Sub Options WITH strut bar

[rammstein]

So I finished installing my deck (I'll make a thread on that tonight with pics of the final product).

Everything is working great, and it looks a zillion times nicer that the old bling bling Sony thing. The problem is, the excitement is short lived when you have to set the high pass filter at 95Hz to keep the 5-1/4s from distorting. So, the subwoofer bug has bitten.

The Luke box is clearly the choice for 99% of everyone. BUT- it wouldn't really work for me because I plan to install a rear strut bar soon. I am going to be taking this car to many DEs and AutoXs, and I'd like to be able to pull out a sub easily.

My plan is to get some type of box, and mount a 4 channel amp directly on it. I'll bridge two channels for the sub, and send the other two to the fronts. Rears can get powered from the deck, if I even bother with them.

What I am envisioning is a box that would have some kind of gasket around the sub to seal it up to the ski-pass, and use clamps to mount it for a quick-release. Combine that with quick-disconnects on all the wiring, and I'd be able to get the equipment out in about a minute with no tools required.

From searching. I'm under the impression that a simple box in the trunk not connected to the interior will not get the job done, because it will provide nice bass everywhere but the cabin itself. Is this really true, or is it just 'less than ideal'?

I am not in any way looking for the system of the year, or the dB champion. I just want to hear the full range of music, which I am currently missing. Any thoughts boys?

[318Joe]

Sounds like a shorter version of a luke box to clear the strut bar.

Without the strut bar, the luke box fits all of your other needs. I have the amps mounted to the back of mine with power and speaker disconnects so the box can be removed easily. Not for autocrossing, just because. Fit is tight enough to stay put, but not too tight to get out. A couple of handles on the back on either side of the amp would make it real easy to remove quickly.

[der affe]

i built my own sealed box to clear the rear strut bar. there is a post in this section on it. orion colbalt DVC 12". the PO had already cut a hole in the rear deck for the janky box he made. mine fires directly into the hole. at some point i might seal it to the deck with a little extension and some foam tape for a gasket to see if i can get a little better base.

i am also running 1 5 chan alpine amp. i have an old PPI 2150 that i might ad as a dedicated base amp first too.

failing that, i will look into a LUKE box (maybe he will have one to clear the bar by then) or i will use his and just make a custom rear bar to clear it.

mine does not sound bad though and it gets the job done.

[E30Nova]

The front strut bar is a bent design, I don't see why someone can't make a rear bar that follows a similar shape that fits around a sub box.

Matt

[StereoInstaller1]

The front strut bar is a bent design, I don't see why someone can't make a rear bar that follows a similar shape that fits around a sub box.

Matt

oh dear god, SOMEONE do this! Eric (Raceskids) has even had a couple of my boxes, but I am supposed to send him one...but they all sell so damn quick!

[z31maniac]

Luke, is there anyway to make a freeair sub sound decent?

[rammstein]

The front strut bar is a bent design, I don't see why someone can't make a rear bar that follows a similar shape that fits around a sub box.

Matt

I assume that its because demand is light- not many people are dumb enough to try having a dual purpose car- most people with rear strut bars probably are driving gutted racers.

There was some guy who posted a free-air sub mounted on the ski-pass, and at least from an aesthetic standpoint it looked nice and clean. Plus it was held in with quick release clamps- pretty cool. I'll search for that.

[StereoInstaller1]

Luke, is there anyway to make a freeair sub sound decent?

Yeah, but the issue is the woofer. There aren't many woofers with specs that work in an infinite baffle setup. It is also hugely inefficient, so TONS of power are needed.

[White325is]

The front strut bar is a bent design, I don't see why someone can't make a rear bar that follows a similar shape that fits around a sub box.

Matt

EricT did this months ago. Maybe he will post pics..

[Matt-B]

I assume that its because demand is light- not many people are dumb enough to try having a dual purpose car- most people with rear strut bars probably are driving gutted racers.

There was some guy who posted a free-air sub mounted on the ski-pass, and at least from an aesthetic standpoint it looked nice and clean. Plus it was held in with quick release clamps- pretty cool. I'll search for that.

i have a rear strut bar, and my car is a DD and I have Dual 10" sub box back there. I Don't loose any real room, I never used before.

[F34R]

I assume that its because demand is light- not many people are dumb enough to try having a dual purpose car- most people with rear strut bars probably are driving gutted racers.

There was some guy who posted a free-air sub mounted on the ski-pass, and at least from an aesthetic standpoint it looked nice and clean. Plus it was held in with quick release clamps- pretty cool. I'll search for that.

I use a bungee cord on my strut bar. Works well to hold the box in place. AKA gutted racer.

[E30Nova]

oh dear god, SOMEONE do this! Eric (Raceskids) has even had a couple of my boxes, but I am supposed to send him one...but they all sell so damn quick!

I don't think I'm too far from Ireland Engineering. Maybe I could swing by and have them make a prototype bar? Wonder if they'd do it.

Matt

[der affe]

i was looking at mine today. if you were to make the bar similar to the mason front one in how it is like a cut away cup that goes down the side of the strut tower as well as the top you would have a solid base. from there you could have the bar offset and should not have any deflection issues.

you could easily go one step farther and use threaded ends and heim joints so that you could remove it easily. one more step farther and you could tab off of that bar to the floor in 2 spots and triangulate it on the diff like masons rear bar, but removable like a Nuespeed A-2 rear strut bar is.


hell, i might just do that!

Luke, what are the outside deminsions of your 12" and 10" boxes (length, height, & depth)?

[z31maniac]

Yeah, but the issue is the woofer. There aren't many woofers with specs that work in an infinite baffle setup. It is also hugely inefficient, so TONS of power are needed.

I'm guessing the woofers that can do it are $$$$$.

Just thinking it would save some weight and avoid strut brace issues.

[StereoInstaller1]

I'm guessing the woofers that can do it are $$$$$.

Just thinking it would save some weight and avoid strut brace issues.

No, not much. You can use a mighty cheap 10 in one of my boxes and get awesome bass in my boxes with as little as 100 watts RMS: smaller lighter amp, smaller lighter sub, plus if you expect decent SQ, mine will kill any IB setup.

Those silly enough to actually achieve the proper weight balance can actually use the box to do so, instead of a sheet of tar.