit, and not hit anything. I adjusted that until I got it to the point where I would like its final location once mounted. Once that was done, I put the card back on loosely to figure out where on it, the speaker would go. Then I traced the speaker's outline onto the card. Once traced, I cut the card a little over 1/2" inside the traced line. I then remounted card, and traced the hole onto the metal of the door, for the final cutting. For the second door, I laid the first card onto the second and traced the hole. Then rinse and repeat on the second door.

The speakers, themselves, do not sit flush with the door card. I have a 1/2" spacer between, so that the speaker magnet clears the window while it is in the down position. Wouldn't have mattered if I mounted lower, still would have hit. Other speakers might not have this issue. All depends on mounting depth.

Yesterday, I ran by a local stereo place where I know some of the guys. Got a couple of speaker covers for the cost of two Monster energy drinks. Fair trade, I would say. A little thicker then I wanted, but the same style. Will definitely do the trick.





Overall, still very pleased with the setup. If you have the late model doors, and were thinking about doing this, go for it. I highly recommend. The amount, and range, of the mid bass is much better then before.

[jrobie79]

how did u cut out the door card? does it sit flush against the baffle? do you have any closeups of that detail? thanks

[george graves]

Black screws - yes.

[topdown323]

looks good. i did that in mine, but the speakers sit just above the map pocket.